To the OP - you are wise to avoid unburned powder flakes. Unburned powder under the extractor can tie up a revolver.
My guns like Unique in heavy loads.
For my fiancee I load 158 grain Hornady XTP with 4.3 grains of Hogdon titegroup. Its a fast burning powder that works good with short barrel revolvers, less muzzle flash.
To the OP - you are wise to avoid unburned powder flakes. Unburned powder under the extractor can tie up a revolver.
Actually I have been applying a heavy taper crimp. Good enough, or no? I've had problems with excessive roll crimp leading to case bulge and difficulty chambering (when deliberately trying to see how far I could go). Taper crimping seems more forgiving. But is a good taper crimp as effective as a good (not excessive) roll crimp?
I don't think a taper crimp holds the bullet as well as a roll crimp. Like I said, I'm using 2400 in my .38's with zero problems, BUT I'm loading cast bullets that have a deep crimp groove. Are these jacketed bullets?
If it were me I'd seat those bullets to the very front of the cannelure and apply a good roll crimp. Nothing to lose by trying.
BTW it's difficult to convey how filthy this thing is running with 2400. The photo below show unburned powder on the frame (also all over then rug below, but difficult to see), and soot all over the crane and cylinder. The back of the cylinder is shiny only because of my fingers wiping it off while opening and closing.
This is after 100 rounds.....
I find that W231 works very well in just about any non-magnum revolver cartridge and burns very clean. Its my "go to" powder.![]()
There was a thread with a lot of good dat a for duplicating the old 158gr "FBI +P Load". IIRC the best results anybody got was with HS-6
A couple of days ago I picked up a pound of AA#5 and a box of Speer 125gr Gold Dot Hollow Points. The Speer reloading manual has a max load of 7.8gr for +P while the older AA data has a MINIMUM of 8.3 with a warning not to reduce any further? The current AA data has a variety of loads for different 125gr bullets with a curious split, as the min and max charges vary quite a bit with different bullets. The two highest show a max of 7.8 which mirrors the Speer data. The minimum 357 magnum loads with this same bullet and powder combination are all substantially higher. So I felt safe starting off with 7.8. I won't be able to try it until next week but will let you know how it turns out.
I did shoot a hundred rounds of my 2400 load last week, which rendered the gun filthy. It was accurate and recoil was authoritative leading me to believe that whoever was on the other end would definitely rue the day, but the gun and bench were sprinkled with unburned powder flakes. I have 150 more rounds of this stuff to get rid of and will never use that load again.
I actually bought eight pounds of 2400 last year because the reloading manual data indicated it was suitably flexible for downloading 357 and 44 to lower-than-max velocities. I have found that once the charge is reduced it no longer works effectively. I guess I can turn up the steam, but that's why I have eight pounds of WW296?
First world problems....
Power pistol if you have it on hand. I personally stray away from blue dot (blue dirt), it doesn't perform well until you get near max loads and its been very dirty to shoot for me.
I had the misfortune of using it as my first handgun powder and had all sorts of problems with it, I thought I was doing something wrong until I got up near my max loads.