Reloading 40 S&W ?

retired2006

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I have never owned a 40S&W, and I am thinking about getting a M&P Pro 5".
My question for those of you who reload 40S&W, is it an easy cartridge to reload ?
I would like to use cast bullets, and want to load target loads (reduced velocity).
Is the 40S&W like the 45acp, which is easy to reload with good results, or more like the 9mm, which I find to be hard to load and get good accuracy?
Any suggestions as to good bullet weights, styles ?
I usually load Missouri Bullet Company bullets.

Thanks
John
 
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Easy to reload just like the 45 acp. Just pay attention to what your doing.
 
Yes it is easy to load and downloads are not a problem. The biggest problem I have ran into is most commercial lead bullet manufacturers make all the .40 bullets hard for higher velocity. That isn't a problem until you make some powder puff loads and you get leading because the bullet doesn't expand properly to fit the bore. I found switching powders solved this problem for me. My buddy had the same problem with .45 but it is easier to find softer .45 bullets for target velocities.

Missouri makes good .40 bullets but they are hard and Dardas cast bullets also make good cast bullets.
 
I cast my own (Lee 180gr TC-Flat point) and use AA#5 powder. They are great loads for my 4053/4014; they aren't loaded too hot...825/850fps. If you buy range brass for reloading, make sure there is no Glock brass. Their brass is oversized at the base and cannot be resized by normal means. (I found out the hard way).
Flare the case enough so that it doesn't shave lead when seating bullet and a good crimp. Other than that, they seem to be just as easy as any other cartridge.
 
the only powder i can find here is red dot.guess i will have to give it a try.i'm using 145 gr. lead flat nose.i will start out with 5gr. and see how that goes.
 
The only problem I've found with .40 S&W loading is where you get your brass. If you buy new brass, and only shoot it in your M&P, no problem.
If you shoot range trash brass shot in who knows what, expect to get some overexpanded heads that an ordinary die will not size down. Then you can either use a push-through sizer or discard the brass. In addition to older Glocks, many USPSA guns have fat chambers and can overexpand the case heads.

I load 180 gr bullets, and use HP38 for lead bullets. If you load down too much, your M&P will not eject properly, and you will need to get a reduced power ISMI recoil spring from Brownells.
 
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Successful reloading 40 S&W ends with a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die. 95% of my 40 S&W is once fired from Glocks and I have never had a chambering problem after I bought the LCFC die. I have one for 9 MM, 38/357, 40 S&W, 44 mag, and 45 acp. I use Dillon 550 progressive press.
 
I think the 40 gives me less hassle than any other in my Dillon 650.
I run 180 TC cast and make some very light and some almost full power but not quite. 965 fps.
 
Not trying to steal thread - but I'm also thinking of getting a 40 S& W and adding that cartridge to my reloading. I can easily get once shot police brass from a neighbor of mine who offered it to me anytime I wanted it. I've never fired a 40 but have watched others. Not sure of the pistol yet - probably either a Smith or a Ruger since I have an SR9 that love my reloads. Anyway . . . what size primer does the 40 use? Small pistol the same as 9mm?

I use the Lee 4 die set for my 9mm and cast my own - I have had great luck with the dies and like the FCD as well so I'm probably going to go that route with the 40.
 
40 brass seems to be pretty easy to get and the small pistol primer is correct.

I've loaded a bunch of the 175 TC and 175 SWC and the 180 SWC to great success Like many I have to use the powder that I can get, I concentrate on W231 and Clay's and really like it, At one 3 day training event I shot 1700 rounds in 3 days after the second day I had to clean and all things considering leading was minimal

I did use some autocomp and it just seemed very loud in relationship to other loadings, I had some flyers that I couldn't explain, I didnt use enough of it to blame the powder or if it was conditions for the couple days that I shot with it. I won't knock the powder but I would pick my 231 over autocomp.

All in all, I put the easiest calibers to load for as 38, 40, and 45 acp with now rank among those
 
I would like to use cast bullets, and want to load target loads (reduced velocity).

I find the 40 to be easier to reload than the 9mm's. Just a little bigger case to handle. Less variation of OAL of loads. I would suggest a slower powder than Red Dot.

For lead a couple of things to keep in mind. I don't know of any commercial casters that have any softer lead bullets. All are 16 to 18 BHN. On my M&P and my Lone Wolf barrels, they all slug >.402", so I end up using .403" diameter. Not everyone will size that large. Dardas does.

Hard lead bullets that are undersize isn't a good recipe.
 
I have never owned a 40S&W, and I am thinking about getting a M&P Pro 5".
My question for those of you who reload 40S&W, is it an easy cartridge to reload ?
I would like to use cast bullets, and want to load target loads (reduced velocity).
Is the 40S&W like the 45acp, which is easy to reload with good results, or more like the 9mm, which I find to be hard to load and get good accuracy?
Any suggestions as to good bullet weights, styles ?
I usually load Missouri Bullet Company bullets.

Thanks
John

YES, the 40 is "easy" to reload. I've had excellent results with 'Black' bullets and 231 or Universal. If it was more available I'd say stick with 231 as it seems to work the best for light-heavy loads. Universal seems to only perform well (for me) at the heavy end of things.

cheers
JohnG
 
What do you think the average cost of 1,000 rounds is with reloading .40 S&W? Not including the initial equipment purchase.


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What do you think the average cost of 1,000 rounds is with reloading .40 S&W? Not including the initial equipment purchase.


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While I haven't loaded any as of yet, I have been gathering components for years, just in case. A couple years ago I picked up a SIG 250C and will load for it/357SIG as well. I expect my cost to be less than $5.00 per box of fifty. :)
 
Simple math: 1# powder, 1,000 primers, bullet cost = low of $65 with home made cast bullets to $150 with store bought bullets. This based on free range brass.

Now if you have pre-Obama powder and primers, cost ~$35 per thousand with home cast bullets. Boy Scouts WIN -- be prepared !
 
Not trying to steal thread - but I'm also thinking of getting a 40 S& W and adding that cartridge to my reloading. I can easily get once shot police brass from a neighbor of mine who offered it to me anytime I wanted it. I've never fired a 40 but have watched others. Not sure of the pistol yet - probably either a Smith or a Ruger since I have an SR9 that love my reloads. Anyway . . . what size primer does the 40 use? Small pistol the same as 9mm?

I use the Lee 4 die set for my 9mm and cast my own - I have had great luck with the dies and like the FCD as well so I'm probably going to go that route with the 40.

i too use a Lee tl175 grain cast bullet with a 4 die set. my pet load is 5.8 grains of unique in my s&w m&p 2.0 .40 compact. A very accurate and pleasant to shoot load.
 
What do you think the average cost of 1,000 rounds is with reloading .40 S&W? Not including the initial equipment purchase.


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I am at $100 per 1000 rounds utilizing range brass, plated bullets and light target loads that make major power factor. I could probably trim that down some more by using coated bullets but it's been a bit of a long road getting a good load developed that doesn't have issues.

If I step up to XTP's at max velocity in sorted FC cases, I'm at about $165-170 per 1000 rounds.
 
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