Question on clear hard surface finish for bare steel 1917 S&W

Bill_in_fl

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2012
Messages
220
Reaction score
141
Location
Hudson, Fl.
I have a 1917 S&W project revolver that I brought back to life.
It was dirty, rusty and pitted when I got it. I fixed it so now it is operating correctly and I buffed it out to a mirror polish.

The problem I am encountering is either no one in my area does royal blue hot tank bluing, or else those that are far away and do, charge quite a bit for it. I kind of like it mirror polished out like it is. It looks like it is nickel plated though it isn't.

I have a friend who does hydro-printing on guns and he told me that if I wanted it hydro-printed, he would have to bead blast it to get the revolver's surface to hold the paint. With all the time I've spent buffing it out to a mirror polish, I don't want that.

I considered just keeping a good coat of auto wax polish on it, but that doesn't permanently seal it as well as I'd like it.

So I am wondering is there is some kind of very hard clear epoxy or something that doesn't need bead blasting to apply that I could use to seal the carbon steel from rust, while still preserving the buffed out mirror polish I have right now?

Would appreciate any advice.

.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Your best bet is a sprayed-on eurethane varnish finish. That alone will seal the polished steel against your marvelous Florida humidity. Back it up with a couple of coats of automotive wax it is even better. But, be advised, any scratches, nicks, and dings will expose the raw steel to active rust. For total rust protection, you will have to go to a plated or electroless nickle finish.
 
Your best bet is a sprayed-on eurethane varnish finish. That alone will seal the polished steel against your marvelous Florida humidity. Back it up with a couple of coats of automotive wax it is even better. But, be advised, any scratches, nicks, and dings will expose the raw steel to active rust. For total rust protection, you will have to go to a plated or electroless nickle finish.

Thanks John. But that's just the problem, I don't want a surface finish clear urethane that will nick or scratch easily, thus exposing the bare steel. I'm hoping someone here will know of a very hard clear epoxy type of coating that won't turn out "milky" and can be applied to a mirror polished bare carbon steel surface, not requiring bead blasting.


.
 
Norrell Moly Resin has a clear version IIRC. It is as tough a clear coat as you will find. It is a spray and bake product, impervious to solvents when cured.

They recommend grit blasting (not bead blasting), but I have used it on polished surfaces and had no problems. You could test it on some wrenches or sockets in your toolbox to see if it will work for you. One bottle would do several rifles, even more revolvers.
 
Last edited:
Lauder Duracoat sell a clear coat. I think this is a two-part mix epoxy, like the colored finishes.
Truth is, no clean coat is going to last very well, you'd be better off saving up your money and having it blued or bright hard chrome plated.

I'd contact Lauer to talk it over with them:

Lauer Custom Weaponry: DuraCoat Clear
 
Regardless of what you put on there it will chip and peel through use.....

Just get it nickeled and be done.....

Look for a local plating shop and see what they would want to do an already prepared part...... Take em the pieces you want done, and I bet they would do it very inexpensively.
 
Last edited:
I agree with Muley Gil. I have a Ruger single six with polished steel and alloy parts. I have done nothing to it for 3 years except treat it like a gun and it looks like I just polished it. Recognize that finely polished surfaces are much more impervious to rust and tarnish because the surface is so smooth and lacking in pores for corrosion to take hold.
 
Regardless of what you put on there it will chip and peel through use.....

Just get it nickeled and be done.....

Look for a local plating shop and see what they would want to do an already prepared part...... Take em the pieces you want done, and I bet they would do it very inexpensively.

1. Unless the local plating shop has an FFL Dealers license, plating a gun is gunsmithing without a license, a Federal crime.

2. Guns are not motorcycle parts. Guns require special knowledge to plate or you will not be able to reassemble it due to plating build up.
 
Check out POR15. A buddy of mine clear coated his shotgun with this stuff. Doesn't scratch easily, at all. Tuff stuff!
 
Back
Top