Please help is this a frame crack????
- Thread starter romanson
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rjm6120
Member
Definitely appears to be tooling marks to me. No crack that I can see. I think you're good.
USBP SW
Member
Directly under the barrel, where it screws into the frame. The revolvers I have seen with cracks were possibly caused when they installed the barrel. The cracks ran from front to back, the entire frame below the barrel.
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Milling marks
That one horizontal line is a milling mark. That flat is normally not polished like the rest of the gun. The same type of marks can be seen on the grip frame under the grips. That area or flat is not normally visible so the factory doesn't bother polishing it.
Murph
That one horizontal line is a milling mark. That flat is normally not polished like the rest of the gun. The same type of marks can be seen on the grip frame under the grips. That area or flat is not normally visible so the factory doesn't bother polishing it.
Murph
To my eyes (The circled pics) look like machining marks?
Im not an expert but I dont think its serious or anything to worry about..
Is there any marks on the yoke (Opposite the marks on the frame) ?
but that would be a lot of force if someone had tried to close the cylinder with something that would cause marks like that
Lets see what more knowledgible members say...
Im not an expert but I dont think its serious or anything to worry about..
Is there any marks on the yoke (Opposite the marks on the frame) ?
but that would be a lot of force if someone had tried to close the cylinder with something that would cause marks like that
Lets see what more knowledgible members say...
ACORN
Member
Not a crack, relax.
No, there's nothing to worry about. Frames crack at the thin spot under the barrel. Forcing cones crack at the bottom of the back of the barrel, at the thin spot. You have neither.
This is what a frame crack looks like:
This is what a forcing cone crack looks like:
As others have mentioned, you're seeing machining marks. It's a non-issue.
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I thought you meant higher up directly underneath the forcing cone. I see no cracks where you have circled, only machining marks and that spot that must be a sloppy machining error. I agree with the others. Shoot and enjoy.
There are pads you can buy to remove the powder and carbon from the front of the cylinder or use a brass brush with a solvent ( more work and messy )
There are pads you can buy to remove the powder and carbon from the front of the cylinder or use a brass brush with a solvent ( more work and messy )
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Just a little sloppy machining; not a crack. Ugly spot not visible when cylinder closed. L frames are tough and not prone to cracking. Shoot the L frame and enjoy it!
J frames another story. J's sometimes crack at the 6 o'clock position under the forcing cone. K frames themselves don't often crack but the barrels may at the 6 o'clock position at the thinnest portion of the forcing cone. K are more likely to crack there if the cone is excessively radiused, likely by a gun hacker.
J frames another story. J's sometimes crack at the 6 o'clock position under the forcing cone. K frames themselves don't often crack but the barrels may at the 6 o'clock position at the thinnest portion of the forcing cone. K are more likely to crack there if the cone is excessively radiused, likely by a gun hacker.
A trick I learned a long time ago dealing with old military bolt actions was to dip it in gasoline, let it sit in the gas for a minute or two, then pull it out and closely observe the area in question while the gas evaporates. After all the surface gas residue has evaporated, gas will continue to bubble/fizz up from any crack or joint seam.
That's not a crack, a crack will have a sharp edge and not be rounded, reflecting light the way it does in your picture.
If you want to do an experiment, get something like a block of cheese or chocolate and snap it in half, and look at the edge where the two pieces snapped apart. You can then put the two halves back together and see what the crack that initially formed looks like.
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