No. 2 cleanup

[MHF]

I recently got this No 2 off GB. pulled the grips just to check it out and found some gunk, rust, and a cracked grip. I used a copper brush to remove the rust and a Ballistol Multi-purpose wipe to protect the steel. Is there anything i can do to the cracked grip? Thanks

 

[Inusuit]

Seems I read a post on your problem, but I can't remember where.

Some have used thin super glue that will wick into the crack and stabilize it. Get advice from someone smarter than me before you try it.

 

[Patbar]

I confirm that super glue is the best solution.

 

[Breakaway500]

And I was expecting to see pictures of a new puppy...

 

[MHF]

New puppy

 

[glowe]

It looks like the stocks have been coated with something, maybe shellac or lacquer, given the shiny sealed inside you show. Original stocks were left bare on the inside. Post a few pictures of each stock, inside and outside. If the stocks have been refinished, I would be tempted to use a paint stripper to remove all the finish, let dry, repair the crack and refinish the exteriors only.

As for the crack, it appears that it is opened up on the inside, so the stock may be slightly warped?? Super Glue is OK, but if you strip them, let them dry, then you can perform a proper repair. You should not just pour glue in an open crack that is probably sealed with some type of finish. If already refinished, do it right by stripping, using a proper wood glue and clamping to close up the crack, then refinish.

 

[glowe]

MHF, I am curious what the Certificate of Authenticity states? If you can, add an image of it.

 

[MHF]

I would agree that the grips have been refinished, but As you can see .....

 

[MHF]

CoA

MHF, I am curious what the Certificate of Authenticity states? If you can, add an image of it.

Any comments?

 

[glowe]

Thanks for posting, but just as I suspected, inaccurate, incomplete, and the only claim of note is that it is not a reproduction. Also, they claim the nickel plating is original, but do not state why they know? Of particular note is the statement that "they began shipping the Model 2 just two months after the end of the Civil War"

Fact is that this revolver started production in 1861 and continued in production until 1874. Serial number range was 1-77,155. Guns with serial numbers under sn 35,000 are considered as Civil War period revolvers. Your revolver would have shipped around 1870.

I would recommend that you search for an "N" stamping on the butt-frame under the stocks, or maybe a "B". Nickel Model 2s are uncommon, so a factory letter might be worth the expense to properly document your revolver.

Lastly, if the gun already has refinished stocks, I would get them properly repaired and refinished. The "black" look is probably too many over-coats of stain and finish and if original, rosewood is a beautiful wood, worthy of showing off. Proper refinish of an improperly done set of stocks would improve appearance and add value in my opinion.

Oh, did I tell you I love Tip-Ups!

 

[MHF]

Thanks

Thanks Gary. Nice!
I'm reluctant to mess with the grips, but I understand where you are coming from. Should I start with something mild or go with something like Clean Strip? Also I'm sure the shellac is down in the crack. So carefull!

 

[glowe]

The problem starts with gluing the crack. It may have been there for decades from someone over-tightening the screw, but without strippping the old finish, especially out of the crack, gluing will add little to no strength. You might want to try stripping just the finish off the just the backside of the stock. Take a small brush and apply stripper to the backside and down in the crack. Let set for 10 minutes and scrub with a toothbrush. Repeat until all the finish is removed, being careful immediately wipe of any that gets on the other side of the stock. When dry, you should be able to glue the crack. Is the stock warped at all? If not, you can use gel Super Glue to complete fill the crack. After the glue is dry, lightly scrape the surface with a new box-cutter blade to flatten and smooth the filled crack and you are done.

If you do not want to refinish the stocks, the outside can be wiped down with mineral spirits, but will only clean off wax, oil and dirt.

 

[H Richard]

I usually put mine in straight Acetone, leave for a few hours or overnight, and clean off with an old toothbrush. This may or may not affect whatever had been put in the crack, but should open it up some to enable you to put glue inside the crack. It may take a couple soakings in the Acetone.

 

[glowe]

Acetone will work in many cases, but a can of stripeze is inexpensive, will last for years when doing stocks. I usually lay down a layer of Saran Wrap, pour the stripper on and set the stocks in it. Pour over the stocks and cover with more wrap for 15 minutes. Using rubber gloves, I take them out and brush them with a toothbrush, then wipe them dry with a cloth and sometimes use steel wool. Use a funnel and pour the stripper off the Saran Wrap back into the can. Can be reused many times.

 

[rta72]

Acetone dissolves vinyl/latex gloves in a heartbeat. Also made a hole on my thicker rubber gloves. Wonder if there is acetone proof gloves around? I bet the acetone on bare skin is not good on the long run.

 

[glowe]

About the only polymer that is resistant to acetone is polyropylene. They do make disposable PP gloves, but have not tried them.

 

[MHF]

No 2

Got the grips soaking in some Valspar Wood Cleaner. After 10 mins i can see the varnish coming off. I'll give it some more time. I could not fimd any marking on the butt of the pistol other than 09 or 60?

I have never lettered a S&W. Whats involved?

 

[first-model]

Why hasn't anyone suggested fixing these grips with hide glue?

I agree with the assessment that these grips were likely refinished (as others have said, the insides of these grips did not leave the factory with a finish on them), so it's probably best to strip them first. That will expose the naked wood grain in the crack.

Hide glue would be consistent with materials that were available in the 1860's, and it has the additional advantage of being soluble in the future.

Mike

 

[first-model]

And I agree 100% with Gary. This seller hasn't a clue what he's talking about. His timeline is way off. That "certificate" is not worth the paper it's printed on.

Mike

 

[glowe]

The 60 or 90 is an assembly number and will also show on the front of the cylinder and just ahead on the barrel assembly below the barrel as looking from the rear.

A factory letter is available by going to the following link:
Smith & Wesson Historical Foundation - Home Page - Insuring that the rich history of Smith & Wesson will continue for generations to come

As for hide glue, there is a reason why it is seldom used anymore. Over time the hide glue turns to glass, cracks, loses bond, and is a real pain to clean up. No need to be historically correct when trying to repair stocks, use the best product you can find.