Pinned barrels/Nickel finish

[OldW]

I have a couple of questions about cleaning an old revolver. Do any of you remove the pinned barrel to be able to clean the top strap more easily or completely? Is it worth doing, or is there any reason not to?

The next question (as you might have guessed) is about a nickel finish. I saw on another thread that there is debate on using Hoppe's #9 on nickel. I just got done using some on an old pistol, and it definitely took the powder residue off, but now it just doesn't shine the same. Maybe it's just me, or I didn't wipe it off enough. That being said, what is the best product to use to keep a nickel revolver shiny and looking new? Do I just need a soft cloth and elbow grease?

Thanks in advance.

 

[S+W Newbie]

Polish

I cant comment on Barrel removal. As to clean and shine on nickel. Flitz or Mothers Mag Wheel Polish will work wonders. Use a Micro-fiber cloth for best results. I hope this helps, show us the before and after pics if possible. Many thanks and good luck. John

 

[Texas Roots]

OldW, no it is not necessary nor advisable to remove the barrel for any reason other than for some major repair whatever that may be. But for routine maintenance and cleaning it is not desirable to remove it. I usually use a patch to clean in the area you speak of or sometimes a Q-tip works good in hard-to-clean areas.

You can use a product called Semichrome Polish to keep it looking nice and shiny on the outside after first cleaning off dirt and residue with a mild gun cleaner that does not contain ammonia.

I would also put a thin layer of light grease or wax under the grips to keep the metal from pitting.

For cleaning the bore and chambers, if you use Hoppe's #9 be sure to clean it all off after cleaning and run an oily patch through the bore and chambers. Don't leave the Hoppe's on without wipping it off. I don't much like to use Hoppe's on my Nickled guns but just use any gun cleaning product that does not contain ammonia. Ammonia may attack copper that could be present under the nickle but not all nickled surfaces have the copper underneath. I just take the conservative route and don't use Hoppe's.

Hope this helps.

 

[OldW]

Yes, I think i will find something besides Hoppe's from now on. I did wipe it off, including the barrel and cylinder, with either a rag, mop, or clean patch. I then did as you suggested and ran the oily patch through it. It just probably needs some more time with a rag to finish the outside.

If you don't use Hoppe's, what do you use? Thanks or all your help!!

 

[OldW]

Well, as it turns out, it just needed a little more time with an old t-shirt. It polished up just like new!! Y'all had me a little worried though, with all that doom and gloom about Hoppe's solvent. I was about to "you know what" a gold brick thinking I may have ruined a pistol I just got yesterday!

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Good for you, as you have found out the nickeled gun's are a pain to clean but worth it! There is no problem's useing Hoppe's on a S&W nickeled gun as they do not use a copper base plate like the Colt's, just wipe it off when done and apply a lube or wax.

 

[OldW]

Are you talking about lube or wax on the nickel itself, or just on the internals, i.e. barrel and chambers?

 

[Vulcan Bob]

I was refering to the nickel itself, I leave a thin film of CLP Breakfree on the nickel to resist oxidation but a lot of folk's use a wax on the nickel. Of course you want to run an oiled patch through the bore and chamber's and a bit of lube on the internal's as well.

 

[fyimo]

You can and in my opinion should use wax on the exterior of a nickel revolver and Johnsons floor wax works good as does Renaissance wax. I use Renaissance wax and a 200ML jar goes a long way but costs several times what Johnsons floor wax costs. If you have any light rubs in the nickel finish or light scratches Flitz rubbed lightly on them will clean them up.

 

[OldW]

Thanks guys. That is good info. I will have to invest in some decent wax. The shine on this pistol is just too nice to let it go.