Ruger guy has question about 640

espresso

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I love my gp100 and sp101 but have been lusting over a S&W 640 for years I think I just have to have one. If I get one it would be my first S&W even though I've shot 4 or 5 over the years but never a 640. Couple of questions...

Is the 640 pretty much all stainless including the trigger components, cylinder release and most everything under the side plate?

Will a 640 .357 fit the same holsters as the 642?

Just thinking about CC options as this would be the primary use if I get one

Thanks
 
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My 640 magnum frame fits the same Lobo Enhanced Pancake holster that I originally ordered for my 442 (although I anticipated getting a magnum frame some day, and had Ray make the holster long enough to cover the extra 1/4 inch of barrel.) My pre-magnum frame 49 fits fine too.
 
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I've always had to be a little careful with holsters. The IWB suede pouch rigs I adore seem to fit pretty much anything in a specific (e.g. snubs) range. Some belt rigs may be crafted for a certain gun (say a 642 .38Sp) and a larger 640 may not fit. My 360 will not fit in certain J-frame rigs because the top strap is thicker than other Js I own. It happens!

Also, don't forget holsters in LGS racks can dry out if they've been sitting a while. Common problem here in the desert. All this has led me to rely in the IWB suede pouch designs.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
On the older 640's (no dash and -1's.) have forged hammer's and triggers with most everything else being stainless steel. On the -2's and newer they have MIM internals with stainless steel frames, barrels, cranes and cylinders. S&W got away from using stainless steel triggers and hammers in the stainless revolvers after some problems with them. (Can't remember what the problems were and when they changed but it was before the 640's came out.)

It should fit 642 holster but will most likely be tight around the barrel and the barrel will stick out just a bit. Granted most holsters I've seen around here in shops seem to have the 642 listed as well as the 640 with longer barrels, so it seems they are mostly made for the longer barreled 640 but since more people carry 642's they list them as well.
 
...S&W got away from using stainless steel triggers and hammers in the stainless revolvers after some problems with them. (Can't remember what the problems were and when they changed but it was before the 640's came out.)...
Yep; mid-to-late 1960s, brief foray into stainless steel hammers and triggers quickly changed to flash chromed carbon; no official reason given that I'm aware of, but it's generally presumed the stainless sears didn't hold their angle long.
 
I vote for a no dash .38 unless you have other .357's already. Had one and it was very nice. A -1 wouldn't be bad either though. Guess you could get one of each. :D
 
FWIW in your considerations, the magnum model has a 1/4" longer barrel and an ejector rod shroud, which adds a tiny bit of weight (slightly less recoil). But most important, IMHO, it adds 1/4" to the ejector rod throw, which will almost completely extract a 38 Special case, something the shorter 38 Special model doesn't do. If I ever have to reload in a hurry I'd rather have the longer ejection stroke than the shorter one - I almost never have empties hang up on ejection from the magnum 640, but do have hangups with my 38 Special J frames from time to time.
 
I like my 640 very much. I think you will like it. Just bought a 640 Pro Series and it is one of my favorite guns.
 
I'm a ruger guy for four one half decades. The ruger revolvers are the strongest out there. I feed mine stout Magnum loads with no problems. Your not going to do that to a s&w.

Don't feed your s&w stout or +p loads. Keep it with normal loads.

I ccw a ruger police service six in 357 2 3/4" barrel in stainless since '76 on and off. Between the 44 hawk's. Great gun Mack truck strong.

I'm new to s&w and love the Magnum N frames. But there range guns only.
 
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Get an airweight, or airlight, j frame. You will love carrying it compared to your SP101. Don't go out of your way to get a .357, they are not comfortable to shoot. 38+p is plenty in these guns.

After you shoot the j frame, your SP101 will feel like a GP100
 
My 640 is still here but the 642 ported is carried a lot more.
It is a bit lighter for pocket carry and both go with me some trips.
Nothing like a NY reload. :)
The 640 in a Bianchi 9R and 642 in a pocket or owb.

Good luck in your choice.
I couldn't choose so, the 642 , 640 and 49 still in the safe NIB.

Here is a good link.

The Snubnose Files Recommended Links
 
Get an airweight, or airlight, j frame. You will love carrying it compared to your SP101. Don't go out of your way to get a .357, they are not comfortable to shoot. 38+p is plenty in these guns.

After you shoot the j frame, your SP101 will feel like a GP100

Will rarely shoot .357 if I go that route but would be nice to have a longer ejector rod and have zero chance of crimp jumping a 38sp+p in the longer chamber.

I've gone back and forth with the 642 vs 640 thing. I am not a pocket carry person so don't think the extra weight of the 640 will be noticed too much if belt carried.......but I could be wrong on this. Also maybe the reason I don't ever pocket carry is because I never had a small/light enough gun to do it with.

I definitely like all the things that come with a 640, SS finish, less recoil shooting .38's, supposedly better trigger.

decisions decisions......
 
I pocket carry my j-frames, or use a Barami hip grip for Mexican carry. Neither is an option with the SP101. The j-frame on a belt I find is the same as my SP101, but find I can carry something bigger on my belt than the SP101.

I would not go without a lightweight jframe, black centennial. The 442 is the best value, the 340pd is the best, the MP340 the middle but with the best sights. I would recommend the M&P.

My SP101 is my least carried carry gun. Too big & heavy for pocket carry, and too small for belt carry.
 
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comparison001_zps5bb22161.jpg
 
Will rarely shoot .357 if I go that route but would be nice to have a longer ejector rod

decisions decisions......

On my guns, the .38 and .357 have the same barrel length and ejector. The .357 is a much nicer gun, but cost more than twice what the .38 did.

You should be able to get a new ..38special 442 no lock for around $400 new, and .38+p is plenty in these guns.
 
The new model smith model 60 is a consideration. Still a j frame but 357 just a bit heavier than the 640. We have a 60, 442 and 642ls. All work great for carry and lighter than the sp101.
 
There is no need to avoid the use of +P .38 Special ammo in a 640 no-dash, much less the magnum version, unless you shoot the revolver an enormous amount of it. Most owners I know practice with standard-velocity ammunition and carry +P, as I do, but it's very unlikely you'll harm the gun. The steel J's are tough little buggers.
 
I have a 640 Pro. It is cut for moon clips (which I don't use) and supplied with what I consider the finest sights ever put on a J-frame.

I would spend for the Pro just to get the sights.

Years ago most holsters for J-frames used a snap retention that went over the hammer. Those holsters did not work with the hammer shrouded or enclosed guns.

Lately all the holsters seem to be either friction retained or have a retention that goes over the trigger guard. Those will work fine.

I have a strong-side Galco and a cross draw Galco and both work fine with the 640 Pro.
 
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