S&W 38 information Please

[Mississippi Mike]

Hello everyone.... First post and new member.
I just purchased a S&W 38 at the local gun shop. I can't find a model number anywhere. The serial number is only numbers... no letters. The SN is 427463. See picture below.
Any info would be GREATLY appreciated (YOM, model number, etc)

 

[Mississippi Mike]

If this helps any, there is a series of patent dates on top of the barrel. The last date is Dec. 29. 14

 

[Mississippi Mike]

This is all there is to the SN. Same number is on the cylinder also.

 

[Art Doc]

I'm no expert but I think it's a Military & Police Model from the mid to late 1920s. I believe those stocks are correct for a 1920s era gun. This model would evolve into the Model 10 in 1957 when model numbers were assigned.

If mechanically sound it should be OK with standard pressure ammo.

The classic S&W revolver. Enjoy it.

 

[DWalt]

It's an M&P from ca. 1923. Grips are correct for the 1920s. It should be safe to shoot. Model numbering did not start until 1957.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

Thanks so much for the replies. The pistol seems sound and has good rifling in the barrel.
My son has a new M&P.... he will get a real kick out of seeing my M&P.

 

[383 magnum]

That should make a great shooter! I have a six-inch barreled made in about 1925.

 

[JP@AK]

there is a series of patent dates on top of the barrel. The last date is Dec. 29. 14

That patent date denotes an internal change that added a leaf spring hammer block to the mechanism. This was the last significant internal change to the M&P series of K frame revolvers until late 1945, when the hammer block was changed again, this time to a sliding type.

Same number is on the cylinder also.

Yes. The same number should also be found on the flat part of the bottom of the barrel. It probably has a B in front of it in that location. It is also found on the underside of the extractor star and the rear face of the yoke (this one is very hard to see). Finally, you should be able to see the number on the inside of the right grip panel. It may be written with a pencil or it may be impressed in the wood. In the case of your gun, it is probably penciled in.

I think DWalt has nailed the approximate date for shipment of your .38 M&P. It fits the serial number and the shape of the extractor rod knob (MERK). If you look on the right side of the frame, you should see Made in U.S.A. stamped below the cylinder. This puts it after about 1922.

Also, for what it's worth, your revolver has a 5" barrel. In my personal opinion, this is the best length for the barrel on one of these guns.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

WOW, thanks for all that great information Jack!
I think I am really going to enjoy this pistol.

Mike

 

[larryschwartz]

Good luck finding ammo for it. If it is like my brothers Lend Lease British Service Revolver (BSR) and only takes .38 S&W ammo the .38 Special ammo will be too long for the cylinder.

 

[OFT II]

Good luck finding ammo for it. If it is like my brothers Lend Lease British Service Revolver (BSR) and only takes .38 S&W ammo the .38 Special ammo will be too long for the cylinder.

That one will take the 38 Special.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

I did get some some 38 special ammo so I am glad to know the ammo will fit the chamber.

LOL

 

[Mississippi Mike]

I just got a reply from S&W and the historian said the pistol is a ".38 Military and Police model of 1905 4th change". He also said it was shipped from the factory in December 1922.
SO you guys hit the YOM right o the money.

Mike

 

[gordonrick]

Mike, Nice find! I really like the old ones. I can't see from the pictures, but does yours have the flat top strap / square rear sight notch? I've seen a couple of different time frames reported for when that happened.

Jack, I very humbly submit one minor addendum. This one would have the 1st type hammer block which was changed again in 1926 (or so) at approximately SN 500000. The first style hammer block was actuated by a plunger and spring in the side plate which also served to provide tension on the hand in lieu of a spring in the trigger. After 1926, and until 1945, the hammer block was actuated by a ramp in the hand and a tab on the hammer block. Not a big deal until you try finding a replacement for a broken one!

Rick

 

[JP@AK]

Well, Rick, thanks a lot. You're going to drive me back to Neal & Jinks for a refresher course. Memory ain't what it used to be . . .

 

[Skeetr57]

Rick: Thanks for the date of change on the type of hammer block. I knew that they changed, but had never heard when. It is interesting that the first type conforms to the Dec29 '14 patent, but the second type doesn't have a different patent date, although it works differently.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

Here is a shot of the top strap on the frame.
I hope this answers your questions.

 

[DCWilson]

MM, Welcome to the Forum,. You can't make a better entry than with a classic S&W that is now in its tenth decade of service.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

Here is a shot looking at the hand with the side plate off. The hand has no spring tension as Rick said. You can move the hand out of position and just pick it up off the rest of the mechanism.

 

[Mississippi Mike]

Thanks for the welcome David!