Quality of Modern 686 vs Pre-Lock 686

[BCWood64]

I'm looking to add a 4inch 686 to my collection. I've been trying to track down a pre-lock 686 but wondering if its worth the price jump over a brand new 686. I can get a 686 4' right now from Buds for less then 600 dollars with military discount. I know over the years they added the lock, MIM parts like trigger and hammer just wanted to see if its really worth that price difference? Thank you.

 

[SLT223]

I would first try to get my hands on a 686-4 plus, then any other pre-lock, then a new one. Note that the 686 no dash model had a recall. If the recall work was done there will be an M stamped in the yoke area of the frame.

That being said there is nothing mechanically wrong with the new guns. They shoot extremely well. They just dont have collector value.

 

[Pef]

I had a 686-2, a 686-5 and still have a 686-6, each in 4". The -2 was a square butt, the others round butts. I could not tell the difference in trigger pull, smoothness, etc. I gave the 686-5 to my brother as a retirement gift, and I sold the 686-2. The 686-6 is my nightstand gun. It is far more accurate than I am.

A new 686 for less that $600 is a good deal. If it were my money, and I was buying a shooter, I'd go with the new gun at that price.

 

[DETROIT]

I personally would buy pre-mim/lock. Why buy a new one that would lose value vs buying old and maintaining its value. Gunbroker prices seem to be inflated. With saying that i would like to own a 627 PC

 

[grip frame]

For me its not so much that the new guns are not solid its that they lack the classic look of the older ones. The redesign of the rear of the frame to first add the frame mounted firing pin (I can tolerate -5 models) then a few years later the addition of even more material for the lock mechanism IMO totally ruined the classic look of the revolver. The hole in the side for the lock and and current style of stamping on the barrel reduces the appeal even more.

I would advise you to search for a nice pre lock version. I like the -3 with the flash chrome hammer and trigger,square butt and original wood target grips. The -3 also had design improvements over the earlier versions.

 

[A.J.R.]

I know this isn't a proper answer to your question but I have three L frames. Two are modern production 686s and a 586 prelock with a less than common 3' barrel. As far as quality they are all really nice shooting pistols. If my life depended on it I wouldn't hesitate to grab anyone of them. Though if I'm just going out to the range I'm taking the modern Smith's because I don't want to feel bad about beating up the 586.

 

[Browns fan]

For me its not so much that the new guns are not solid its that they lack the classic look of the older ones. The redesign of the rear of the frame to first add the frame mounted firing pin (I can tolerate -5 models) then a few years later the addition of even more material for the lock mechanism IMO totally ruined the classic look of the revolver. The hole in the side for the lock and and current style of stamping on the barrel reduces the appeal even more.

I would advise you to search for a nice pre lock version. I like the -3 with the flash chrome hammer and trigger,square butt and original wood target grips. The -3 also had design improvements over the earlier versions.

Trust Me Find A Dash -3 You Will Keep The Dash 3 For Life Do A Search On The Dash 3 THe Finast Version Of The 686 Period

 

[bigwheelzip]

I'm looking to add a 4inch 686 to my collection.

If your acquiring with an eye toward perceived value and resale, then get a pre-lock. If you just want to shoot and have worry-free fun with it, get the one at Bud's.

Even with a lock, you'll still get most of your money back if you want to sell it, especially with your discount.

 

[ejjeff]

Buy the new one and shoot the snot out of it. If it breaks S&W will repair or replace it. jmho

 

[loeman]

I know what you mean about price difference I've seen some nice pre-locks in my LGSs and pawn shops nearing $800 and the $200 difference isn't chump change to me. But having said that, I'd rather have the pre-lock. I have a 686 no dash with 2.5 in. barrel and 686-3 with 4 inch barrel and a Md 681 no dash with 4 inch barrel. All three are fantastic guns.

 

[BCWood64]

None of my LGS seem to have a pre lock 686 in stock. So I'm looking on Gun Broker but those prices seem inflated.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

I own 3 pre 97 686s and like them. However there is something to look for on the used 686 market and that is the condition. Check the BC gap it should be .006 to .008. Headspace should be .062 to .064. BC alignment with no rubs or ticks and extractor rod straightness. Carryup, trigger pull and let off. Overall cosmetics along with barrel and cylinder condition. Firing pin and bushing condition. Unless you are gunsmith savy and can fix these things yourself, they are the items that would make it worth buying or not. Versis a new 686 with the factory warrantee.

 

[HorizontalMike]

Inflation

I'm looking to add a 4inch 686 to my collection. I've been trying to track down a pre-lock 686 but wondering if its worth the price jump over a brand new 686. I can get a 686 4' right now from Buds for less then 600 dollars with military discount...

FWIW, I paid $315 + $18.90tx of ($333.90) for my 4in 686nodash back in August of 1986. I just ran an online inflation calculator and in 2016 dollars it comes out as $736.44 tax included.

So YES, new 686 4in guns are cheaper today than they were in 1986. That premium for "no-dash" really is not a premium IMO, just inflation kicking in.

And yes, I still have my original receipt...

 

[Mehutch]

Get them while you can, they wont be any cheaper or in greater numbers, if you see one, get it and enjoy it.



and this one:

 

[Tom S.]

You know the old saying about opinions. With that said, here's mine:

For the difference in cost, if you are buying it to use it, go new. It has a guaranty and IMHO, is every bit as good as any L frame Smith & Wesson has produced, and in some ways, better. I hadn't any experience working on a MIM gun until I bought a 617. When I took it apart to do a trigger job, it took me a lot less time than a pre-lock gun would have taken. The MIM parts are already smooth, so there's little to no stoning required, other than to the machine marks on the frame. If you are buying to shoot a little and for an investment, the pre-lock would be a better choice.

 

[chrishu44]

I'm also curious about the quality of the new guns I'm specifically looking for a 686 4 inch and will mostly be looking at new manufacture. I've never owned a newer smith so I don't know what there like. I would love to find a older square butt, no lock, six shot 686 but I don't think that will happen at least without a big difference in price. So its either a new standard 686 or a stainless gp100.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I have both, a 2.5" prelock, and a 4" and a 3" with the IL. I can't seem to detect any difference in the quality. All are 686+s.

I paid $350 for the 2.5" some time ago, used, no box, gorgeous rosewood, after market stocks - could be early 1990s, could be 1980s. It's a dash 4 so we can always look it up to see when those were made. For no reason that matters I had a trigger job done; it was actually quite unnecessary.

The 4" I bought about 2 years ago, maybe 3, and the retail price before I got hit with a premium I didn't see coming was $850 or $900. I don't do business with that brick and mortar auction house any longer. I think I paid $725 for the 3" last year, from a Forum member. Both of these were NIB. Neither of them needs or will ever get a trigger job while I own them.

They all shoot great and the 3" graduated to replace the 2.5" as my nighttime gun. The 4" gun is my packin' pistol woods gun. But the 2.5" won't be ignored.....

My 586 no lock has a 6" barrel - my oh my is that gun ever accurate at distance!

Just for the record, I actually EDC 2" K frames but I love the utility of L frames for other purposes.

 

[Wee Hooker]

I've had more than a few of each over the years. Personally, I have had specimens of both that were better than others. As for trends, I have found little difference in "usable quality" in the latter series as a whole. In fact, I find that the internal fit and finish of the post lock versions tends to be more consistent. It takes very little to get them to pro/ performance center action standards.
I buy what I like regardless of lock or others opinions.

 

[Mark IV]

I had one of the new Model 66's (till I traded it to a buddy), and I could detect nothing that was sub-par. The (admittedly ugly) internal lock, and the MIM parts never really bugged me, on this or other modern Smiths I've had.
That being said, an early 4" 686 has been a grail gun of mine for decades, and they have a certain panache that the new ones just don't (I got to play with a buddy's new 686+ not long ago).
You'd be getting a nice deal from Buds, and it surely wouldn't be a bad move, but it sounds like deep down you're still kinda wanting an older pre-lock 686, so if you cheap out, are you going to regret it later?
And, if the money is a factor, what kind of deal will Buds give on a GP100? You'd probably save a hundred+ bucks, and as a range blaster, these are as good as anything (and better than most), and have customer service as good as S&W's.
Worth considering.

 

[chrishu44]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

 

[SLT223]

FWIW, I paid $315 + $18.90tx of ($333.90) for my 4in 686nodash back in August of 1986. I just ran an online inflation calculator and in 2016 dollars it comes out as $736.44 tax included.

So YES, new 686 4in guns are cheaper today than they were in 1986. That premium for "no-dash" really is not a premium IMO, just inflation kicking in.

And yes, I still have my original receipt...

I don't know. You have to bear in mind that the $7xx handle on the pre-lock today is a used gun. NIB would pull $900+ no problem. Used they are worth more than a new one.

I think apples to apples would be comparing that used pre-lock value to the used value of a 686-6.

 

[SS57]

I was in yours shoes a couple of years ago, but I wanted a 3 inch. I have several pre-lock L's in other barrel lengths but wanted the three inch. I decided I didn't want to pay the premium for the pre-lock 3's so I bought a new -6 3 inch. I could not be happier. Super smooth action and tight. But the choice is yours. Good luck.

 

[Mark IV]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

Then I'd say the Ruger GP100 is definitely your huckleberry, and I'd bet most folks will agree. But you're gonna want a real beefy belt and holster if you plan on hauling that bastage around every day !!

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

I prefer pre-lock, but the lock is not a deal breaker for me, and the new 686 is as good as the old one for most of us. I would, as mentioned above, look for a 686+. If your interested is looking a while longer there is a Talo version in 7.5" barrel and 4" barrel. Good luck!

 

[jaymoore]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it. I have a model 19 and its treated like a 38 special by me I can't remember the last time I shot 357s in it, and when I do there always 158 grain. I want a stainless steel 4 inch 357 that I can use for conceal carry and can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone. I really want stainless steel so when I carry it I wouldn't have to worry about the finish like blued or nickel gun.

I have long since learned to inspect any revolver before purchase, new or used (starting in the early '80s). Current production seems about the same or better as the older stuff, shooter-wise. Advantage with new is you have the warranty. As far as aesthetics, well...How does it look whilst you are looking at the front sight, pulling the trigger?

 

[chrishu44]

I guess I should add I owned a Ruger Gp100 in blued with the 4.2 inch barrel and I carried it for awhile IWB on my right side. I don't remember it being any harder to carry than a 4 inch k frame. The only reason I traded it was I really wanted stainless and blue was all I could find at the time. I was going to buy a new Gp100 with no hesitation but same problem, there a little hard to find in my area. The Gp100 is a great gun but I really can't get over the way they cut the front of the barrel under lug. So this time I want to get exactly what I want so I will keep it. I think a 4 inch six shot 686 is one I'd never get rid of I just wanted to make sure new Smith and Wesson quality was good, I keep seeing all these internet horror stories and videos.

 

[Collo Rosso]

I have 3 S&W revolvers with the lock. When people comment about it I just tell them "when I shoot them, all I see is the sights".

 

[rwt1405]

Then I'd say the Ruger GP100 is definitely your huckleberry, and I'd bet most folks will agree. But you're gonna want a real beefy belt and holster if you plan on hauling that bastage around every day !!

+1 on that!

While I have two pre lock 686's (2 1/2" and 4"), I purchased a GP100 Wiley Clapp (they are 3") and have to say I like it a lot (and NO Lock Hole, I refuse to buy a 686 with one), and it will make a good carry gun for colder weather and hiking, etc..

 

[AlHunt]

What I'm looking for is a 357 magnum that I don't have to worry about what I shoot in it.

... I can shoot barn burning light 357s all day long. The dreaded 110 and 125 grain magnums that can crack a k frame's forcing cone.

Sounds like you want to use it hard. Might want to start with a fresh gun. Get the new one. S&W would probably warranty an older one for you, but with a new one there's no question that you're the original owner.

 

[revolver686]

I have three 686s; a -4, a -5 and a -6. I just don't see any real difference in the build quality or function between them. I have had no operational issues with MIM or internal firing pins, and the lock has never caused me a bit of problem. I only fire .357 and with 1000s of rounds through them they have never given me any issues.

However, aesthetically I have to give the nod to the -4. I like the flash-chromed trigger and hammer, no lock hole, old-style cylinder release, and a somewhat slimmer frame where the hammer rests.