Removing front sight block / miling machine

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shawnfergie

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Hey everyone,

Question, I will be placing a VTAC 15" rail on my Sport and I have decided to remove the front sight block and shave it down. My logic is that I can still use the pins and have a gas block that will extremely solid.

I have access to milling machines and I'm wondering if anyone has profiled a gas block? Rather than using a dremel tool (my abilities are a bit shaky)... I can have my milling machine make quick work of the process. Thoughts?
 
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It all depends on what look you're going for. I didn't like the A2 sight sticking up in my scope so I just cut it off. It ain't pretty, but I don't care.
ARw-freefloatandbipodsmall_zpscaa6cd31.jpg


Also, a new gas block is not very expensive.
 
shawnfergie said:
Hey everyone,

Question, I will be placing a VTAC 15" rail on my Sport and I have decided to remove the front sight block and shave it down. My logic is that I can still use the pins and have a gas block that will extremely solid.

I have access to milling machines and I'm wondering if anyone has profiled a gas block? Rather than using a dremel tool (my abilities are a bit shaky)... I can have my milling machine make quick work of the process. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Dremel is definitely the tool for this job, finishing with a bench grinder, if you have one . . .
 
I have a brand new dremel and I know I can use a bench grinder at my in-laws. I thought since I can run a CNC that it might make quick work of the job.
 
VolvoWrench said:
Thanks.
I'm looking for something I can mount a flip up front sight to.
Click to expand...

Check out the YHM website. They have all different types of railed gas blocks.

https://yhm.net/accessories/gas-blocks.html

I'm sure you already know this, but I have to put it out there for those who don't. Make sure you mount a metal folding front sight to a railed gas block. Depending on your rate of fire, the gas block can get hot enough to melt polymer.
 
VolvoWrench said:
Thanks.
I'm looking for something I can mount a flip up front sight to.
Click to expand...
Just a couple of things to watch out for. A normal gas block with a picatinny rail is too short for regular sights. If you get one, be sure to get a front sight labeled as "gas block" height. I found this out the hard way.

Then there are gas blocks that are extra tall so a normal sight can be mounted there. It all depends on the gas block.

Ultimately, I went with a free float forearm and a regular flip up front sight. With my eyes the iron sights are almost useless anyway so, I may just take them off.

VolvoWrench said:
FWIW, I've gotten one pin out (so far) of my gas block by soaking it with a 50/50 combo. of auto trans. fluid and acetone. A lotta good whacks with my B.F.H. and, one is out. Still working on the other. Haven't needed to grind anything down.
Click to expand...
You are aware that they are tapered pins, right? I'm pretty sure they have to come out the right side. I only mention this because they shouldn't be that hard to remove.
 
I was going to go with the YHM clamp low profile block but I called YHM and spoke with customer service and they said "not going to work".

The pins on most M&Ps are reversed from normal correct? Either way I will just put a caliper on each side and check the taper.
 
shawnfergie said:
I was going to go with the YHM clamp low profile block but I called YHM and spoke with customer service and they said "not going to work".
Click to expand...

I'm curious why they indicated it wouldn't work. That gas block is pretty trim, probably more so than a cut down A2.

Good Luck and good shooting. :D
 
shawnfergie said:
Hey everyone,

Question, I will be placing a VTAC 15" rail on my Sport and I have decided to remove the front sight block and shave it down. My logic is that I can still use the pins and have a gas block that will extremely solid.

I have access to milling machines and I'm wondering if anyone has profiled a gas block? Rather than using a dremel tool (my abilities are a bit shaky)... I can have my milling machine make quick work of the process. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Not an Mp15 but a cut down FSB none the less. I did it with a dremel cut off wheel to ge most of it off and then a file/bench grinder. Final finishing was done with a sanding wheel in the dremel. I think it looks pretty good.

264_523172675674_1449_n_zpsb80162f2.jpg


264_523172690644_2345_n_zps54f238b3.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info. guys.
I did not know about running a metal front sight. I was going to run a matching Magpul front sight.

I also did not know about "gas block height" sights, thanks Rastoff. I did know that the pins are tapered and have been driving them out from ejection port side to slide lock side.

The main reason I want to add a low profile gas block is to make removal of it easier to clean the barrel. I'm looking for a mounting system that won't have these pesky tapered pins. I have the ultra sonic cleaner JaPes shows in his "cleaning tools" thread and I throw everything I can in there. If I can easily separate the gas block, bbl, and upper, then the upper can go in the tank.
 
I don't see the need to remove a gas block for cleaning. Taper pins are the most secure and reliable method to mount a gas block.

I made a low pro with a hack saw, Dremel, and on a sander.
 
Thanks for the vid., JaPes.
I'm not looking to go that far.
The main reason I want to be able to remove the gas block is to clean the gas tube every ~500 rounds. I would only be doing a total tear down about once a year at this rate.

Btw, I got the second tapered pin out just now using an air hammer. Only took maybe .5 secs. and that pin was flush. I've been soaking it in all sorts of release agents and beat on it a few times every night after work for a week.
 
A gas tube will not require cleaning at 500 or 5000 rounds, you are creating a solution to a problem that does not exist. Should the tube fail for some unforeseeable reason replace it, they are cheap and normally last forever.
 
VolvoWrench...

For the most part, the gas tube cleans itself. The hot gasses blow all the crud back into the action. The most I've ever done is shoot some non chlorinated brake cleaner down the tube. I did that once to see what would blow out. I haven't done it again. I just shoot.
 
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