Reloading a Winchester Model 1873 chambered in 357/38

[Chubbs103]

If you are settled on those components, the Hodgdon site has data. I like HP-38/W231 for a number of applications, but I primarily shoot cast bullets.

 

[Kp321]

Even with modern steels, the1873 action is not extremely strong. I would definitely avoid full-house 357 loads. For lever action pistol caliber silhouette, I use a moderate to light 357 loads in my Rossi 92 clone. Using 357 brass avoids the carbon ring and always feeds correctly. I am using 5 gr Unique with a 130 gr cast round nose flat tip bullet. I have enough Unique to last till I can no longer shoot.

 

[larmar1942]

My 18" Uberti 1873 replica loves .38.Spec. Penn 158 gr. lead RNFP, Accurate No. 5, 5.9gr; COAL = 1.455-1.460
Stock buckhorn/bead sights 100 yd zero gives:
Range in yards Muzzle 25 50 75 100 125
Trajectory -0.7" 2.7" 4" 3.2" 0" -5.5"

I worked up .38 instead of .357 because I have lots more .38 spec brass.
Do not let .38 get shorter than above COAL or you will have feed problems.
You'll need a flat point bullet for the tube magazine.
I've had no leading, no feed problems, no recoil, chrono avg 1088 fps.
Kinda like a .22 on steroids.

Thanks

 

[larmar1942]

I, like many SASS shooters shoot a Uberti 1873 in 38/.357 and use .38 spl brass with 158 RNFP that I cast with many different powders....most common for me, is using 4 gr. of Unique. very mild and accurate...same with Win. 231/HP-38, Red Dot etc.
My '73 doesn't care about .357 or .38 brass....some rifles for whatever reasons will function best with the longer casing....

Don't remember velocity but think it's around 650 or so.

Would certainly meet your criteria. A number of fellow SASS shooters will use a 125 cast RNFP or truncated cone bullet with excellent results as well

Randy

Thanks

 

[growr]

OAL is critical with .38 spl. 1.460 feeds flawlessly
Randy

 

[Chubbs103]

You will note that they do not make .44 Magnum 1873s, you have to go to the 1892 action for that.

I understand the concerns about the strength of the 1873 action, but Uberti has been making .44 mag 1873s for years (although I only see one model on their website right now).

Uberti 1873 Carbine Steel Rifle, U341260, .44 Mag, 19", A Grade Stock - Uberti Firearms

The bronze frame and the low power of the original .44 Henry rimfire cartridge limited the 1866 rifle's versatility. In 1873, continuing the process of

uberti-firearms.com

 

[Bugger]

I recently bought a Winchester Model 1873 chambered in 357 mag. /38 special. I am interested in reload data. I'm getting conflicting data from Hodgons. Need some help before I start reloading.

While the 1873 isn’t a strong action, it’s strong enough for factory 357 loads.
I’d use the same load in my revolvers as the 1973. I don’t go hotter than what is in reloading manuals. Actually my 357 loads are generally half way between 38 and 357 pressures, especially in the S&W 19.
I’ve had ‘92’s and I like them, but friends like the ‘73 quite a bit.
I’d love to have a 1873 in 357.

 

[Tommezgun]

An 1873 in .38/357??? Where on Earth did you find that? No way would I fire factory ammunition in such a rifle. It has a very weak action. If it truly is in that caliber, I would use only the lightest handloads with lead bullets only.

Uberti in Italy makes them. They are made for Cowboy Action Shooting. Most people that I see shooting them use light loads and lead bullets. I shoot Cowboy action but use classic calibers in my rifles and pistols (.44WCF) always with light loads.

 

[Jim Watson]

I am surprised to see a .44 Magnum 1873 repro.
At least in Europe they have to pass proof at 130%.

 

[GypsmJim]

I don't have an 1873, but I DO have a Winchester 94 Trapper. I shoot 158 gr. SWCs over W231. I used to use a book load (forgot where I got it) for rifles. Then, once I didn't have any loaded so I used a box of rounds loaded for my revolvers.

It worked fine. Now I use one formula for everything.

 

[tate razor]

I own a few Uberti 1873 rifles, so I can't say about the Miroku made 1873's but, I can't see a company building anything that would be unsafe with factory loads. If one of these guns ever blew up the manufacturer would be sued big time.
My last purchase was a Uberti 1873 Hunter chambered in .44 Magnum 20" bbl half octagonal/round. I have only shot one box of factory ammo through it, but it has performed flawlessly. The 44 and 357 operate around the same pressure, but the .44 must have more bolt thrust than the .357.
I have also contacted Taylors & Company about their model 1873 carbine chambered in the .44 Magnum, they assured me their gun will handle any load that is in SAAMI specs.
I do not own a Miroku 1873, but if I did and wanted to know more about it, I would contact them. One other thing to look for is a proof mark stamped on the gun. If it has a proof mark stamped on it, the proof house has safely shot it with a 30% higher than max load.

 

[wrangler5]

IIRC, the 1873 action feeds cartridges straight into the chamber as the bolt closes, unlike the later 92/94 actions with their angled followers. I wouldn't think the 1873 cares if the cartridge is longer or shorter (357/38), they all just go straight in. Unlike in the 92/94 style, where a 38 Special round has about 1/4 inch less bolt travel in which to get straightened out with the bore from the angled follower compared to a 357 round. Combine that with the "wrong" bullet shape and I can imagine why some folks might say 38s don't feed as well as 357s in their particular newer style action.

While I've never noticed a feeding problem in my Marlin 1894 the few times I've fed it 38s, I still prefer the longer 357 rounds just to avoid any build up at the front of the chamber.

And as an aside, I'm a big fan of the polymer coated lead bullets for just shooting. Barely more expensive than lead, and they leave absolutely nothing behind in the bore, at least at the velocities I load. Plus, I use Eggleston bullets, which gives me a choice of about 10 different colors - I use purple for full maximum power loads that duplicate defensive carry loads (for practice), red for "normal" shooting loads, and green for powder puff loads. And I use blue for a single load I worked up to shoot to the (fixed) sights of one of my favorite S&W revolvers at 15 yards, just because I could do it. Of course I label the ammo boxes, but color choice gives an additional reminder of what it is you've got in your hand at the moment.