Rebarreling and ejector rod housing?

roysha

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I know this topic has been hashed, rehashed and re-rehashed however I can't find a thread that answers my question so I'll make it short. If there is a thread covering this, please point me to it.

Assuming the barrel hand tightened to the 1:00 o'clock position and then the material was removed from the appropriate places to get it to index properly, how does one compensate for the ejector rod length?

In other words, if you remove enough metal to turn the barrel in nearly one full turn, what has to be done to fit the ejector rod?

Thanks.
 
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Most times the spring loaded pin that goes in the end of the rod will have enough travel for 1 turn. Depending on how everything was originally fitted, you may have to shorten the ejector rod and center pin an appropriate amount.
 
I agree with Protocall Design above.

If you have a pretty good gap - 1/16" to 1/8" - between the front end of the extractor rod and ctr pin, measured to the backside of the barrel lug, you likely won't have to adjust anything. Or slightly re-taper the ramp at the back end of the locking bolt in the barrel lug, if the rod doesn't engage and close easily.

But if they're already close, you'll need to remove the same amount from the front ends of both the Ext rod and ctr pin, as removed from the barrel shoulder.

K and N frame Smith barrels have 36 Threads Per Inch, so 1" divided by 36 = .0278" removal from barrel shoulder per thread, for one full barrel turn.
 
You don't have to do anything to the ejector rod. The length of the extractor rod collar can be modified (shortened) to accommodate the change and a a minor difference in the overall length of the extractor rod assembly, if needed after the barrel has been set back, etc. The approx .027" of adjustment required after setback of one complete turn of the barrel can easily be accommodated. As others have stated, the center pin may need to be shortened to interface properly with the front locking bolt.

S&W used to manufacture the e. r. collars in three different lengths, .150", .179", and .190". The ones produced now are usually between .175" and .180".
 
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roysha,

Did we answer your question?

I ask because I just recalled you mentioned ejector rod "housing" in your title. What ever amount you "turn off" the barrel also has to come off the housing or "shroud under the barrel, if it has one like on a magnum revolver barrel.
 
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roysha,

Did we answer your question?

I ask because I just recalled you mentioned ejector rod "housing" in your title. What ever amount you "turn off" the barrel alos has to come off the housing or "shoud under the barrel, if it has one like on a magnum revolver barrel.

Thank you all for the advice. Indeed the question was answered. I did use the word "housing" in my title which was an error on my part. I was actually asking about the length adjustment on the rod itself. I'm thankful there are folks here that can read between the lines.
 

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