Red Mottled Stocks on 38 Safety Hammerless 1st Model

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Love the large frame top breaks! I just got my first 44 DA 5” nickel with MOP stocks a few weeks ago. I saw a previous thread with a picture of your gun and have been looking for a blued 44 DA ever since lol. Those Red Mottled stocks look great on there!
 
Love the large frame top breaks! I just got my first 44 DA 5” nickel with MOP stocks a few weeks ago. I saw a previous thread with a picture of your gun and have been looking for a blued 44 DA ever since lol. Those Red Mottled stocks look great on there!


Thanks for the kind words. The gun is in the 12000 range and I should letter it but I just don’t think it will reveal much.


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Thanks for the kind words. The gun is in the 12000 range and I should letter it but I just don’t think it will reveal much.


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Honestly with it being blued I would letter it for that fact alone. I just ordered the tools and materials to try my hand at remaking a mainspring for my 44, I’m hoping it’s as easy as it looks in videos lol.
 

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It is never as easy as it looks. I'll offer two suggestions. Remove (polish out) all file or grinding marks especially any that run across the spring as these will cause stress fractures and break the spring. Secondly, if one draws the temper with Mapp gas or an acetylene torch, make an 'L' bracket of thin steel three or four inches wide. Clamp the short end of the 'L' in a vise with the long leg facing out. Place a pile of clean sand on the long leg and nestle the part to be drawn (tempered) in the sand. Heat from below. The sand absorbs the heat uniformly and the part is tempered uniformly.
 
If it works out, maybe make several

That’s the plan, I ordered an 8”x12x0.050 sheet so I should be able to make a few out of it. There’s a guy needing the V spring for his trigger if I can figure out how to do the mainsprings I’ll probably try and make a couple of those too so he can fix his gun.
 
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It is never as easy as it looks. I'll offer two suggestions. Remove (polish out) all file or grinding marks especially any that run across the spring as these will cause stress fractures and break the spring. Secondly, if one draws the temper with Mapp gas or an acetylene torch, make an 'L' bracket of thin steel three or four inches wide. Clamp the short end of the 'L' in a vise with the long leg facing out. Place a pile of clean sand on the long leg and nestle the part to be drawn (tempered) in the sand. Heat from below. The sand absorbs the heat uniformly and the part is tempered uniformly.

Thanks! I’ve seen a few people use the lead pot method, if that fails I’ll try the sand method. I’m going to be using Mapp gas on my first ones and if I can get the method down I’ll get an acetylene set up. I’m trying be as cost effective as possible since I’m not 100% sure how hard it will be. To me the hardest part will be getting the hooked end right since that’s where mine spring is broken and I don’t have anything to work from other than trial and error. Also I don’t have a strain screw so I’ve got to make a mainspring then send the gun to Chris Hirsch so he can make a strain screw from scratch
 
Hi There,


Honestly with it being blued I would letter it for that fact alone. I just ordered the tools and materials to try my hand at remaking a mainspring for my 44, I’m hoping it’s as easy as it looks in videos lol.


If it isn't too much trouble, please post the link to the video. I
want to see how others do it.


Cheers!
Webb
 
Hi There,





If it isn't too much trouble, please post the link to the video. I
want to see how others do it.


Cheers!
Webb

Hey! Here’s a couple I’ve watched to get the general idea, they aren’t S&W mainsprings but the idea should be the same. There’s some good posts on AmericanLongRifles about the lead pot method as well.

lead bath spring tempering

https://youtu.be/gSJyrRP08Ms?si=AizCcHcK6sAMS26p

https://youtu.be/0yGgaulNsq8?si=u4vI02MKjrWaA1U7

https://youtu.be/U6y78unkSRo?si=-zUHtQU1xashxISB

https://youtu.be/fTH95R3NacY?si=rmFtO-Enpr0qTVK0
 
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The part that I like about the sand tempering is that one can watch for the desired color to emerge on the part. When the part is at the color desired, then the part can be flicked into a pan or bucket of oil or water to arrest the process. Triggers = straw color. Springs = gray blue.
 
WOW! We are getting way off the topic of this thread, but I feel that I need to add a comment to the hardening and tempering of a spring. The best learning is to make a spring but to put in all the time and materials first time only to have the spring break is very discouraging at best.

Prior to attempting to hardening and tempering ones needed spring I recommend purchasing one or three K frame mainsprings off an auction site like eBay. They are cheap and plentiful. Anneal the spring (heat it to orange red and let it cool to room temperature) and then harden and temper it. If it breaks, then try the next and heat it longer when tempering. More heat or longer heat softens the temper.
 
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