S&W 686 -- Which Barrel?

i have both 4 and six inch, as far as accuracy and capacity 6 vs 7 no difference. when i shoot the 4 in i use the rubber grips when i shoot the six i can use the wood grips that should give you some idea of the recoil difference. but, and there is always a but the six inch weighs about six oz more and my arms get tired faster
 
4" works for all games. Use it for USPSA, Icore, IDPA. With practise, the 6" sight plane advantage is irrelevant short of 50 yards and if you are doing a lot of 50 yard shots you will want a custom barreled revolver regardless with different sights entirely.
 
A 4" revolver is a lot easier to use from a belt holster than one with a 6" barrel, and is about as long as you can use for concealed carry. If you have a CCW permit, there are a lot more places you can travel than with open carry, including many state and national parks, rest stops and urban areas.

A 6" barrel in an high-rise holster (e.g., a Bianchi BHL) will have the back of your thumb in your armpit by the time it clears leather. The best way to carry it in the field is in a shoulder holster (e.g., Alessi Fieldmaster), cross-draw, or in a western style holster with a drop (e.g., Tom Threepersons style). Of these, only the shoulder holster offers a reasonable degree of concealment.

For a 686 4", I have an IWB (Grizzle SDR) and an Alessi CQC "pancake" OWB on order. The Alessi will conceal well under a sweatshirt or mid-length jacket.

The key to recoil control (along with practice) is a good set of grips. I prefer wood grips like Ahrends combat-style (finger groove) or Hogue. You get good control with a little "give" compared to rubber, and wood doesn't stick to your clothing.

You lose about 75 fps compared to a 6" barrel, and the accuracy is a wash in my experience. I can shoot a 3" (or better) group at 7 yards with either barrel.
 
I had the same problem - couldn't decide between 4" and 6" so I bought the 4" 686 then eventually picked up a mint 586 with 6" barrel. I love them both - equally.
 
The six shot 686 .357 mag is nice for nostalgia, but there is no good reason not to give yourself the small advantage of the the 7 shot cylinder since it's the same weight and size and costs only slightly more.

One inexcusable design flaw which S&W continues to perpetrate in its 6 shot cylinders is the location of the cylinder stop notch in the thinnest part of the cylinder. On a 7 shot cylinder, the notch should be located near the strongest part of the cylinder: between the chambers. This should (at least theoretically) make the cylinder stronger and more able to resist an accidental high pressure event.

The 4" barrel is much handier and easier to carry in a holster than a 6". The 5" is also an excellent choice. It gives you most of the advantages of a 6" but is almost as handy as a 4".
 
Since you'll be using this gun for home defense and personal range time with your wife, why would you want fewer rounds?

Get the seven round cylinder.

You could always load it with less, but why would you? I love my 686+ and got it because it held seven rounds.

You seem to want the 4", so get it. It clears leather easier than the 6", and it's less nose heavy. Might be handier in an emergency.

Mine is 3" and it shoots fine. Either way, you'll love it.
 
FWIW Raspy, I'm not a fan of a 6 shooter that isn't a ... well... a six shooter.

If it's right for you, good deal, but some of old dinosaurs like 'em holding 6.
 
which to buy

i have two dan wession packs, you can change barrels from 2" to 15" if you want look on armslist, they dont make them anymore but you can buy after market EWK for barrels.
 
This is a 3 year old thread.
After much good advice, the Original Poster said he was going with the 4 inch barrel.
I suspect he and his wife have many thousand rounds thru it by now and have enjoyed it very much.
 
Last edited:
Why not compromise and meet in the middle. I bought a 686 Plus Pro Series which is a 5" barrel and love it. It's not nose heavy because it has a slab barrel that shaves off extra weight. It's overall weight is about the same as a regular 4" 686 so it handles recoil well. Best of all, it's a seven shot which gives you an extra round for self defense. It has a great trigger job for both double action and especially single action. And the cost is about the same as a regular 686. Forgot to mention that the extra inch provides a little longer site radius. This is one accurate gun. Regards, Jim
 
Last edited:
And yet another thread resurrection

I pondered 6" vs 4.2" ( in Canada you have to be 'grandfathered' to own <4" barrelled pistols) and went for 4.2"

Hope it's as much fun at the range as I'm expecting !!
 
I started out with a 586 no dash that came from a trade. It is a 4" I did like it so well that I got a 6" 686-3, within 6 months. Both are for range use. On my particular guns, the 586 seems (to me) to have a better trigger. The 6" 686, seems to be a little more accurate. My disclaimer.... IF I could have only have 1, would be the 4 incher. I RARELY shoot any .357 rounds. Shoot plenty of .38 hand loads. Bob
 
I look for six inch barrels, or longer, as I feel more confidant of my accuracy with them. I do plan on getting a snubby 357 for carry at some point.
 
My opinion is the 4" L-frame is about the best overall length for a variety of uses from range work, to home defense, to possibly even carry, so if I could only have one it would be the 4". HOWEVER, for what it is worth, I do shoot slightly more accurately with my 6" than with my 4" but the difference is minimal and with an "n of one" statistically insignificant.

I personally like the 7-shot plus models, although I know many revolver purists prefer the 6-shooters. Both are good.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top