Renaissance Wax

Permit me to ask the question that I've seen asked a few times but never answered:

Does the Renaissance Wax melt off a gun that has been shot extensively at the range and has heated up? Does it need to be re-applied every time you shoot it?
 
That, or he was using automotive paste wax, which has polishing abrasives in it.

Or applied it with a scotchbrite pad?
I use a lot of Johnson's paste wax on tool surfaces, and since it's what I have around I use it on my guns too. Guns that sit, guns that get shot regularly, and the ones that get carried.

Enjoy!
 
I too use Johnson's paste wax on tools, drill bits, saw blades to protect and to lubricate when cutting. Great lubricant on saw and drill press tables since it contains no silicone like some of the table sprays made for bench tools (doesn't interfere with later finishing the way silicone does).

A lot of musicians I know use paste wax on the back of a guitar or bass or upright bass necks. Lots of them remove the lacquer or don't finish it to begin with, and use the paste wax as the finish. Add to it any time months, years, decades later. Can't crack or develop "spider web" fractures the way nitro lacquer does.

I just built a reloading bench from masonite topped plywood and poplar edging. Finished the entire thing in Johnson's. No oil, no shellac, no poly etc. Nice low sheen. Very mild amber "toning down" of the lighter color wood. Leaves a surface that is smooth but still has enough matte to it so that tools like drill bits, runaway grains of ball powder, cartridges etc don't roll all over the place.


Sgt Lumpy
 
As I earlier said, I use Johnson's paste wax on many things, both steel and wood. This has been several years back, but I used it once as the primary finish on a walnut .22 rifle stock that was looking fairly sorry. I stripped off the original finish with acetone, and then applied several coats of JPW over a period of time. It looks fine. I don't see why neutral shoe polish wouldn't work as well. Wax is wax.
 
Every gun in the John Browning museum gets a coat once a month,,(I was there watching and is how i discovered it) and reading other reviews of the wax I've learned it is used extensively by the smithsonian institute on their furniture and firearms ,,,,good enough for me,,,i have my whole collection "waxed" as well as the screen on the iPad I'm currently typing on
 
Ren Wax is all I've ever used and it does a great job of preserving both the metal and the wood stocks, like this one :)
Chuck

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Every gun in the John Browning museum gets a coat once a month,,(I was there watching and is how i discovered it) and reading other reviews of the wax I've learned it is used extensively by the smithsonian institute on their furniture and firearms ,,,,good enough for me,,,i have my whole collection "waxed" as well as the screen on the iPad I'm currently typing on

Just tried it on my pad and phone.Works great.
 
I use Ren Wax sometimes on old military leather items. If they made it in a spray can I'd probably use it more often. I have never used it on my firearms, I use a good gun oil and wipe it down leaving the surface with a very thin film. To get a high luster finish on guns I sometimes use Ballistol.

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Boy, did I find that out the hard way! And on two custom Colt 1911s, no less.

If you clean a gun and apply a light coat of any descent gun oil and the gun is rusted in only a month...... I would have to say that you are storing the guns in a very damp and humid environment. If that's the case, oil or wax won't solve the problem, but a dehumidifier or golden rid in the safe might.
Just saying..........
 
If you clean a gun and apply a light coat of any descent gun oil and the gun is rusted in only a month...... I would have to say that you are storing the guns in a very damp and humid environment. If that's the case, oil or wax won't solve the problem, but a dehumidifier or golden rid in the safe might.
Just saying..........
It wasn't just a month, and it was thirty years ago.
 
Microcrystalin waxes such as Renaissance, are an industrial standard for museum conservators for a wide range of items, including firearms. Waxes are ideal for metal surfaces as a hard protective barrier to moisture and acids (fingerprints). As a museum curator, I've used either Johnson's (high in carnuba) or Renaissance for years with no negative results.
 
As I said, I use Johnson's, and have never had an instance of a waxed gun rusting. But where I live, the relative humidity is low most of the time. Steel doesn't rust much until the relative humidity exceeds 50%.
 
ren wax and options on rust prevention

I use ren wax on my "collector" guns that dont get shot and
after having my shooter guns get a little surface rust since humidity was present after I handled them. I now run a dehumidifier in the room where the shooter guns are (humidity is 40 or lower now) and I spray on them Brownell Rust Preventive no 2 and rust has not reappeared. The brownells RP 2
displaces moisture and remains on the surface for a long time.
 
I use ren wax on my "collector" guns that dont get shot and
after having my shooter guns get a little surface rust since humidity was present after I handled them. I now run a dehumidifier in the room where the shooter guns are (humidity is 40 or lower now) and I spray on them Brownell Rust Preventive no 2 and rust has not reappeared. The brownells RP 2
displaces moisture and remains on the surface for a long time.

Since I am NOT a Brownell's employee or affiliate I can't swear to this, BUT I do believe that the Brownell's RP-2 is nothing more than private labeled RIG #2 Oil which as some here may know is my all time FAVORITE gun juice! I have even asked Frank Brownell personally and he said "no comment". Either product is great though.........
 
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