Questions about the 4006 series

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Zero problems. :cool:

Regarding the 686, I believe that they just installed a bushing with a smaller firing pin hole. At least that is what it appears they did on mine. The only problem I've had with the 686 was my own fault; I used a bronze brush that I should have pitched to clean the cylinder face and a piece of one of the bristles broke off and got stuck between the cylinder and the yoke, preventing the cylinder from closing.

hmm so it was a simple parts switch out then, guess that explains why with my old man his 686 was quickly fixed back in 83' after the recall.

he still sold it though because he felt he couldnt trust it after that. but still though he had a habit of buying the first of everything and got all of the teeathing issues to go along with it, hence why I'm always try and look into the history of something first to make sure I dont fall into the same trap.
 
New to me 4006 TSW

Bought the TSW, it was an armory queen. Still had the papers, box and the S&W product registration card.

5 magazines, brought it home and field stripped it. Dust in the barrel and no evidence of being shot, ever. Super clean. One very light scuff on the forward part of the slide.

I have a 1000 rounds and will toddle off to the range tomorrow to see how it shoots.

Even the sights still glow (faint but still)

I am a happy camper.:D
 
Bought the TSW, it was an armory queen. Still had the papers, box and the S&W product registration card.

5 magazines, brought it home and field stripped it. Dust in the barrel and no evidence of being shot, ever. Super clean. One very light scuff on the forward part of the slide.

I have a 1000 rounds and will toddle off to the range tomorrow to see how it shoots.

Even the sights still glow (faint but still)

I am a happy camper.:D
GlenH-"And then I will take pics for everyone on the S&W Forum......promise."


:D
 
Will do

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Both the 586 and 686 were recalled for a new firing pin bushing, firing pin and firing pin spring. the frame was then stamped with an "M". I modified several hundred of both models as a "Tempoary repair station" in Fresno, Ca. Photo attached of the special tools to do the repair.
 

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Both the 586 and 686 were recalled for a new firing pin bushing, firing pin and firing pin spring. the frame was then stamped with an "M". I modified several hundred of both models as a "Tempoary repair station" in Fresno, Ca. Photo attached of the special tools to do the repair.

700? that sounds like an awful lot, was that mostly precautionary? and did they make it known what serial numbers after the recall would be good to go and not have to be sent back for the M modification?


hmm that 4006 looks brand new, like some sort of time capsule, hope it shoots well
 
I'm no expert, but I believe the 4006 was one of those hits that manufacturers strive for and rarely achieve.

It's terrific debut is what drove Glock to hurriedly prepare a 40S&W of their own. And as the OP alludes to, Glock's first effort did not go smoothly.

People say they are tank tough and after handling and shooting them some I would not disagree.
Indeed! While I haven't touched base with any 4006s in a while, the last one I had was a used PD gun that looked a little road worn. But I fed it a variety of loads, in all the popular weights and speeds and it just kept eating!
I do remember accuracy being lackluster at first, but eventually they (the ammo manufactures) tightened up and it shoots as good as the other calibers out there.
On a side note: I find it rather funny how the .40 S&W has always been a major fly in Glocks ointment!:D
Dale
 
hmm cant beat that with a gun you've never shot before, who knows how good you'll be next week after getting used to it.
 
180 gr flat point. About 10 yards with the new to me 4006. Love this pistol

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If your groups were consistently hitting a little to the left, you can drift the rear sight a little to the right; 0.5mm would be a good start. If you don't have a brass punch you can use a short length of hardwood dowel, available at any building supply stores or most hardware stores; cut a piece to about 6 inches. Mark where the rear sight is with a pencil, so you can when it moves.
 
If your groups were consistently hitting a little to the left, you can drift the rear sight a little to the right; 0.5mm would be a good start. If you don't have a brass punch you can use a short length of hardwood dowel, available at any building supply stores or most hardware stores; cut a piece to about 6 inches. Mark where the rear sight is with a pencil, so you can when it moves.

Low left like this can also be too much finger in trigger. Pull finger out a touch and use pad more than joint. This was my problem with my first one. Ask gunsmith about moving sight, and he told above fix. Worked like a charm.
 
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