NOW I REMEMBER WHY I HATE WORKING WITH ALUMINUM!

[steelslaver]

I always laugh when people think a little bit of something added isn't "magic". .18% of carbon turns iron into steel. .8% and it becomes tool steel. Now toss in .8% chrome, just .2% molybdenum and .7% manganese and its chrome moly. "Magic steel" Hey, its 97.5% just plain old iron how could there be any 'magic" Might just as well use plain old iron in that revolver cylinder, won't make a bit of difference. A table spoon of good dish soap in 4 gallons of water and it cuts grease way better. Sometimes it might not take much of something to make a major improvement. Tap magic may well be 99% kerosene, but just 1% of something else could cause a big effect in some of its properties. Just go check out motor oil. Might as well just use plain old oil and those additives don't do anything. Right? Go run gas engine oil in your diesel or visa versa and let me know how those little bit of magic additives did nothing.

Yes, there are a lot of snake oils in the world. But, that doesn't mean they all are.

 

[1morethan8]

you're not just whistling Dixie! so what was your secret, diamond tipped drill bit??

Drill bit used was a standard HS machine drill bit.. I don't remember the make, but I'm sure it wasn't China Made!

This is a video where I showed how to drill 1/2" holes in Grade 5, .071 titanium sheet metal to be used as a metal detecting beach scoop. Guys on the metal detecting board said it couldn't be done using a $75 drill press and no coolant...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt8TSS6P3jc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt8TSS6P3jc[/ame]

 

[Rule3]

I always laugh when people think a little bit of something added isn't "magic". .18% of carbon turns iron into steel. .8% and it becomes tool steel. Now toss in .8% chrome, just .2% molybdenum and .7% manganese and its chrome moly. "Magic steel" Hey, its 97.5% just plain old iron how could there be any 'magic" Might just as well use plain old iron in that revolver cylinder, won't make a bit of difference. A table spoon of good dish soap in 4 gallons of water and it cuts grease way better. Sometimes it might not take much of something to make a major improvement. Tap magic may well be 99% kerosene, but just 1% of something else could cause a big effect in some of its properties. Just go check out motor oil. Might as well just use plain old oil and those additives don't do anything. Right? Go run gas engine oil in your diesel or visa versa and let me know how those little bit of magic additives did nothing.

Yes, there are a lot of snake oils in the world. But, that doesn't mean they all are.

It's just a tad different when the properties and percentages are KNOWN and constant.It's science and verified. When some countries sell inferior metals used in high stress projects what happens? How about Chinese Drywall? They tested it AFTER the fact.

When products are touted and ingredients are "proprietary" and unknown but words like molecular bonding and synergistic actions, well then it is a bit of Magic.

But as wilth Gun Oil, Car Oil or whatever use what floats your boat.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

I think you mean Zinc.

No you wash your hands in the zink and then use the hosepipe to wrench them off

 

[NYlakesider]

No you wash your hands in the zink and then use the hosepipe to wrench them off

Thank you for clarifying that!

 

[NYlakesider]

It's just a tad different when the properties and percentages are KNOWN and constant.It's science and verified. When some countries sell inferior metals used in high stress projects what happens? How about Chinese Drywall? They tested it AFTER the fact.

When products are touted and ingredients are "proprietary" and unknown but words like molecular bonding and synergistic actions, well then it is a bit of Magic.

But as wilth Gun Oil, Car Oil or whatever use what floats your boat.

Many times if you get your hands on a MSDS sheet you can find out a lot of so called proprietary info. A good chance it might scare you a bit!

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

We always said that Amal carburetors were nothing more than a metered leak. It was fitting when they were paired with Lucas electrics, the Prince of Darkness.

Don't be badmouthing Lucas. They are generally acknowledged as having invented intermittent windshield wipers.

 

[AKtinman]

If you need to file aluminum, it is a lot easier with a file designed for aluminum. The teeth are different from a regular file and there is less clogging. Of course the alloy you are working with makes a difference, as discussed above.

Aluminum Files - TM Technologies

PFERD Aluminum Files - Half Round for Aluminum

Nicholson makes some good ones.

 

[oink]

All very interesting. A couple of questions for you guys with smarts. I've done a little garage fabrication but I generally have no idea what I'm doing.

I've done some cutting with my small little low grade old Sears band saw. I was making a dash for my Wife's 09 Kawasaki Versys out of aluminum. I was told by somebody to lubricate the blade with candle wax, which is what I did. It did dull the blade but I got the project done. Then powdercoated it black with a HF kit. It actually came out looking pretty good. Just don't measure it with a micrometer. Whats the best blade lubricant for that purpose of cutting 1/8" and 1/4" aluminum?

I also cut a few pieces of threaded rod with it for another project. Tried going slow but it killed the blade quickly. I understand you need a real slow saw for steel. Lubricant?

Well I just picked up ($20 yard sale but I did have to replace tires) an old (1988) Ohio Forge 14" Pro series Taiwan 3 speed. (700-1230-2420 by belt pulley) 3/4HP. I assume for any medal slowest is best. So set at 700. What metals and gauge do you suppose it's capable of cutting, assuming I can find the proper blade (92.5") for metals? What lubricants? I wouldn't want to cause the blade to slip on the tires or degrade them.

Thanks for your time. I really am ignorant on this stuff.

 

[ACORN]

Don't be badmouthing Lucas. They are generally acknowledged as having invented intermittent windshield wipers.

Reminded me of the old joke

Why do the British drink warm beer?

Because Lucas makes refrigerators too.

 

[steelslaver]

All very interesting. A couple of questions for you guys with smarts. I've done a little garage fabrication but I generally have no idea what I'm doing.

I've done some cutting with my small little low grade old Sears band saw. I was making a dash for my Wife's 09 Kawasaki Versys out of aluminum. I was told by somebody to lubricate the blade with candle wax, which is what I did. It did dull the blade but I got the project done. Then powdercoated it black with a HF kit. It actually came out looking pretty good. Just don't measure it with a micrometer. Whats the best blade lubricant for that purpose of cutting 1/8" and 1/4" aluminum?

I also cut a few pieces of threaded rod with it for another project. Tried going slow but it killed the blade quickly. I understand you need a real slow saw for steel. Lubricant?

Well I just picked up ($20 yard sale but I did have to replace tires) an old (1988) Ohio Forge 14" Pro series Taiwan 3 speed. (700-1230-2420 by belt pulley) 3/4HP. I assume for any medal slowest is best. So set at 700. What metals and gauge do you suppose it's capable of cutting, assuming I can find the proper blade (92.5") for metals? What lubricants? I wouldn't want to cause the blade to slip on the tires or degrade them.

Thanks for your time. I really am ignorant on this stuff.

For cutting metal usually the thinner the metal the more teeth per inch and as you go thicker the fewer the teeth. On metal cutting blades you need quality blades. Most of the time cheap equals a short life span, especially on anything other than dead mild steel. But even thin mild steel your blade speed should be down around 200-250. Look at you saw and see if you can change some pulleys of if the motor is a 3400 rpm you could change it to a 1700rmp of the same HP. Or if it is a 110 motor under 1hp you could change it to a 3ph motor and wire in a VFD. Variable speed drives are available that change 110 to 220 3ph and allow you to control the motors speed by varying the cycles. Above 1hp you need to go to a 220 3ph motor and a 220 VFD. More expensive. But, you can find 110 to 220 Vfds for a bit over $100 and 220 2HP units for a bit over $200. I run them on my mill, lathe, belt grinders, my drill press and a saw. I don't remember the last time I changed the belt position on a stepped pulley machine. You can set the VFD up so speed is controlled by a variable resistor. The VFD has a display that tells you the cycles it is set for. 3 PH motors can often be found cheaper than single ph motors

 

[steelslaver]

BTW, I do a lot of my metal cutting with a portaband. I mounted one of mine in a stand that makes it into a small vertical bench top unit. I made mine but they are commercially available.

 

[Protocall_Design]

For any metal cutting, you want a bi metal, variable pitch tooth blade. Finest teeth you can get for sheet metal, coarser teeth as you go to thicker materials, coarser teeth for wood, plastic, and soft metals like alum. Run it slow like steelslaver says. Too fast will burn up any blade when cutting metal. Fast blade speed is for wood and some plastics. Do not try to cut any bolts or other hard steel. You will trash the blade in 3 seconds.

 

[oink]

OK, thanks guys. I'm going to have to go back and reread Steelslaver's post a few more times to see if I can understand enough. I am disappointed though. I was hoping the 700 spd was slow enough.
The saw does also say:
VAC 115/230
Amps 10/5
Hz 60
HP 3/4

I don't see the motor RPM anywhere.

Thanks

 

[Protocall_Design]

Blade speed is usually stated as feet per minute (fpm), rather than revolutions per minute (rpm). By the speeds it sounds like your bandsaw is designed for wood.

 

[steelslaver]

Look on the motor for it's rpm, but even if it is 3400 and you replace it with a 1700 you would still be to fast for steel. Look for a TECO VFD abd a 3/4 ir 1 how 3 oh b motor with same shaft size and mounting. With that you could make motor crawl or zoom.

 

[steelslaver]

Just looked on eBay. TECO VFD 1 how 110 to 220 about $150, lots of 3 pH 1hp motor for $100 up. Not hard to wire if you can follow instructions

 

[oink]

Where would I find such an animal? Unfortunately that reads a bit like Greek to me. I have a Myles Electric where I get my well pumps and stuff but they aren't at all cheap. Good quality stuff though I believe.