New to reloading, need help with powder measuring

Rex, Go back to Cabela's and ask them if they have any HP-38 or W231 (two names for the same product). This is one of my favorite powders and it will be easier to work with than Titegroup. It has been in good steady supply at my store.
There is nothing wrong with the dipper method but you must have a good scale to verify what you are throwing. Once you know what weight you are throwing, and can repeat that weight with every scoop, you are off to the races. 38 Special with 158 grain bullets is the perfect platform to learn reloading.

I have had good luck with many Lee products, frustration with some, disgust with others. The only Lee measure I have used was the Autodrum, which I despised. Some of the other measures get better reviews. I have their scale as well and I don't like it much either. One Lee product I will recommend is Lee's reloading manual. Read the entire first section before the load data. It is very informative and entertaining. The load data will also include dipper volumes and lists powders from many different manufacturers.
 
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Rex, Go back to Cabela's and ask them if they have any HP-38 or W231 (two names for the same product). This is one of my favorite powders and it will be easier to work with than Titegroup. It has been in good steady supply at my store.

Good suggestion here. TG is rather dense and a good bit more energetic for its weight, it seems.
these properties team up to work against the noob to some degree.
a few other powders one might consider include universal, unique, power pistol, CFE pistol, Bullseye, Green dot and a few other "good ole" powders from the days of yor.
they will be easier to work with within your current methods.
 
I replaced both the beam scale and the PPM with a RCBS Chargemaster 1500. Expensive, but an awesome scale/powder thrower.

Most pistol cartridges have a SAAMI maximum pressure well below what it takes to flatten a primer. By the time you see a flat primer you are way over.

That 1500 looks pretty neat. It costs about what my total equipment investment has been so far. I'll keep an eye out for a used one.

What I'd really like is a dispenser that will set up over my press and drop an accurate load through the expansion die.

By flattened primer, you mean one which has been fired, but the overpressure pops the dimple back out?

Advice appreciated!
 
As a reloader of 50yrs. experience I long ago went with an RCBS Little Dandy powder measure and use it exclusively for all of my handgun loading. To keep things simple the only powder I use for cast bullet shooting is Unique. When loading jacketed bullet hunting ammo my powder of choice is WW296 or it's ballistic twin H110.
 
TiteGroup is not "fussy". You use it just like you would any other powder. The only real difference with TG is that you use very small amounts as compared to many other powders. However, I also believe that when it comes to reloading, if you're not comfortable then don't do it. Remember it's NOT the powder that causes trouble, it's the people who use it improperly. Just like guns.
 
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TiteGroup is not "fussy". You use it just like you would any other powder. The only real difference with TG is that you use very small amounts as compared to many other powders. However, I also believe that when it comes to reloading, if you're not comfortable then don't do it. It's NOT the powder that causes trouble, it's the people who use it improperly. Just like guns.

Correct, Just because you might be able to stuff 5 charges of TG into the case doesn't make something like HP38 better. You'll still be able to get 4 charges of Bullseye or HP38 into a .38 Special into the case. Not really any practical difference until you're way past unsafe.

Just like buying a "better" scale isn't going to help make reloading easier if there is nothing wrong with the current scale.

Throwing more hardware at the issue isn't going to fix a software problem. For the OP I would recommend attending a reloading class or have someone with experience help to get acclimated to the reloading process.
 
By flattened primer, you mean one which has been fired, but the overpressure pops the dimple back out?

A flattened primer will still have the dimple. If you look closely, the circumference of the seated primer has a radius to it when compared to the pocket of the case.

When a primer flattens, the cup flows such that the radius disappears - if flows out and completely fills the pocket.

Another sign is if the primer craters. This happens when the primer cup flows into the bushing around the firing pin.

Usually this means the pressure is way too high. But not always. It can also indicate a gun problem. Or low pressure. Or your primer pockets are loose. Probably other things cause it too.
 
I have a full sealed can of TG. I wonder if Cabelas will exchange it?
I am sure they have a policy against it but these places often make exceptions. You might find use for the Titegroup later but I can't comment on that. I have no experience with that powder.
 
One thing I have always liked about TG is that I can get anywhere from about 1400 to almost 1700 rounds from a pound. During the powder shortage that was a really handy feature.
 
I used 3.5 grains of titegroup behind 158 gr lswc....I also use a digital powder measure, verify it with a second digital scale at the start of loading, and only put powder in one case at a time, seating and crimping the bullet before charging another case. I have only been reloading for a couple of years and slow is ok for me if it gives me the comfort of knowing that my loads are safe.

Here is where I got the load data.

Reloading Data Center | Hodgdon
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Rex, Cabela's wont allow returns on powder. Because it exposes to some serious liability if someone were to return a bottle of powder that was mixed by a reloader not paying attention. For example if someone were to dump Titegroup in a bottle labeled Unique you have a real potential for a very seriously exploded firearm. BTW, about once a year we will see a post by someone who put the wrong powder in an opened bottle and they will be asking what to do with that mixed powder. The consensus reply is always the same, use it for fertilizer in the garden.

Tip here is to keep just one single bottle of powder at your reloading station and that powder must ALWAYS be the powder you are loading with. In addition always empty your powder measure completely when you are finished loading for the day. If you adhere to these two rules you will pretty much eliminate any potential for mixing powders.

As for your desire to mount you powder measure to the Lee Powder Die, while it sounds very convenient it's really not much of a time saver and it will complicate your clean up at the end of the day. When I am loading handgun loads my procedure is to take it in stages.

Stage One is Prep cases, which means De-Prime, Size, Clean, Flare and Prime. This is usually a Saturday job when I can block out several hours because I like to keep Prepped cases on hand for spur of the moment reloading. BTW, I store my Prepped cases in 1 quart Ziplock Freezer Bags.

Stage Two is reloading prepped cases. That starts charging the empty cases with powder. For that I have a stack of trays from Federal 50 count 45 ACP cases. The slots are large enough to hold anything from 380 to 45 ACP. So each individual case gets slipped into a tray. When they are full I start lining up trays on the reloading bench. The nice thing about doing this is that you can line all the trays up and do a visual check to insure the charges are all even. Note if you do the same you will be able to use that pound of Titegroup because the danger with Titegroup is double charge, something that is very easy to spot if you have all of the charged cases lined up for inspection.

Once I have a batch of cases all charge I can then proceed with pressing in the bullets and then do all the crimping. BTW I Press and Crimp in separate operations for a reason. Because every single time I've tried B to combine these to operations into Seat & Crimp an the same time I have ALWAYS found a ring of either jacketing or lead at the leading edge of each case. Because if the crimp is formed while the bullet is moving deeper into the case it will dig in and shave some of the bullet off. Those who don't believe this are welcome to take a 30X loupe and LOOK.

Note, those trays I use are too tall for the 380 cases and borderline for 9mm. In those cases I'll use a handy pair of tweezers for handling the short stuff. Also do not drop the charged cases into the pockets in the trays, if you do you will see spilled powder in your trays.
 
Not sure what the worry over using Titegroup is with some reloaders, but I find it a great powder for several calibers. It's about all I use in 32ACP and 380 and recently started loading 32H&R and 32 S&W Long with it and so far it's working out great. I even use it in 500 Magnum and haven't blown off my face yet.
 
Would like to ask the OP, exactly what have you bought so far for reloading?

If I focus on the original question, which is more or less how do you measure a powder charge, I can think of several answers, but they all kind of depend on what he has, defining what he may want to buy, and if he has a budget for this project.

He would not be the first person who was starting out didn't make the best of choices on what to get, but we all live and learn. I was lucky enough to have a father who reloaded, got to learn on his equipment, and from his early mistakes.
 
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Rex - I'm very late to the show here, but here goes: I have used an RCBS Little Dandy powder measure for years - with zero problems and great success. I can almost guarantee you that it will drop powder much more consistently than the Lee dippers. The measure itself is $50-ish and the rotors are $15-ish. RCBS publishes a chart for rotor-size to powder weight which I have found to be within 1-2 tenths of a grain - although I don't use Titegroup. This said, I know the cognoscenti here are going to chastise me immediately for various reasons - lots of folks don't trust the Little Dandy. One problem is that you will have reduced consistency with larger flake powders. I solved that possible problem using fine-grained powders like AA7 and Power Pistol. I had another range trip today with some .45, 9-mil and .380 all loaded using mine. I feel very comfortable with the LD since I know Rotor X will throw X.X grains of powder, every time. Like others have mentioned, of course I double and triple check each tray of charged cases, with a small flashlight, for powder consistency. Zero problems and I still have all of my fingers!
 
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