Parts for .22 HE 2nd Model

buff51

buff51

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I bought a decent looking 2nd Model .22 HE. The seller is giving me a partial rebate since I discovered the double action is not working. The double action sear on the hammer is pretty worn. It also needs an adjustable sight.

I know these are bound to be very hard-to-find parts, but this is the best place I know to look. Any help is appreciated.
 
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I assume you are referring to a K-22 HE, 2nd Model? There is also another earlier 22 HE, 2nd Model and that was called a Ladysmith. It sounds like you need a new hammer and a rear sight assembly. Both parts can be tough to find, but with just over 1,000 made, it is worth the hunt.
 
K22-40 hammer

Buff,

If you mean one of these for a pre-war K22-40 Masterpiece, I have one that's near new. See pic below. I might own the only one left in captivity. :-)
I picked it up as a spare for my K22-40, but I shoot it so rarely, unless I drop it and break the spur off, I can't see ever needing it.

If you mean for a 2nd Model M frame Ladysmith, I had a new one I got from Poppert's, but I recently traded it. Larry might have another. Look him up and send a message or call.

K22hammer.jpg
 
Parts occasionally show up on ebay. I have a 3rd model that wouldn't hold single action, also had the forcing cone blown out from someone shooting 22lr. I found a parts gun at a gun show for $100 and was able to fix both issues. When you say adjustable sight you mean this is a target model? Pictures please...
I wonder if parts from a 3rd issue would work ?
 
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Pictures

I presume this is a target model because it originally had the adjustable sight, but it has a short barrel. That is part of the reason I wanted it.
 

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Does the barrel match the frame serial number? I believe there is a possibility that the barrel with a forged front sight barrel is a replacement or an alteration?? The only target Ladysmiths I have seen had a target front sight, but not sure if any would have been made without it?
 
Gary, you are right. It's a hybrid. The frame and sideplate have SN 4779, whereas the barrel has SN 13531 B. Do you know what the "B" means?
 
The target frame is the interesting part, likely the barrel was changed to deal with a split forcing cone as so often happens with these. I have read that double-action is pretty fragile on those guns though I'm not sure why that is exactly. I did see a long target barrel for sale on one of the usual auction sites a few days back if you would rather have that configuration.
 
Yes, I'd be interested in that target barrel.

As for the double action, I believe the double-action sear on the hammer is worn, because the trigger does not pick it up unless I hold the hammer back just a hair. It occurs to me that this could also be caused by the rebound slide not holding the hammer back enough.
 
A couple suggestions. I would have the hammer sear rebuilt by a accomplished gunsmith and that would take care of the DA action issue. I think they wore simply because there was not much metal involved and the ledge on the hammer was both thin and very narrow.

Second, a nice trick to deal with the barrel that is on your gun is to have the front sight fitted with a taller target blade. It only involves grinding off the half moon and slotting the base to insert the sight held in place with a pin just like the long barrel versions. I think it would make a great looking short barreled target Ladysmith!
 
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Yes. Funny thing--the serial number on the barrel is 13531, but the frame and sideplate both have 4779 on them. Clearly, it is a 3rd model because of the shape of the grip, but the numbers on the frame are much too early.

I managed to fix the double action issue by cleaning the double action sear and polishing the bottom, where it connects with the trigger, then I stretched the spring a bit and made sure it was properly lubricated.
 
I suspect that you have a 2nd Model round butt frame with 3rd Model square butt stocks. The barrel is 3rd Model and that is why everything seems a bit weird. Glad you got the DA fixed.
 
No, it is definitely a square butt pistol. Look at the photos.
 
I guess I didn't comprehend what I was looking at. It's definitely a square butt. I'm with Gary; I would like to see the butt serial number as things just don't compute.
 
There is no number on the butt. Here is the gun with my first model.
 

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I also need a screw for the top of the sideplate next to the hammer.
 
Looks like the threaded portion of the screw is still in the hole? May need to be drilled out and the threads refreshed. I believe that the top screw is the same as that used on an I frame or K frame.
 
delcrossv said:
That's just weird. All of mine have a S/N on the butt.
Click to expand...

Yes, my First Model has the SN on the butt. Can you tell me if the number inside the sideplate is the same as what is on the butt?
 
I believe that the sideplate number is an assembly number that will match the numbers on the frame and the yoke. That number is different to what is supposed to be on the butt. Technically, it is not legal to own a modern post-1898 revolver that has had the serial number removed. There would have been a number on the butt when it left the factory. What number is on the rear of the cylinder? I believe that you might find 13,531 on the rear of the cylinder as well as on the barrel, so that is your serial number, not the one on the sideplate. So 13,531 could have been on the butt at one time making it a 3rd Model as already noted.
 
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There is no number on the cylinder. The assembly number on the crane does not match the number in the sideplate. There is no evidence that there was ever a serial number on the base of the grip, or that the grip has been modified in any way. A very strange gun. I'm glad I didn't pay too much for it.
 
Well, we are runniing out of places to find the serial number, but I can assure you that it did exist on the butt at one time and also whoever removed that one removed the the one on the cylinder as well.

If you can check the backside of the cylinder extractor star, you should find a serial number there as well.
 
I'm wondering if a s/n is stamped on the side of the grip frame ?
I have some oldsters that have a s/n there, but that's if the butt # is obscured with a lanyard loop.
 
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