Pre K38 finish question
- Thread starter danmd777
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It probably shipped in 1950, so the satin finish is normal.
First, it should have five screws at that serial number. The fourth and fifth screws are in the front of the trigger guard and high on the sideplate, respectively.
Also, it isn't a "pre K-38." It is a K-38 Masterpiece. You could call it a "pre-Model 14" if you are so inclined. Model numbers first appeared in 1958.
First, it should have five screws at that serial number. The fourth and fifth screws are in the front of the trigger guard and high on the sideplate, respectively.
Also, it isn't a "pre K-38." It is a K-38 Masterpiece. You could call it a "pre-Model 14" if you are so inclined. Model numbers first appeared in 1958.
In the for what it's worth category, the explanation for the Satin Blue finish (also known as the funky finish) goes like this----possibly an "Old wive's tale", but with elements of truth: The polishers are regarded as the most skilled of all the production employees---and it takes a loooooooooooong time to develop those skills. Skilled employees are in short supply following WWII. What to do?!!
Develop a finishing process which does not require polishing, and use it until such time as the neophyte polishing folks get up to speed. Right about here is where I start running my mouth without knowing what I'm talking about---that being the facts of the matter. I'm told the preparation process for the funky finish requires no polishing---that it's accomplished by blasting with an unknown media---I've heard crushed walnut shells. (I know they do a first class job of stripping paint from metal, but that's all I know.) At any rate, the Bright Blue finish (which requires EXPERT polishing) was in short supply at the time----and for a time following WWII.
And I hope you won't call it a "pre" anything! I've always considered the folks using such lingo do so because they don't know the proper name of the predecessor----and don't wish to display their ignorance.
Ralph Tremaine
As an aside, the polishing of a S&W (hand ejector) revolver is more than a difficult task because of all the varying surfaces. Have a look---count 'em---and then compare them to any other maker's product. Dealing with those many surfaces was accomplished with the use of hard leather formed polishing wheels---Walrus hide, so I've been told, one each for every surface on every product---and duplicates so more than one polisher can be at work at any given time. I've seen photographs of these wheels hanging on racks in the factory---a BIG BUNCH of them!! The very best of the aftermarket (re) finishers polish by hand. That sort of thing brings to mind the saying "This is serious business--bring money!"
Develop a finishing process which does not require polishing, and use it until such time as the neophyte polishing folks get up to speed. Right about here is where I start running my mouth without knowing what I'm talking about---that being the facts of the matter. I'm told the preparation process for the funky finish requires no polishing---that it's accomplished by blasting with an unknown media---I've heard crushed walnut shells. (I know they do a first class job of stripping paint from metal, but that's all I know.) At any rate, the Bright Blue finish (which requires EXPERT polishing) was in short supply at the time----and for a time following WWII.
And I hope you won't call it a "pre" anything! I've always considered the folks using such lingo do so because they don't know the proper name of the predecessor----and don't wish to display their ignorance.
Ralph Tremaine
As an aside, the polishing of a S&W (hand ejector) revolver is more than a difficult task because of all the varying surfaces. Have a look---count 'em---and then compare them to any other maker's product. Dealing with those many surfaces was accomplished with the use of hard leather formed polishing wheels---Walrus hide, so I've been told, one each for every surface on every product---and duplicates so more than one polisher can be at work at any given time. I've seen photographs of these wheels hanging on racks in the factory---a BIG BUNCH of them!! The very best of the aftermarket (re) finishers polish by hand. That sort of thing brings to mind the saying "This is serious business--bring money!"
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Welcome to the Forum! You've got a great start to a fine collection with that 5-screw K-38. They are great revolvers and have been used for very accurate target shooting for a long time! I'm sure that this one will not be your last S&W revolver! Congratulations, and enjoy!
DWalt
Member
Bead blasting, but I do not know what media was used. I'd say aluminum oxide, but there are several other blasting media types. I wouldn't think walnut shells. And it does take only a small fraction of the skill, time, and effort vs. using polishing wheels.
It does indeed take only a small fraction of skill, time and effort---once you've established what I'll call the set-up. Now if all you're doing is cleaning stuff, pretty much anything will do, but if you're after a certain surface or finish (for lack of better terms) there are several variables to be established---what media (and size), the line pressure, the distance from the nozzle to the work piece, and the angle of attack to name what are likely the most important. All I've ever done with it is clean engine parts, but I fooled around with it enough to learn the end product (the finish) will vary significantly when changes are made.
Ralph Tremaine
