Project mod 14/15 re-barrel to 3 inch - UPDATE

By the way, this is what I have about the gun.
Ummmm... other than the rubber stocks, it does not look all that bad. I was thinking maybe this one was rusty, crusty, or had received a poor attempt at refinishing. Maybe it's worse than what the two pictures indicate?
 
Ummmm... other than the rubber stocks, it does not look all that bad. I was thinking maybe this one was rusty, crusty, or had received a poor attempt at refinishing. Maybe it's worse than what the two pictures indicate?

I know it's not 'too' bad, but I do not want to ruin a really nice gun, this is intended as a 'project gun'. The one I have in mind comes from a shooting fellow, and 200 € is really a bottom price for a model 14 (multiply by 1.2 to have the dollar equivalent) even here in Belgium.

If I want to get a nice one, to keep as original as possible, the price will be between 350 and 400 € (all charges and local taxes included). You can understand 'my future' 14 has not the slightest chance to survive in that competition, unless I save it ;)

Without intend to ruin your Saturday morning, I attach a few pictures and prices of one of my gun shops practicing very decent (but not unusual) prices. These should give you a better insight in our used revolvers options in Belgium. It needs to be said again that concerning handguns the tupperware 9mm make 70% percent of the sales, plus about 20% of all metal semi-auto's, so the market for used revolvers is a gold mine for wheelgunners like me :) If I didn't have an excellent model 17 already, I would already have passed at the shop to bring it home :p
 

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B686,

Can you get a photo of the front sight, ramp, and rib? I am looking to see if it is pinned in place and if the ramp and Patridge would be compatible with reshaping to a Baughman style sight.

Kevin

Kevin, the two pictures is all I have for now. As soon as I have the gun, I will make more pictures to share and discuss.

Best - Dominique
 
Other salavation mission

I am proud of my only other 'salvation' project : a model 36 for 75 €, plus 34 € for the Pachmayr grip, plus 80 € for the cerakoting (I didn't have the choice for the color, it was treated with the remainder of cerakote for another client's big project). The action made me fall in love with this 36 and the J-Frames in general. That is still my best deal :D

If the 14 project works out cerakoted, it will be black, nothing else - period. All my other guns will stay in the original finish - I do not want to loose all respect over here ;)
 

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I think I like the well worn original finish on the 36.

Heck, spray paint might have looked better.

For me personally keeping as such didn't seem an option. I consider it a learning project for making it decent again, or pass, regardless the price. That's why stainless is great : it can be cleaned to like new.
 
Here is a 3" full lug .327 cut and crowned by Andy Horvath. The 3" K .22 had a bulge so I had a machinist cut it so it was square. I did the crown and round butt job myself. Larry
 

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Don't take my tongue in cheek comments too seriously, I'm joshing you. (Joking with you.)

It's got a durable finish now, but, imo, the choices are black, black and black!

FWIW, your project got me to buy a beater M65 4" SB for conversion to a 3" RB!
 
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Thanks a lot, Ned, unfortunately, the US Ebay sites mentions 'no export to Belgium'. There was a time where we in Europe could order Midway or Brownells (or any others) directly from the US, but now this is blocked both sides by customs :mad: Many shooters here envy you a lot, seeing what's available on the US market. If we want a new mainspring for a K-frame, we have to take a Wolff spring through Brownells, order an original one through our local GS which takes months, or take it out of another S&W. Some GS keep or take over older guns just for the spare parts. An again, a mainspring is 'relatively' easy to find, but image how hard it is to find a yoke screw that has been marred up.

Fortunately, some major US spare parts seller like Brownells and Hogue have set up a company here in Europe, so we can have quite a lot, except for spare barrels and cylinders : just forget about it. These are considered as essential parts and you need a separate permit for that, like for the complete gun :(
 
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Don't take my tongue in cheek comments too seriously, I'm joshing you. (Joking with you.)

It's got a durable finish now, but, imo, the choices are black, black and black!

FWIW, your project got me to buy a beater M65 4" SB for conversion to a 3" RB!

Haha, happy to see not only a disease takes over the world, but good things cross back and forth over the globe.

Best - Dominique

By the way, I agree with you about black, black or black.
But the 36 worked out to be such a fine shooter, and handles so well, that I got over the color. At least it's not pink. And guess what : some tupperware boys show more interest for this revolver, as they consider it tacticool. It was my first J-Frame .38, and I never guessed it would be so much fun ;)
 
"At least it's not pink." The silver lining!

I can imagine a tacticool crowd thinking the color was "rad." Or something like that.

I think ITAR is what messed up the international gun parts trade.
 
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Project likely not to go through this time

I just got home from the trip to pick up the 6" model 14. When I arrived at the home of the gentlemen selling the mod. 14, I noticed he had two revolvers on the table, two S&W model 14-2, usual 6" barrel. After a short talk, he tells me I can have either one for the same price (200 Euro - about 230 $). The other still has the original grip.

Looking closely at both, there are mechanically both in good shape, but the second one is almost looking like new for a gun that I now date back to 1963. No scratches, marred screws, cylinder barely showing a turn-line ... only the wooden grip has a slight hit at the back. So obviously, I chose for the that one.

However, now looking at it at home, the idea to chop the barrel becomes as unbearable as mutilating a beloved dog. So I think I am going to keep this one as it is, but shoot it a lot ;) I attach pictures for you to judge.

So that puts my project again on longer term - I will ask my usual GS to keep me a real beated model 14/15 for this project, or why not a 67 (easier on the finish) and not to show me any nice S&W when I get there to pick it up :D.

So it seems the naysayers win this time ... but I promise to keep you all updated when this project pops up again.

Best - B686
 

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I just got home from the trip to pick up the 6" model 14. When I arrived at the home of the gentlemen selling the mod. 14, I noticed he had two revolvers on the table, two S&W model 14-2, usual 6" barrel. After a short talk, he tells me I can have either one for the same price (200 Euro - about 230 $). The other still has the original grip.

Looking closely at both, there are mechanically both in good shape, but the second one is almost looking like new for a gun that I now date back to 1963. No scratches, marred screws, cylinder barely showing a turn-line ... only the wooden grip has a slight hit at the back. So obviously, I chose for the that one.

However, now looking at it at home, the idea to chop the barrel becomes as unbearable as mutilating a beloved dog. So I think I am going to keep this one as it is, but shoot it a lot ;) I attach pictures for you to judge.

So that puts my project again on longer term - I will ask my usual GS to keep me a real beated model 14/15 for this project, or why not a 67 (easier on the finish) and not to show me any nice S&W when I get there to pick it up :D.

So it seems the naysayers win this time ... but I promise to keep you all updated when this project pops up again.

Best - B686


Wise decision, the one you picked is far too nice to alter. Maybe you can find a well worn Model 15 for your 3 inch project.
 

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