Reloading rifle rounds

[rwsmith]

I have a Savage....

I have a Savage 110 bolt. It will take the long bullets seated out no problem and not touch the lands. SOMEWHERE I'm doing something stupid. I don't crimp rifle loads anymore but chamfer the inside of the case mouth. I have a new full length sizing die that I have adjusted down to the shell plate. I'd still like to put just enough of a taper crimp to make sure the outside of the mouth is closed up. I don't have a crimp die for the 30-06 so I use the resizing die and just BARELY raise the case to where it contacts in the inside of the die with a tiny 'scrunch'. I MAY be messing them up like this though I can't imagine. I've had some rounds that are hard to chamber, but the problem I'm most worried about is when the cases go into the chamber until the last 1/8", when it stops like hitting a rock. No beating on the bolt will budge it a fraction of an inch. I need to use the calipers more thoroughly and shoot the rifle more to figure out what the problem is. I'm using really short bullets.

 

[WR Moore]

Having gone down this rabbit hole myself lo, many moons ago I offer the following.

Depending upon what you intend to do with your rifle may influence the die set. If you're looking for very accurate ammo, Forester makes an Ultra Match seating die that aligns the bullet almost perfectly with the case. It also has a micrometer head that allows repeatable accurate changes in OAL in seconds. Using a Lyman M die to expand the neck (instead of an expander ball in the size die) is supposed to reduce case stretching and aid bullet alignment.

That being said, I don't notice much, if any, difference from ammo loaded with Dillon dies. They come from the factory with a carbide neck expander (and a spare) in the sizer, a seater and a taper crimp die. You MUST use a case gauge to set up the headspace on the size die. I'll also note that adjusting the seating die is different from other dies, so read-and follow- the directions.

If you're going for long range, the 175 gr SMK is supposed to be the way to go. The 155 gr SMK is about 3 feet flatter at 1000 yards and has the same wind drift.

Don't worry about neck turning, uniforming flash holes & primer pockets and the like. You'll need a lot of practice before that makes any difference.

 

[ageingstudent]

I have a Savage 110 bolt. It will take the long bullets seated out no problem and not touch the lands. SOMEWHERE I'm doing something stupid. I don't crimp rifle loads anymore but chamfer the inside of the case mouth. I have a new full length sizing die that I have adjusted down to the shell plate. I'd still like to put just enough of a taper crimp to make sure the outside of the mouth is closed up. I don't have a crimp die for the 30-06 so I use the resizing die and just BARELY raise the case to where it contacts in the inside of the die with a tiny 'scrunch'. I MAY be messing them up like this though I can't imagine. I've had some rounds that are hard to chamber, but the problem I'm most worried about is when the cases go into the chamber until the last 1/8", when it stops like hitting a rock. No beating on the bolt will budge it a fraction of an inch. I need to use the calipers more thoroughly and shoot the rifle more to figure out what the problem is. I'm using really short bullets.

How many times have you cycled that 06 brass? Just thinking that the neck/shoulder might be getting thick. Sizing would bring the OD of the brass into spec but if the neck is getting thick when you seat the bullet the neck diameter would be too large to chamber fully perhaps?