powder coated bullets pt2

Powder coating has it's lovers and haters. I do it and like it started with the piglet method now just a dry shake and bake. Works can argue with that,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just and idea here, if you size and lube your bullets correctly you won't have leading issues. I have cast bullets from pure lead all the way to pure linotype and don't get leading. I push them upwards of 2,000fps. I will be trying some copper plating in the near future for higher velocity loads.
 
samdweezel105,

The coatings are CLEAN as in NO WAXY LUBE on you, your dies, equipment or

MELTING OUT IN HIGH AMBIENT AIR TEMPS. (Summer Trunk Temps)

Conventional Lubes SMOKE, the coatings HAVE LOW TO NO SMOKE.

Many ACTION PISTOL or COWBOY shooters are enjoying the LOW SMOKE deal.


CLEAN BARRELS are results from the coated bullets either the HI-TEK process or the POWDER COATING process.

Technology is moving on, beyond your present state projectile shooting.
 
Just and idea here, if you size and lube your bullets correctly you won't have leading issues. I have cast bullets from pure lead all the way to pure linotype and don't get leading. I push them upwards of 2,000fps. I will be trying some copper plating in the near future for higher velocity loads.

How's straight wheel weight lead up to 2500 fps with no gas checks, and only slight leading at this failure point of the powder coated 308.
I never got that high of a velocity with conventional lubes and checks.

Not much else to think about with wax, it's over and plated might be in trouble too.
 
I got my airsoft BBs, polypropylene tub, and powder.
I'm ready to give this a shot.
To me, it's worth it to be able to shoot cast WW boolits through a gas operated semiauto rifle without fouling the gas system.
Then there's the whole "soft lead HPs (Lyman Devastators) through a handgun at high velocities" thing.
I think I'll coat some HBWCs. And run them upside down with a felt wad under them. I want to see just how wide and flat they can get.
Guess I'll load them in .357 Mag cases at Mag velocities.
Giggles and grins, that's all. No other reason.

Question: Do I have to use the black Crosman BBs?
I bought non-black, generic airsoft BBs.
Will they work as well?

I'm ready to load my cast Lee .44 208 grain TL wadcutters to some .44 mag velocities.
 
word is, and rumor has it that what you have will work, however the crossman black seems to lead the pack in static generation.
One guy was starting to turn out some very promising results tumbling the bullets while hot.

Still, all roads lead to an ES gun.

I have a Lee 208 WC mold myself.
these things never did well above 1000 FPS. they start to tumble, which is an issue no coating can solve.
It will, however, make them a joy to load.
Some things beg to be pushed, others, not so much.
Wad Cutters ... not so much.

My lab, as it were, is branching off into two different directions.
Question one, is with the right coating and a good hard alloy, just how fast can we go? that'll be a rifle only experiment. No handgun can get to where the HF powder and WW lead combo made it to.
next question, is just how soft can we go while maintaining about a 1500 - 1600 FPS limit, without failure.
Soft lead anything at magnum levels will make for an expanding bullet HP or not.
If it can make it on merit of the coating ... that's a significant win.
fast production, as one would like in blasting ammo, with an upgrade and no real added expense.
 
I should never have opened this thread. Too many irons in fire already. I should never have opened this thread.

Welcome to the dark side. We have brownies.
We also have sex drugs and rock and roll, but we usually don't tell you that till you are here for a while.
 
Well once I recover from this darn "Blue press" bleeding me dry with caliber conversions. I will probably look into the PC thing a little more. Right now I am not having any leading issues with my 9mm or 45acp cast bullets traditionally sized on a LAM2 and lubed with Randy Rat's Tac1. Concern for leading is the main reason why I have not got into casting my rifle projectiles.
 
It's fairly straight forward.
If you have an air compressor, a coating gun can go from 60 to 100. The harbor freight powder is about 6 a pound. Add a toaster oven and you're set.
If you don't have the air compressor, go with the hi tek system, but get a little more spendy with the toaster oven, as it seems to be more temperature sensitive.
You'll shake off the Kool aid stains soon enough.
 
Just and idea here, if you size and lube your bullets correctly you won't have leading issues. I have cast bullets from pure lead all the way to pure linotype and don't get leading. I push them upwards of 2,000fps. I will be trying some copper plating in the near future for higher velocity loads.

Copper plated for rifle is strictly reduced loads only. I tried several of them and if you aren't using Red Dot, Unique, Trail Boss, 2400, or something similar then you will be pushing them beyond what the plating can stand. All the plated bullets I've seen are soft swaged bullets. The soft core inside the paper thin plating just can't handle much velecity.

Now change this into a harder alloy coated bullet and you can start to push them. I've quenched some #2 alloy after coating them and run them through an 8mm Mauser at jacketed velocity and there was ZERO leading which means the coating held up. I had terrible accuracy though so I'm thinking the bullet hardness just wasn't up to the task. Still though since it held together that tells me it's worth a little more time and effort.
 
I have pushed coated plain base over 2000 fps. Accuracy fell off just before 2000. Running them now at 1850 fps. This one bullet in one rifle.
 
Clor coated bullets for handguns

Hi guys,
I live in Germany and do a lot of shooting 9mm, .45Auto, .357 Magn. and .44 Magnum. I use reduced target loads and full house loads with the slow burners like N 110 or the classic 2400. Since about 2 years I only use ARES bullets. You can google for the name and will find the German importer. These bullet come in all kind of colors and the do perform perfect. Top scores, uniform speed and nearly no fowling left in the bore. I know that they are shipped to the USA, but I do not know by whom. The guy I buy from is the sole importer or the stuff made in Slowenia and he does IPSC shooting. He has shipped many thousands to your country. Have a look at the ARES website and you see what they have.
Rainer

P.S: If you need lighther bullets for the .357 they make the 9mm 125 grains bullet in .358 as well.
 
I have pushed coated plain base over 2000 fps. Accuracy fell off just before 2000. Running them now at 1850 fps. This one bullet in one rifle.

Not too shabby is it?
I made it to 2200 before it became useless.
Still pushed it to coating failure at 2500
This with the cheapest powder coating on the market.
Better stuff arrived today, I'll have to see where this stuff breaks.
I'm also going to run a harder alloy to see if I can keep some accuracy above the 2200 mark.
 
Copper plated for rifle is strictly reduced loads only. I tried several of them and if you aren't using Red Dot, Unique, Trail Boss, 2400, or something similar then you will be pushing them beyond what the plating can stand. All the plated bullets I've seen are soft swaged bullets. The soft core inside the paper thin plating just can't handle much velecity.

Now change this into a harder alloy coated bullet and you can start to push them. I've quenched some #2 alloy after coating them and run them through an 8mm Mauser at jacketed velocity and there was ZERO leading which means the coating held up. I had terrible accuracy though so I'm thinking the bullet hardness just wasn't up to the task. Still though since it held together that tells me it's worth a little more time and effort.


And don't forget that plating isn't nearly as domestic dwelling compatible as hi tek or powder coating.
There are also several types of coatings available.

Also, check your state laws pertaining to the use of Teflon.
Yes, it is out there begging to be used.
Yes, a few states have pitched a fit about it.
Fed level, with the help of the NRA, made an 11th hour switch to construction based legislation against AP bullets. So many can legally use Teflon powder coat.
I'm not sure how enforceable it is elsewhere, if at all. Some premium bullet offerings seem to ignore even the federal construction based legislation. So do proceed with due caution.

There is also nylon based coatings to play with.
I have not looked into any laws that may be in the way of resurrection of the old nyclad ammo.
 
I have some old lead based paint, will that work? :p

Ummm, no.

On a serious note, I tried some rather high end stuff in the past.
Why this works when Imron failed is beyond me.

But back to the fine art of screwing around.
I don't see any compatibility issues with using a lead based paint upon a like based object.
Who'd ever know? :D
 
I should never have opened this thread. Too many irons in fire already. I should never have opened this thread.

you're right-------You never should have opened this thread.

I feel your pain!

I have 8 different bullets (multiple calibers) that either I have extensive work ups or in the middle of or just starting. I've played with several powders, primers, etc. I have all my logs filled out - chrono data, pics of targets.

I was almost done:eek:

These guys forced me into trying bayou's 158 grain SWC's.

I haven't loaded or shot them yet - but those gator snots are just sitting there harassing me. I want to put them to the back of the line and let them wait their turn - - but NOOO - this topic won't go away - they'll be a Part 3 and a Part 4, etc
 
Back
Top