New to me 39-2 questions

HappyPlinker

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Hi there! I just recently adopted a new family member, and had a couple of questions I am hoping someone can answer. First, can anyone offer an approximate age? Serial# is A201xxx. Second, since the frame is aluminum should 9mm+P be avoided? Are standard defensive loads okay? One noticeable characteristic is a a lot of trigger travel in SA to get to the trigger breaking point. Is that common? Also, if you have any observations about quirks, things to watch out for, or "ya oughta knows" any info would be appreciated. I've yet to range test it, and have only dry fired it, but hopefully it'll get some use soon. Thank you in advance! HP20250630_211827.jpg
 
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My guess would be the middle of 1973 production date perhaps, but I would love to hear other guesses.

One thing you would be good to know is that if the safety is off/ready to fire, this pistol is NOT drop safe.
 
Second, since the frame is aluminum should 9mm+P be avoided? Are standard defensive loads okay?
The Illinois State Police fired plenty of +P ammo through theirs and they did not blow up. I'm sure that +P ammo will accelerate wear and given modern bullets like Federal's HST and Speer's Gold Dot, there really is no need for +P velocity to get these modern hollow point bullets to expand.
 
One noticeable characteristic is a a lot of trigger travel in SA to get to the trigger breaking point. Is that common?
With the hammer cocked, does the trigger flop back and forth? If so, then the flat spring on the top of the trigger is worn, bent, or broken. This does not affect function unless one of the ears on that spring breaks off and lodges against the trigger.
 
if you have any observations about quirks, things to watch out for, or "ya oughta knows" any info would be appreciated.
Yes, the extractor channel in the slide can, over time, become filled with oil and debris, which will prevent the extractor from holding a cartridge rim during extraction. Flushing out the channel with non-chlorinated brake cleaner is usually adequate maintenance for the extractor.

Watch the ejector, there is a sharp angle where the tip meets the body of the ejector. This area is known to crack and the ejector tip will be lost. Replacement ejectors/3rd gen ejectors have a radiused joint for better durability.

The aluminum frame rails and barrel cam blocks can wear and become battered, make sure you replace the recoil spring. The factory spring is 14 pounds and that is what you should use. Otherwise, a Wolff 14 pound recoil spring is what I would recommend. I would not run a spring in a 4 inch barrel, S&W 9mm pistol for more than 4000 rounds, even less if shooting +P ammo. Springs are cheap, replacement receivers are no longer available. I also lubricate the receiver rails and cam blocks in my S&W pistols with a small amount of white lithium grease. I feel that the light grease provides a little better protection and lubrication than oil.
 
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All the answers are great. I inherited a Mod 39 from my dad. I think his was purchased in the late 1960's. Some time after he bought. It the extractor broke and he sent it back for repair, and they replaced the slide so it's now a -2. It shoots very well, but I have a few friends with 39-2 that are not very accurate.
 
All the answers are great. I inherited a Mod 39 from my dad. I think his was purchased in the late 1960's. Some time after he bought. It the extractor broke and he sent it back for repair, and they replaced the slide so it's now a -2. It shoots very well, but I have a few friends with 39-2 that are not very accurate.
Interesting. Even with the adjustable sights they aren't accurate? Any conclusions as to why?
 
Yes, the extractor channel in the slide can, over time, become filled with oil and debris, which will prevent the extractor from holding a cartridge rim during extraction. Flushing out the channel with non-chlorinated brake cleaner is usually adequate maintenance for the extractor.

Watch the ejector, there is a sharp angle where the tip meets the body of the ejector. This area is known to crack and the ejector tip will be lost. Replacement ejectors/3rd gen ejectors have a radiused joint for better durability.

The aluminum frame rails and barrel cam blocks can wear and become battered, make sure you replace the recoil spring. The factory spring is 14 pounds and that is what you should use. Otherwise, a Wolff 14 pound recoil spring is what I would recommend. I would not run a spring in a 4 inch barrel, S&W 9mm pistol for more than 4000 rounds, even less if shooting +P ammo. Springs are cheap, replacement receivers are no longer available. I also lubricate the receiver rails and cam blocks in my S&W pistols with a small amount of white lithium grease. I feel that the light grease provides a little better protection and lubrication than oil.
I bought this from a lgs, so I don't know how much it was shot, although there's not much wear on it, maybe it makes sense to just get a new recoil spring? Thank you for the details, it's much appreciated.
 
With the hammer cocked, does the trigger flop back and forth? If so, then the flat spring on the top of the trigger is worn, bent, or broken. This does not affect function unless one of the ears on that spring breaks off and lodges against the trigger.
No, no flopping, just a lot of travel. When I get home from work, I will check the spring out.
 
Interesting. Even with the adjustable sights they aren't accurate? Any conclusions as to why?
Accuracy with the S&W pistols that had the removable barrel bushing was always spotty. Some were very accurate, most were combat accurate, and some were just plain bad. It's a combination of the fit of the bushing to the slide and the barrel to the bushing and how consistent the barrel locked up between the slide stop pin and the locking lugs in the slide. I once had a 39-2 that was not particularly accurate, but my current 439 is at least combat accurate, producing groups of 4-6" at 25 yards. It's groups definitely demonstrate a pattern of vertical stringing. Both were reliable when it came to feeding, firing, extraction, and ejection.
 
I pipe up on this issue from time to time.
There is no tactical or practical advantage to hammering your pistol with +P loads. There are excellent high performance standard pressure 9mm rounds that will get the job done effectively, while sparing wear & tear on the equipment, and being relatively easy on the shooter.
If you want more whack get a bigger more robust gun. Get a .40, or a 10mm. Plenty of whack, lots of commotion, quite snappy......if that is what you want.
Or, go with a nice fat, slow, old school .45 ACP. The state police here are carrying .45s these days. They have gone from .38 special to .357 magnum to .40 S&W, and then to ol' reliable .45. This has been a decades-long evolution......took 'em long enough, don'cha think?

S&W 39s are some of the best looking pistols ever made.
S&W 39 003.jpg
 
I pipe up on this issue from time to time.
There is no tactical or practical advantage to hammering your pistol with +P loads. There are excellent high performance standard pressure 9mm rounds that will get the job done effectively, while sparing wear & tear on the equipment, and being relatively easy on the shooter.
If you want more whack get a bigger more robust gun. Get a .40, or a 10mm. Plenty of whack, lots of commotion, quite snappy......if that is what you want.
Or, go with a nice fat, slow, old school .45 ACP. The state police here are carrying .45s these days. They have gone from .38 special to .357 magnum to .40 S&W, and then to ol' reliable .45. This has been a decades-long evolution......took 'em long enough, don'cha think?

S&W 39s are some of the best looking pistols ever made.
View attachment 775528
I have to agree 100%. Back in the 1980's to early 2000's, 9mm hollow points had to be pushed to +P and +P+ velocity to achieve reliable expansion. Modern bullets like Federal's HST and Speer's Gold Dot do not require anything more than standard pressure velocity to achieve the same terminal performance.
 
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