Polished SS No thanks Need help

bronco45

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Purchased used a 3" 65. The previous owner had polished the stainless on this gun until it looks like nickel.

I don't like shiny guns but I do like the K Frame Smith in 3".

2 questions: How do I get the exterior of the weapon back to matt finish?

What about a spray on finish like Gun Kote in a dark gray or gun metal blue?

Appreciate the input.
 
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Purchased used a 3" 65. The previous owner had polished the stainless on this gun until it looks like nickel.

I don't like shiny guns but I do like the K Frame Smith in 3".

2 questions: How do I get the exterior of the weapon back to matt finish?

What about a spray on finish like Gun Kote in a dark gray or gun metal blue?

Appreciate the input.
 
Sceva: Several viable options here.

1. Which Scotchbrite? I hear maroon and green and white, I thought it was just for polishing out scrathes?

What do you think of powder coating?

I like blued guns but K Frame Blued guns are impossible to find in this neck of the woods, hence, the 65.

I've been looking at some of the coating and their are some nice colors in the grays and the non typical blues.
 
Scotchbright pads will polish the metal but not to a high shine. They leave the surface very close to how it came from the factory. It will make a stainless gun look new again. I use the 4x8 pads (I get them at work) and have used both maroon and grey ( one is very fine and one is ultra fine ) I would try the maroon first.

Some people like powder coating and I hear its durable but I don't care for the painted look myself.
 
Heck the bright stainless finishes are bringing premiums right now. Sell it and buy a dull one,pocket the extra $.
 
Strip it and sand blast it. If you can't do it yourself send it to Smith and have it bead blasted.
 
I'm considering sending it to SDM Fabricating for a gold bead front sight, bobbed hammer and a bead blast of the entire weapon.

Waiting for an email back from SDM.
 
Originally posted by Wayne M:
Strip it and sand blast it. If you can't do it yourself send it to Smith and have it bead blasted.

+1

Send it and get the sights and hammer done, but you sure as heck should sandblast it yourself. If you can COMPLETLY disassemble the gun then you can sandblast it (if you have a compressor).

Harbor Freight handheld, and some 320g glass, with a stripped gun and your there. Just don't blast the chambers, crown, throat, forcing cone,or star.(best you can anyway, corks are cheap).
 
You should use glass beads not sand to matte the finish. Be aware that in time it will develop a shine from holster wear. Any type of paint, epoxy or powder coat will wear off with use.
 
Pitdog02: K Frame guns in Idaho are like all older Smiths everywhere, hard to find. When retailers in Idaho order revolvers they always start with 44s and on occasion 45 Colts. Some 357s but they are usually Blackhawks.

If you want anything out of the run of the mill ordering mantra you must special order. When I ordered my 625JM and Model22TR the gun store owner said" Whats' That?" God forbid you order anything from the Performance Center.

ShovelWrench thanks for the info on the bead blast set up and operation. The 65 is going to SDM for the hammer bob and the gold bead sight installation.

Drail appreciate your help also. Idaho is cool in many ways but there is only one good gunsmith within a couple hundred miles but he only works on rifles, he does time and repair Colt revolvers but the last one I sent to him for a modifaction it was 9 months before he "got to it."

Always have much anxiety when weapons are sent away for work.
 
I would glass bead blast it or try some of the auto people who do soda blasting. The place where I retired from had the ideal system it was a liquid bead blast they called vapor hone or vapor blast it left a fine satin finish much smoother than sand blasting.
 
... The 65 is going to SDM for the hammer bob and the gold bead sight installation.

I have a 4" model 65 and a 3" barrel. I am seriously considering driving it over to SDM for the gold bead front sight and barrel install. When you get the gun back, please post pics and a review.
 
Any beadblasting needs to be done with equipment the has never blasted any ferrous metal. Most machineshops, auto refinishers, even hobbyists have blasted rusted metal. Any ferrous bits in the media will imbed in the surface and react later. Micro-fine particles will remain in every conceivable spot on the gun afterwards. Even working into areas link trigger pivot pins. As a former auto restoration machinist, I can tell you that lots of hot soapy water and disassembly is the only way to get it all. Brake cleaner, which is quite like gunscrubber did not remove the media from parts. And before everyone flames on me, I'll bet you could still find a little grit from your restoration unless you tore down the gun and cleaned thoroughly. That not to say that the professionals necessarily do a better job at this. But when manufactured the guns have not yet been assembled when blasted.
 
Originally posted by sar4937:
Any beadblasting needs to be done with equipment the has never blasted any ferrous metal. Most machineshops, auto refinishers, even hobbyists have blasted rusted metal. Any ferrous bits in the media will imbed in the surface and react later. Micro-fine particles will remain in every conceivable spot on the gun afterwards. Even working into areas link trigger pivot pins. As a former auto restoration machinist, I can tell you that lots of hot soapy water and disassembly is the only way to get it all. Brake cleaner, which is quite like gunscrubber did not remove the media from parts. And before everyone flames on me, I'll bet you could still find a little grit from your restoration unless you tore down the gun and cleaned thoroughly. That not to say that the professionals necessarily do a better job at this. But when manufactured the guns have not yet been assembled when blasted.

Believe this! I've done some automotive restoration and this is the absolute truth. Use clean media for your guns and srcub the heck out of them before reassembly.
 

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