From the above links I found this video explaining forged vs cast vs MIM
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFRBmLbkNGA[/ame]
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFRBmLbkNGA[/ame]
Extractor stars wear out?
Because the GP100 is cheaper to manufacture.
As far as the cast vs forged debate, there is a reason why there is Ruger only loads available from Underwood, BB, DT, and reloading manuals.
Would you please cite a reputable source (ammo mfr or reloading manual) of your claim that there is such a thing as .357 magnum loads for Rugers only?
If you can't, then please stop posting it in threads about medium-frame .357s.
Yes, there is such a thing as .45 Colt loads for stronger, more modern revolvers. But as near as I can tell, "Ruger-only" .357 ammo is a myth.
Forging does not cause a "tighter" grain structure.
Steel used in investment castings will have very coarse grain cause by the temps needed to pour metal. But, that investment casting can be normalized just like a forging to reduce its grain size.
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/u/JimMarch's review of the Ruger GP100
u/nabaker
3 million years from now, an intelligent upright descendant of the modern cockroach will be able to dig up a stainless GP100, put new springs in it, roll up some ammo and blow away another intelligent upright cockroach that "did him wrong". true
Seriously, the GP100 is rock-solid tough. It's very similar in size/task/etc. to the L-frame S&Ws like the 686, and about $200 cheaper. The S&W will probably have a slightly better out-of-the-box trigger and might be a hair more accurate, but the differences will be minor.true
The GP100 has no sideplates that can blow out, it has a firm second latch at the crane that locks the cylinder in place out there and is otherwise tougher than a similar S&W. The GP100 was also designed to be field-stripped by the user. The manual tells you how, and under one of the grip panels is a steel rod meant to be used as a takedown tool. This can be a major advantage in rough country or anywhere you're around salt water; if the gun is exposed to mud, seawater or anything else nasty you can do a full takedown and cleanup before any damage sets in.I am unaware of ANY instance where a S&W sie plate "blew out" please give cited examples. Regarding the takedown of Rugers, unless you have a metal object to push on the spring of the Ruger all you are gonna do with that little pin is to take out the hammer. BUt if you have a screwdriver or something to push in the spring, I agree that the takedown of the Ruger for cleaning is superior than the Smith-but you are stil not gonna dissassemble the trigger group in the wild now are you
Full takedown of an S&W is a lot messier and S&W considers it a "gunsmith proposition". You CAN do it, but you need more tools and a decent book on S&W innards. Ruger on the other hand tells you right in the manual how to do a total takedown, and if you lose that the manual is available as a free PDF on Ruger's site.true but the only really specialized tool you really need for a Smith is that little thingy for the rebound spring thingy
This easy takedown also means it can be home-brew gunsmithed, including full spring kit upgrades to help the trigger pull or fine-polishing the SIDES of the hammer and trigger surfaces inside, to reduce friction (again, improving the trigger feel for cheap, just some "sweat equity" involved). DO NOT mess with the sear surfaces (the places where the hammer and trigger make contact) unless you know what you're doing.true
A spring kit will include two or three levels of mainspring tension. The best possible accuracy happens when you use a medium or even heavy spring and mirror-polish the gun's innards until you get a dead smooth feel. The best DA revolver trigger I've ever felt period was a GP100 that had lived as a range rental for about a decade, had seen a really massive round count, was still in perfect shape and just from repeated fire, had a dead smooth trigger people would pay big bucks for if applied to anything else.opinion but not unsubstantiated however unable to ascertain the truthfullness or lack thereof
The GP100 is the smallest "real 357" in that you can shoot balls-out full-house stuff by Buffalo Bore, Grizzly Ammo or Doubletap Ammo in large doses if you want, and be able to control that sort of load one-handed. Any smaller size 357 and trust me, you can't.true as far as the one handed issue but using two hands one CAN shoot these loads out of a Smith-you just have to use two hands and have a high tolerance for pain