lugnut3537
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Does it need to be resized? I am assuming it does. It is .223 and .45 acp if that matters at all.I have always reloaded once fired brass. Thanks.
New unprimed brass
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lugnut3537
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Does it need to be resized? I am assuming it does. It is .223 and .45 acp if that matters at all.I have always reloaded once fired brass. Thanks.
jjones33
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Yes.
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yep.....sure does
Yup, sure does.
So:
Three out of four reloading doctors recommend resizing new brass. This er, hack has read many posts that thought it unnecessary, but, he has also read posts about the occasional bad batch of new brass that had to be sent back. Resizing new brass is a simple way to start your reloads with a safety first outlook.
1x2
Three out of four reloading doctors recommend resizing new brass. This er, hack has read many posts that thought it unnecessary, but, he has also read posts about the occasional bad batch of new brass that had to be sent back. Resizing new brass is a simple way to start your reloads with a safety first outlook.
1x2
gregintenn
Member
Size ALL brass.
FrankD45
Absent Comrade
When loading for a gas gun (5.56/223) I size all brass and trim it as well. I try to make my loads as uniform as possible to avoid problems.
I hope that helps,
Frank
I hope that helps,
Frank
BUFF
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
It takes an extremely accurate rifle to benefit from uniforming primer pockets, deburring flash holes, neck turning and all that other stuff. Benchresters do it, but they measure their groups in hundredths of an inch, not in inches. Even most good varmint rifles won't notice the difference. I have never heard of a handgun demonstrating that it helps.
New brass, I resize it full length, chamfer and deburr case mouth and measure some for length. If they vary much, I'll trim the batch for uniformity unless they are already under trim-to length, or not uniform. Then I inspect them really well. Sometimes they slip through with no flash hole or something.
Uniform case length is important especially if you are going to crimp the case mouths into the bullets. Uneven lengths will vary the amount of crimp applied.
I trust my handloads, assembled in once-fired brass, to be more reliable and dependable than factory ammo. Having been shot once "proofs" the brass cases, letting you know if they have flaws or not.
New brass, I resize it full length, chamfer and deburr case mouth and measure some for length. If they vary much, I'll trim the batch for uniformity unless they are already under trim-to length, or not uniform. Then I inspect them really well. Sometimes they slip through with no flash hole or something.
Uniform case length is important especially if you are going to crimp the case mouths into the bullets. Uneven lengths will vary the amount of crimp applied.
I trust my handloads, assembled in once-fired brass, to be more reliable and dependable than factory ammo. Having been shot once "proofs" the brass cases, letting you know if they have flaws or not.
VAdoublegunner
Member
I generally resize new brass for everything, EXCEPT for 25-20 and 38-40 (and would probably do the same with 32-20 & 44-40 if I had them). Shoulder dimensions seem to vary for those in different chambers and the brass is fairly thin and soft in the neck area. I find it best to use those as they come from the factory, providing the case mouth is square. After it fireforms to your gun, you can necksize and just lightly set the shoulder back to improve case life. Both cartridges are somewhat esoteric these days, and right much of a pain to handload. But they are fun if you have vintage, or even modern, guns to shoot them in!
Yes, resize it, and also measure the length. Especially if you are roll crimping revolver loads. I just loaded a 100 bag of new .44 Special brass, (Winchester), and one case was .007" shorter. I had trimmed all to minimum length for consistent crimp, and this load came out having practically no crimp at all. Not the best for accuracy!!
