Possible purchase Model 1926

DETROIT

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I'm looking at buying a 4" 44 special with a serial number that puts it around 1929 production. Now the #'s on the frame and cylinder match but the barrel shroud is blank. I believe the stamps on the frame indicate that the gun was worked by s&w in 71. Let's say the barrel was replaced with a correct era barrel and the revolver re-blued.

Would the revolver be worth his lowered price of 1300 shipped.
 

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... the #'s on the frame and cylinder match but the barrel shroud is blank...

Look closer. The S/N in the shroud is probably just in smaller font size than you're expecting. It should be in the small recess where the ejector rod tip lives. That's where it is on my Model of '26 in the 33000 serial range. And yes, it's difficult to see - even on a nickel finished gun. ;)

Mark
 
I'd pay that much for a nice 4" S&W in .44 that presented itself that well, especially since it isn't adorned with all that barber shop engraving and is blued instead of nickle. Factory reworked pieces have a certain presence to me, I like them and if not heavily used following rework usually are in very good condition internally, wear wise.
 
I must be missing something. I don't see any date stamp on the grip frame. Is there a star on the butt by the SN?

In today's pricing, I would guess that $1300 would be a fair price.

On the right side bottom there is a 7 1 B,
 
I'm with Muley Gil, not seeing the rework date stamps on the grip frame. What stocks are on it? From what I see it would already be home with me.

Non diamond magnas gold medallion, I have a set of silver magnas if I get it.
 
Look closer. The S/N in the shroud is probably just in smaller font size than you're expecting. It should be in the small recess where the ejector rod tip lives. That's where it is on my Model of '26 in the 33000 serial range. And yes, it's difficult to see - even on a nickel finished gun. ;)

Mark
Thank you, there might be a faint 3. But it is hard to tell from the pictures that he had sent me.
 
I don't see any obvious signs of reblueing. The studs and pins that should be proud, are proud. The sideplate seam is not wallowed out nor are the screw holes. Looks good to me. At that price, I might have jumped on it!

Kevin
 
I don't see any obvious signs of reblueing. The studs and pins that should be proud, are proud. The sideplate seam is not wallowed out nor are the screw holes. Looks good to me. At that price, I might have jumped on it!

Kevin
Not all are proud.
52eeb94bfeaabd76d0000b32502ed251.jpg


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Non diamond magnas gold medallion, I have a set of silver magnas if I get it.

Magnas or service grips? Magnas would look good but didn't show up until about 1935 so they wouldn't be correct for a 1929 gun. If it is a 1929 it might be tricky to know which grips would be correct. The non-medallion grips were used in the 1920s but I don't know exactly when those shifted to the silver medallions as are on my 1931 3rd Model. Not sure if a letter would tell you either.

Nice gun, I'd buy it at that price.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

https://flic.kr/p/2nPnSzF https://www.flickr.com/photos/194934231@N03/
https://flic.kr/p/2nPnxgE https://www.flickr.com/photos/194934231@N03/
 
The non-medallion grips were used in the 1920s but I don't know exactly when those shifted to the silver medallions as are on my 1931 3rd Model.

Based only on my observations from my database of over 2,000 listings for the .22/32 HFT's, the non medallion stocks were used for the whole decade of 1920-1930. I show a few fliers for gold or silver or even one hard rubber but believe them to be incorrectly added to the guns at a later date. FWIW
 
Well I bought it, should be shipped out tomorrow or Friday
 

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I'm pretty sure you will be happy with the gun, but I think it may be an older not that bad non-factory reblue, given the lack of factory date marks. Is that trigger blue? Hammer looks to be polished.
 
I'm pretty sure you will be happy with the gun, but I think it may be an older not that bad non-factory reblue, given the lack of factory date marks. Is that trigger blue? Hammer looks to be polished.


In some of the pics, the trigger and hammer look blue. I'll update once in hand.

For the re-blue the revolver is stamped 2 7 1 B.

Because of its age I will be getting it lettered. I'll know 100% once in hand. This will be my first 44 special!
 
Well you can't go wrong with that one.

Even though it's been re-blued and not bad, but not the quality by the factory. Although a post war factory re-blue would have that pin flattened, the 271 B is completely wrong for a factory rework mark. Possibly added by a former owner in an attempt to enhance the selling price.

The factory date stamp would be on the left side front 'toe' of the grip frame. The B for blue would be in a square or diamond (although refinish code stamps vary) on the left side 'heel' of the grip frame. And a star following the butt serial #. Even into the 1970's.

This one has two dates for two separate factory reworks:
grip%20frame%20legend_zps6jgwk0hn.jpg

Photo credit: Rick Bowles


The grips are factory and post 1968 with nickel plated brass medallions. They may look gold to the seller but only because they have been covered with shellac or some other wood finish.

I bet you find the barrel serial # once it arrives.
 
IIRC, there were S&W folks that would do restoration work on older S&W's and mark them in their own fashion to make sure that future owners would know that repairs had been done. I am fairly sure that David Chicoine employed this practice when he was doing this kind of work.

I don't recall what these specific markings were but that may be a possibility.
 
Look closer. The S/N in the shroud is probably just in smaller font size than you're expecting. It should be in the small recess where the ejector rod tip lives. That's where it is on my Model of '26 in the 33000 serial range. And yes, it's difficult to see - even on a nickel finished gun. ;)

Mark

I picked it up today, and the barrel is numbered to the gun!
 
I'm thinking this was a factory reblue, these are the stamps
 

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