Problem with 66-8: powder fouling causing cylinder to bind

[VinnieL59]

As a rookie cop in 1979, we spent quite a lot of time on the range in training and fired several hundreds of rounds. Of course everyone used revolvers then. My model 66 had not yet arrived, so I fired my blued model 15 .38 Special. I remember almost everyone who fired model 66's or other stainless S&W revolvers having this problem. I never knew why I never had that problem with mine after receiving it... Now I know, the addition of the gas ring. My 66 went back to the factory 2 times, once because the cylinder was striking the top frame when closing it, and a second time because the barrel rifling just stopped, and then started again, as if they had quit for lunch. Couldn't hit the broad side of a barn with it until they replaced the barrel. From then on it was dead-on accurate! I guess those were some tough times for S&W.

 

[MWC2068]

Interesting revision. I've seen cylinders go flying during speed reloads on well worn Guns but never asked if the yoke went with it. I wonder if this would stop that from happening. I'd like to see what the ejector rod looks like and how it retains the cylinder to the yoke.

The only ones that I have seen come apart like that are the models that have the the spring detent on the front sideplate screw, the spring and the screw point make a grove in the partial retaining groove in the yoke and slamming in a reload on the clock with speed loaders, like the Jet ones and Safariland2s and 3s. The yoke will separate from the cylinder on the 686's that I have seen do this.

 

[peterthefish]

The only ones that I have seen come apart like that are the models that have the the spring detent on the front sideplate screw, the spring and the screw point make a grove in the partial retaining groove in the yoke and slamming in a reload on the clock with speed loaders, like the Jet ones and Safariland2s and 3s. The yoke will separate from the cylinder on the 686's that I have seen do this.

Same. But I wonder if keeping the yoke and cylinder together would stop that type of failure.

Also, my regularly used revolvers all have varying degrees of wear sad you describe, but I don't use speed loaders - moon clips only, and I'm usually dropping / throwing them in, not forcing them...

 

[pburnster]

I know that this is not the correct forum for my question, but getting a group of Model 66-8 shooter together is not that easy. I love my gun, but have been unable to find a quality, leather holster for it. Even Galco which I believe makes S&W holsters does not make a holster for the newer Model 66s (66-8). The problem apparently is that the barrel is 4.25" in length. There may be other dimensional problems, such as barrel lug size, etc. but I do not know. It seems that a mold for this gun has not yet been made. There are some companies that I have not yet tried, e.g. Milt Sparks. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Bill McClennon makes great stuff. He did one for my 66-8 and it fits perfect Bill McClennon Custom Gunleather

 

[LJBrennan007]

Doesn't the powder fall out the front?

I've also have shot jacketed 158 gr bullets behind Win 296 with no problems.

Sorry, could not resist. We all know what you mean, I just got a chuckle out of this. Kind of a "dyslexic reloading" situation. Have agreat 4th of July weekend everyone.

 

[LeadSpitter]

Anyone know the OP (original poster) and maybe know if there's an update to this? Did he ever get it back (sure he did but with no update who knows, lol)? Be nice to know what, if anything S&W did.

Only asking because this thread was linked in a forum email and after reading the thread, well, curious minds want to know.

 

[patrickd]

My GP100 did the same thing. I finally figured out the problem was me the shooter. I wasn't turning the gun completely upside down while ejecting the empties and powder particles were getting under the extractor star keeping it from seating back in the recess in the cylinder that last .001" and binding the cylinder. Make sure the underside of your extractor is spotless. Anything keeping it from fully seating will bind a cylinder.

 

[Art66]

Model 19-4 also has gas ring on cylinder

This will not be news to the repair department. The flat filed underneath older K frame forcing cones was a stress inducer that caused a significant number of them to crack. In the 66-8 the top of the yoke was lowered so that flat would not have to be cut. That did not leave space for a gas ring. It was a trade off for the engineers. To maintain a good double action pull the cylinder must be removed and the yoke cleaned frequently in exchange for longer barrel life with .357s.

As a cost saving change about a year and a half of K frame production ending during 1977 were also made without a gas ring. Those revolvers are said to have a "gas ring on the yoke," but in reality, like 66-8s and 69s they had no gas ring at all. Like your 66-8 they infamously fouled during PPC matches. Handejector has written that he was so frustrated with his PPC revolver that he will never own another K frame without a gas ring. In 1977 S&W was forced to admit the "gas ring on the yoke" was a failure and went back to installing gas rings in all their cylinders.

Since PPC is ordinarily shot with low power full wadcutters I would not choose a 66-8 for the sport. Its stronger forcing cone is no benifit but its lack of a gas ring is a serious detriment.

Hmmm. The model 19-4 (1977) had the gas ring moved to the cylinder according to Wikipedia. k22fan, how can I tell if mine even has a gas ring on the cylinder? I don't know what to look for.
I don't plan on shooting it much, its more of an investment, but I would like to know as much as possible about the gun.