Oil vs Grease and Lubrication Points Question

[PJO1425]

Gunslick on the rails, if you can still find any.

 

[Old Corp]

On centerfire auto pistols, a small amount of grease on slide rails, fore and aft.
I've used Tetra grease, Slide Glide Brian Enos' grease, 'Gun Butter', white lithium, and once even a little marine-grade axle grease (tiny amount).

And a too-large collection of most oils/lubes seen on the market, from Lucas to an old can of Sears Gun Oil, which is probably a collectors item.

 

[Doc1500]

NeverEnding answers and opinions to a never-ending thread.

 

[Qc Pistolero]

Grease being thicker will normally trap more residue than oil...but since we handgunners clean our gun after each use(don't we all?)the difference shouldn't matter.
I still own and shoot guns I bought in the early '70s and they still work fine. I'd say slickier than when new.And no,I don't clean my guns after each and every use.
We handgunners tend to overdo it(cleaning).But if you feel confortable with it,be my guest!

 

[Frank Black]

S&W manual shows one drop of oil on slide rails and top of barrel. But it seems there should be more lubrication (grease?) particularly on aluminum guns where barrel interacts with frame. And I have seen video suggesting lubrication of drawbar.

I have also seen argument that too much oil causes dirt accumulation and can cause problems.

So what is the consensus on Lubrication Points and lubricants?
And what are differences for Long Term Storage vs Daily Use?

Just curious: which 3rd Gen model(s) are you asking about lubricating?

 

[ACEd]

Just curious: which 3rd Gen model(s) are you asking about lubricating?

Any / all - from 5906 to 3953 to 6944. But my primary concern is the lower part of steel barrel where it interfaces with aluminum frame on the 39x3 and 69xx series. It seems like it should have some help with sliding. I am currently only using a drop of oil on rails and top of barrel per manual I have for 5906.

 

[Echo40]

Frog Lube is the devils snot! After a really good field test following the instructions to the letter, I would never use it again, especially on a gun that I might want to depend on to save my life. I tried it on several guns with the same result. One gun was a M&P 45. I thoroughly cleaned the gun and heated it before applying the lube. After heating the gun and wiping off all of the excess, I was pretty impressed. The gun felt dry but still had a lot of lubricity. Exactly what I was looking for as I wanted a dry finish that would not attract dust and dirt. It was great until I shot the gun. After about 5 rounds, the gun started to become sluggish and would not eject with any type of reliability. A gooey substance that looked like maple syrup started to seep out from around the trigger. I had this same experience with the other guns I used it on. I had to have my 22 target pistol detail stripped by a gunsmith it got so gummed up. I threw the remainder of the stuff in the trash. Use this **** at your own risk! Since this debacle, I started using MPro-7 cleaner and CLP. I was turned no to it by a friend who used it in Afghanistan and it works very well. There are no free lunches.

I have a theory that certain environmental conditions such as the climate (ambient temperature, humidity, etc) can adversely affect Frog Lube due to the fact that for some folks (such as myself) it works fantastic so long as the instructions are followed, yet for others such as yourself it doesn't work at all and turns into rubber cement regardless of how closely the instructions are followed.

I still use Frog Lube because the only problems I've ever had were my own fault for doubting the instructions, otherwise it works extremely well. However, I also really like Ballistol, save for the horrible smell, that is. Honestly, everytime I think that I'm getting used to the smell and that it isn't so bad, I end up using it again then being promptly reminded of just how foul that stuff smells fresh out of the can. Once Ballistol has settled it smells okay, but fresh out of the can it's like a decomposing skunk or something, just awful.

 

[SMSgt]

Neither my Glock 30 nor 6906 had any problem at all with Froglube. Many complain about the application process, but it's pretty much a one time deal. The problems come in when one doesn't trust it and goes with "the bigger the glob, the better the job." When it says wipe off excess--it means wipe off excess!

 

[jurek]

To properly lubricate S&W, just do this:

"One drop of oil on slide rails and top of barrel" ...as S&W manual says.

Oil vs. grease? Doesn't matter. Use whatever costs less. It will give the same result.
For a long time storage I'd suggest Eezox, which leaves long lasting coating on lubricated parts.
Too much oil for everyday carry or shooting is not good. Only 1911 likes more oil. All modern handguns can even run dry.

 

[chief38]

For Semi Auto's I use a drop of Breakfree CLP Oil on the Rails, Barrel and Pivot Points but I do not slather them.

 

[Ingramite]

This is some amazing stuff.

 

[wrkerr]

Was issued my badge and a model 10 in 1977. Our rangemaster supplied Hoppes No. 9 solvent, gun oil, and M1 rifle grease. His counsel was to "use oil if it revolves, grease if it slides". I have done this ever since and have never had a problem.

 

[hemiram]

I've used Break Free almost exclusively since 1977, and had no lube or rust issues. I put a couple of drops on the rails, rack the slide a few times, and wipe off the excess.

 

[Doc1500]

This is going to get good.

 

[Warren Sear]

I use a very, very thin smear of white lithium grease on frame and slide rails. I am a fan of the old axiom, "if it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it".

My car's pistons slide, yet they are lubricated by oil.

My car's wheel bearings rotate, yet they are lubricated with grease? Wut up wiff that?

I do not recall ever seeing a gun manufacturer reccomending grease anywhere on a gun. But, what would they know???

 

[stansdds]

My car's pistons slide, yet they are lubricated by oil.

My car's wheel bearings rotate, yet they are lubricated with grease? Wut up wiff that?

I do not recall ever seeing a gun manufacturer reccomending grease anywhere on a gun. But, what would they know???

I knew someone was going to ask that question, all I had to do was sit back and wait. You cannot grease the pistons in an engine, plain and simple. There is simply no way to keep grease on the pistons and piston rings.

Lubrication of the pistons is dependent upon oil being slung onto the cylinder walls by the rotating crankshaft assembly. This will provide just enough lubrication to prevent premature wear and failure, but it is not a perfect system. There is a reason that cylinder bores in internal combustion engines slowly grow in size, ultimately requiring overhaul and reboring the cylinders oversize and installing new pistons and rings. The friction between the rings and bore, even though it is lubricated with oil, slowly wear away the bore.

As for wheel bearings, grease is used because of temperature and viscosity. Oils, being much lower in viscosity and having a lower flash point would tend to smoke and leak past the seals. Also, there is no pressurization or recirculation system for oiling wheel bearings. Grease on these components is a more durable lubricant.

The U.S. military manual for the M1 Garand rifle specifies grease to be applied to the bolt and operating rod channel on the side of the receiver, so some firearms do include a grease specification.

 

[Doc1500]

CLEAN , OIL , SHOOT , REPEAT.
If you wear the pistol a lot and don't shoot it , wipe it down once a week. Or so.
Just "common sense ", not rocket science.