Pre-27: Cylinder Latching Problem?

[mainegrw]

I have a very nice Pre-27 that has always had a stiff cylinder release, however today while shooting a mixture of 357 and 38 Special at the range, it seemed to get worse, almost to the point where the cylinder wouldn't release at all. In looking at the gun, when the the thumb piece is pushed forward, the bolt face is flush with the breachface, and it is definitely pushing the locking bolt clear of the end of the of the ejector rod, yet I cannot freely swing out the cylinder.

The only other thing I've thought to check was for crud under the extractor star, but even carefully wiping the surfaces, it doesn't make much of a difference.

Any thoughts as to what might be the hang-up, and/or what it might take to fix it?

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[R*E]

Your ejector rod is loose.

 

[Mrnurse]

The Old ejector Rod turning back trick.

 

[mainegrw]

Any suggestions on tightening it back up? I've never actually pulled the ejector rod out of a S&W revolver before,.so.not.really sure what the process is. I do know that some are left-hand thread, and others are right-hand...

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[walter o]

Yors should be a right hand thread if it is a pre 27.

 

[Walkingwolf]

Your ejector rod is loose.

What he said...

 

[nedlate]

Just to see if the ejector is loose you can open the cylinder, turn the ejector rod with your fingers, if loose it should turn freely.
Ed

 

[Muley Gil]

When you tighten it up, place some empty cartridges in the chambers. I like to pad vise jaws with leather and then put the rod in those jaws.

 

[mainegrw]

I went and checked last night, and indeed I could turn it by hand. I hand tightened it back up for now, before I go ahead and torque it back down, I'm going to clean and lubricate the rod and its through hole. I figured I might as well.

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[Hondo44]

Clean it but don't oil the threads, they don't move once tightened so they don't need lubrication. It will only induce loosening again.

For future reference, if it loosens again to the point of sticking closed, don't force it open. That risks bending the thin locking pin.

Cock the hammer just far enough to drop the cyl stop bolt, place a credit card between the cyl and bottom of frame window blocking the cyl stop from popping up, then drop the hammer. Now you can turn the cyl while pinching the checkered portion of the extractor rod to keep it from turning. Turn the cyl to screw the rod in enough to open the cyl w/o forcing it. Now once open you can tighten the rod in a padded vice by turning the cyl which gives you better leverage; with empty cases in the chambers to protect the extractor star from twisting.

 

[Mrnurse]

Look Dont screw it up.... for 25.00 buy a Tool from Brownells/ midway/etc...its a round alum device with a allen... you clamp it to the shaft and tighten to 4 ft/Lbs or till GUTENTIGHT DO NOT use lock tight etc.... you can unthread it.... clean with Alk, tighten it up...ive seen Bone heads use vice grips on the shaft ( 4 inch early 29.... I kept my mouth shut...never disturb a Fool).