Redhead safe broken into

I think it also bears mentioning the safe in questions here did NOT have locking bolts on the top and bottom of the door. 12 bolts is better than most, but my Liberty Lincoln 50 also has two bolts on the top and bottom. Most high quality units like Liberty, Cannon, and Browning all have these bolts on the top and bottom of the door.
 
Extra bolts help. Bolting the safe down helps (more than anything).

I always link to this video when discussing safes. It tells you just about everything you need to know to make an informed decision about buying a typical gun safe. It also shows examples of prybar and torch cutting.

Click here:
http://youtu.be/ltK-bDbADa8?t=0m1s
 
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Not all safes are created equal guys. Needless to say this safe company has just been embarrassed.

This method will not work with all brands. Do your homework before buying. Still better than leaving the guns in the closet or wood gun cabinet. ;)

Northwest Safe Company- Gun Safes Sales and Moving - Videos -

Great safes, but holy heck... that site wants almost $1,000 extra to deliver to my house!

I'm a big fan of Sturdy Safe brand safes. You can spend the same money as Liberty Lincoln and get a 5/16" SOLID (not fake composite, like the busted safe in pics above) front steel door, and 7 gauge steel body... most safes in the $2,000 range are 11 to 14 gauge steel. Delivery is free to the garage -- or pay extra for another location.

Link:
http://www.sturdysafe.com/
 
I can see that the pins are not case hardened as they won't bend. Would've made it harder to open.

EDIT: Nevermind, I see what happened there, it's the frame that's bent.
 
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Folks a fire safe is not a vault and was never inteded to stop burgulars---it is intened to keep things safe from fire for a short period of time.
I can open the back of one with a large screwdriver and a ball peen hammer in 15 minutes----only an idiot would go thru the front.
The best of fire safes are rated at two hours.
PS---Don't trust a vault or money safe to keep your guns in good condition.
Blessings
 
A locating consideration (in addition to making sure it is properly bolted down) is to locate the non-hinge side of the door close to a wall. This makes it more difficult to get a lever arm on the corner of it. If not anchoring to a concrete floor, a heavy metal joist spanning plate under the floor is probably necessary to keep it upright during an attack.
 
I think its pretty darn important to bolt one down and hopefully in a closet or a corner where it would be hard to get a six foot pry bar on it for some leverage. The only thing more important is to take the makers name off of the safe. If a crook new what brand safe it was and could examine the locking mechanism of that certain brand, it would be very easy for him to know where to drill a hole or two and override the locking mechanism.

What you say is very important. Bolt to floor (Hopefully concrete) and to a back wall (again concrete if you’re in a basement) Safe should go into as tight of a location as possible. Try to put the opening side of safe tight to an inside corner. The harder you make it the more security you potentially have. You’re trying to add time to a thief’s task.
 
Great safes, but holy heck... that site wants almost $1,000 extra to deliver to my house!

I'm a big fan of Sturdy Safe brand safes. You can spend the same money as Liberty Lincoln and get a 5/16" SOLID (not fake composite, like the busted safe in pics above) front steel door, and 7 gauge steel body... most safes in the $2,000 range are 11 to 14 gauge steel. Delivery is free to the garage -- or pay extra for another location.

Link:
Gun Safes : Fire Safe Manufacturer : Sturdy Gun Safe

That link is to a company here in Washington that sells Liberty safes. :p Find a LOCAL Liberty dealer.
 
I think the old saw comes into play here. Locks only keep honest people honest. If someone wants something badly enough they will find a way to get it.

Mr. Keith, did you ever come across a safe that had been opened with a "burning bar" ? I've seen photos of one opened that way but never seen one for real.
 
One of the more interesting pictures of safes was for a local estate sale a few months ago.

Had a picture of a safe that looked like someone had used an abrasive disk grinder and just cut a big square hole through the front where the lock used to be. Probably easy to just reach in the hole and shift the bolt mechanism.

Now why they though they could sell that ...
 
What little I have is in a very cheap cabinet, not much different than a gym locker. I could defeat the lock with a ball-point pen.

I don't have the dough (and my stuff isn't worth enough) to buy the better safe.

Its only purpose is to keep children, mental defectives, and gun control advocates from hurting themselves.
 
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