Recommendation for having a Mod 10-7 reblued

I would take photos of it, as it is now and then send it to be re-done to your liking. I, too would like to thank you and your father for your service. Even though it might take away from it's "originality/history", it would be a beautiful reminder to you and your family of all it's been through. I have my dad's Model 10 H.B. in original Nickel finish. I doubt my dad ever shot 50 rounds through it all the years he owned it. I do shoot it occasionally and enjoy it very much. I had thought of putting it in a glass presentation case, but decided it was better enjoyed at the range.

Make the decision that will be right for YOU, IMO, there is NO wrong answer! Thank you, and enjoy that wonderful Model 10 :-)
 
I'm definitely a fan of Smith & Wesson when it comes to refinishing. I've had three revolvers re-blued there in the past year with excellent results.
The basic cost is $288 for High Polish re-bluing and they go completely through the revolver and will repair or replace anything else needed. The cost can be higher depending upon what if any repairs or replacement parts may be needed and there is also a range fee if the firearm requires live testing. All in all, it is very reasonable and usually takes from 2 to 3 months before your piece is returned.
 
I greatly appreciate all of the advice given to me here. However, my 21 years of Army service makes me cringe at a dirty of rusted weapon.

I wipe this MOD 10 down every few days. I live in the Panhandle of Florida and since I fish the inter-coastal between Choctowatchee Bay and West Bay, I always take it with me as a Gator gun.

I've replaced the hammer myself, so it's only two years old. I had a buddy of mine set the timing, but otherwise, the only other thing changed is my dad replaced the grips with aftermarket rubberized ones which he preferred. I wouldn't mind having the original wood grips back on it though. Underneath the grips there's also some corrosion although not as bad. I oil it down after every trip out fishing, so some of the rust may not be as noticeable.

My dad passed away in 2010. So I can't get an affidavit from him. Really, I'm not worried about it because this weapon will be in my family long after I'm dead. It was the first gun both of my kids shot after learning the basics on a .22 wheel gun that never turned up after the tornado. I know the safe was broken open because I found this .38, one of my XD's, all three of my shotguns bent to hell and gone and my old BB gun. But nothing else was ever turned in or recovered.

Here's some picture of the old girl. If these don't turn out well, I'll use my Photobucket account for larger images.
 

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Here's the other side of it. It has a lot of holster and sweat wear on it. Which is why I think my dad replaced the grips.
 

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This revolver in essence watched over your dad and saved your life and the lives of others and is need of a little rescue. Saving its life is the only thing that makes sense. Ford's Refinishing and S&W were mentioned earlier. While I have not used their services I have seen photos of work done at Ford's. It may take some time for them to do the job due to the long list of those in front of you but who knows if he knows the story behind the gun it may receive "special" treatment. You have a project that in my opinion is well worth it. Your father would be even prouder of you. Thank you for your service. You have my respect.
 
Personally, I'd change nothing about this firearm? I've had a couple bad deals with Ford's and changing the rubber grips (while popular) would change the feel and felt recoil.
P.S. Great story, I love a good story that ends well!
My $.02, Steve
 
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oh hell, a S&W re-blue won't devalue your revolver, it still has it's history and will continue with a fresh haircut...you're re-finish is just another page in it's history still left down the road.
 
Shoot, I've owned guns in a LOT worse shape than that. I'd clean it with some Flitz polish, then give it a good coat of wax, and call it a day.

I buy "Flitz" at the gun store. You can probably find it in other places too. All different sizes. Just work by hand. Rub it on gently, buff it off gently. I never do it more than a couple of coats. Then a couple of coats of wax. I use "Renaissance Wax" now, but I used plain old automobile paste wax for years.
 
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I think it is divine intervention that it looks that good after being ejected from a safe by a tornado and buried in the ground for a year! It looks to have "honest" and well-earned wear.

If you are set on have the finish redone, my vote would be for the factory. If you tell them the back story (especially the military service part) I'm sure they'll do it right. Please let us know what you decide.
 
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