Oh, ouch! my pride and joy

[LL617]

Just finished cleaning my pride and joy--the 617 my spouse gave me for Valentines. As I cleaned her up, I got an unpleasant surprise.

Usually at the range I shoot between 50-60 rounds with this revolver when I go out to shoot. Last time I fired 100 rounds or so using ammo I bought at the range. The 617 was particularly dirty when I finished, but what I didn't realize until I finished cleaning the revolver was that I now have a distinct grove above the forcing cone on the top strap and a little bit of slag below the forcing cone.

I think I'll be calling S& W.

 

[JAFO]

22's are just are dirty that way. unless its spitting lead its just normal

 

[murphydog]

This is a normal finding in any S & W revolver that has been fired to any extent. Part of it may be caked-on crud and you could see if it comes off with scrubbing, but if not no worries.

 

[Iggy]

Sounds like typical dirty .22 ammo to me.

 

[Sprefix]

Dental pick and patience grasshopper!!! .22's aren't exactly known for wearing out, even at the "brisk rate" you are shooting ammo. If the .22 ammo really was erroding the steel on your revolver, you would have some VERY soft steel. I'll run 100-300 rounds a range trip through several of my semi's. My M48 with lr cylinder gets used way more than that. Get a pick and your worries will be gone with some careful picking at the lead buildup. Then you can go lead it up again.....

 

[Agent Smith]

Crud Removal

I shot my 617 all the time and this just what happens, how I get it off of mine is witha little scrapper I made using an aluminum exato knife handle and a short brass shim in the blade slot (cut out of a old cassing).

A poster sugested using a dental pick, I would stay away from that idea as these are made of surgical steel and would scratch your finish, however the brass shim will not.

Just my two cents to this conversation.

 

[Imaposer]

I shot my 617 all the time and this just what happens, how I get it off of mine is witha little scrapper I made using an aluminum exato knife handle and a short brass shim in the blade slot (cut out of a old cassing).

A poster sugested using a dental pick, I would stay away from that idea as these are made of surgical steel and would scratch your finish, however the brass shim will not.

Just my two cents to this conversation.

Hmmmm... I like your home made brass scraper idea. I think I even have an old exacto knife handle somewhere. And I KNOW that I have plenty of old brass for scraper blades.

 

[markeb]

I think I will try the brass scrapper too, on my 63. I have good success using a bit of fine brass wool wrapped around the end of a plastic cleaning pick with CLP.

 

[CWH44300]

You should not call the factory on this, its just dirtier because you shot it a little more then you normally do,you need to refine your cleaning techniques

 

[Old Corp]

I've used an old .30-06 case with a ~ 1/4" 'flap' of brass cut and pried out at an angle from the case mouth.
Large enough to be a good 'handle' and the scraper can't hurt much. Gets lead and crud off great.

 

[MichiganScott]

That's not a groove. It's lead and powder build up.

Like Old Corp, I fashioned a scraper from an old .30-06 case.

 

[LL617]

Wow! Thanks for the information.

I definitely will go for different ammo and will look around for old brass to make the tool. My brass brush didn't get it and while my gun cleaning kit came with a tool that looks just like a dental pick, I only use it sideways because I do not want to scratch the steel.

Do you all recommend a particular cleaner to help get the lead off?

Thanks again.

 

[jaymoore]

I used to shoot my old six shot 617 4" so much that the lead and carbon fouling would fill up most of the area between the barrel and frame. It was actually easier to clean at that point because the build up could be removed in large chunks. Shot that revolver hard, fast, and often, but it still times up well and is "gootantight"! Best money I ever spent on a firearm.

 

[H Richard]

When you begin to notice the lead build up on the leading edge of the cylinder from rubbing against the lead build-up on your top-strap, you need to clean it up. Won't hurt a thing as long as you keep it under control.

 

[ken158]

Calling the factory will only get you a "send it in" response.

 

[Three Tees]

FWIW, here's what I do to alleviate the lead build-up on the underside of the top strap above the forcing cone on my K/L frame-22s.

After cleaning the chambers and barrel thoroughly with Hoppe's #9 bore cleaning solvent (ensure chambers are empty first, of course), I take a cleaning patch, soak it in Hoppe's and fold it in half. I then draw the folded patch which has been soaked in the solvent through the gap between the top of the forcing cone and the underside of the top strap and let it sit there overnight with the solvent in constant contact with the crud I'm trying to remove. Next morning - voila! The lead and powder residue just melts away with a few strokes of a nylon bristle brush soaked in bore cleaning solvent. Any good brand of bore cleaning solvent works fine, BTW, so it doesn't have to be Hoppe's.

What you may notice is that there is a small hole above the forcing cone drilled through the top strap after the majority of the residue has been removed. This has the front mounting screw for the rear sight in it so it may take a little picking at it with a toothpick to remove all the crud that builds up in there from lots of firing of those "dirty little" .22 rounds.

As some of the other responders to this post have already stated, gas cutting of the top strap above the forcing cone is negligable when firing .22 LR rounds in these K/L-frame .22s. Firing hot loads from the centerfire cartridges, on the other hand, is another issue and gas cutting does occur and is related to the type and quantity of powder used as a propellent, bullet base design, number of rounds fired and a bunch of other factors not present with the rimfire cartridges.

Hope this helps.

 

[LL617]

I have some of the Hoppe's #9 so while I go looking for brass to make a scrapper, I will try soaking a patch and letting it sit over night.

Thank you.

 

[chief38]

If it is a Stainless Revolver all I routinely do is take a NEW (because it's a clean edge and no deformations) single edge razor blade and slowly push it in between the top strap and the forcing cone at a very acute angle. What this does is remove lead without scraping the metal. If you use an old blade it will scratch the under part of the top strap. I've been doing this for 35 years with NO adverse results or effects. It works quickly and efficiently. You can follow up with a toothbrush with your favorite solvent on it.

By the way, I have also used this method on blued guns but you might lightly scratch the bluing. If done at the acute angle I mentioned with a NEW blade, the scratching is so minimal it does not bother me, especially since I like to keep that area lead free and have not found a better method yet.

Chief38