S&W M5906 diy?

prochi2k

Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2005
Messages
349
Reaction score
318
Location
Central Kentucky
Following a couple of threads about M5906 modifications by BMCM and guzzitaco, I got motivated to take my police trade-in M5906 out and kinda just give it a look and see if I'd like it more if it had a different finish or some such.
qGSTepH.jpg

gplEXzC.jpg


I thought to myself, hmm, maybe a mirror finish here and cold bluing there? Nice, I'll do that.
So, I took my brand-new sight pusher out, took the gun all apart, hand cleaned her, and here's where I am right now: unsure of what to do next.
Bje5R8v.jpg
DJUNKVC.jpg
GLQwEPy.jpg


I know I'm not putting her back to how she was, nor do I want her to look like new (with bead blast), but I also don't want to permanently ruin her looks.

A question I have is that can "cold bluing" be reversed? Can mistakes like smudges be easily corrected? Sorry if it sounds like a totally stupid question but I'd like to hear some sound advice before do something I might regret.

Btw, I have zip experience when it comes to this kind of stuff but have a pretty good way with following instructions.

So any advice or suggestions?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Wow, you're way more organized than me. I just dump all the bits in a bucket.

Cold blueing or any blueing for that matter only works on carbon steel. That gizmo you have there is 410 stainless so blueing won't take on that. Your choices are an applied coating (spray paint), plated finish (hard chrome or nickel), or a form of case hardening known as salt bath nitriding (melonite, isonite, tenifer, nitron et. al.), or black oxide finish (a chemical/acid dip similar to bluing but for stainless alloys).

I'm probably gonna send mine off for nitriding once I'm done fiddling with the fiddly bits.

For what it's worth, nitriding is not a coating. It is a case hardening process wherein the steel parts are immersed in a bath of molten cyanide salts through which nitrogen gas is bubbled. The finished part is left with a supremely hard satin black surface layer.

Then again, there's nothing wrong with leaving it alone or perhaps freshen up the finish with a mixed media blast. The secret sauce for replicating the factory finish is this stuff here...
McMaster-Carr
50 psi is where I run my cabinet.

For blasting you'll want to fashion a cork of sorts to protect the front face and inside bore of the barrel bushing from the abrasive media.

Cheers
Bill
 
Bluing, either hot or cold, doesn't work on stainless steel. If you want contrasting colors, you can either swap in some carbon steel parts or you could look into something like black chrome plating or nitriding, expect to pay a premium for plating. Products like Ceracoat and KG-Gunkote can be used to "paint" stainless steel.

The easiest way to create contrast with stainless steel is to use media blasting and varying degrees of metal polishing to create varying degrees of shine.
 
Sorry, but that's just me. You have what looks like a nice specimen and not what I would consider a candidate for refinish or modification. Maybe start slowly with a different grip, then swap stainless controls for blued, or swap blued hammer/trigger for stainless? It can be interesting to try different combinations to find something that has a sharp look that appeals to you.

I'll bet a blued slide from a 5904 could be installed and you'd have a pretty sweet 2-tone pistol.

You did a great job with disassembly! My luck, I would end up missing a few springs or pins when all was said and done. You say you have zip experience but I admire your can-do attitude. Love to hear what ideas other members have.

Todd
 
He certainly wont be ruining an extremely common and easily replaced 5906. S&W made a blue million of them, and wanting his to be different wont ruin a thing. If you want YOUR 5906 kept stock, you should keep YOUR pistol stock.
I admire the work people do, when they take their time and do a nice job it is always a treat to see what some will do with their guns.
I recommend melonite if you want it black. Always comes back looking mighty slick.
 
some options

Hi Prochi2k,

I agree with Squidsix...it is your gun, if you would like to modify it to serve a specific purpose and you think is the right fit...then do it...

I like BMCM comment...maybe a blasting job will restore to its original glory...

there is a great thread about blasting:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...testing-5906-frame.html?417421=#post138383923

I built a "rudimentary" blasting cabinet, since I didn't want to waste the media. (I posted some pics in my SSV Frankengun thread...if need help PM me.) I strongly suggest you wear a breathing mask and googles if you are going to media blast.

Another thing to consider in a M5906 is perhaps a trigger job. For this perhaps is a good idea to send it to a gunsmith. Some 3rd gens have a very gritty trigger that benefits from stoning the radius os the hammer, BMCM has a couple of threads about the do's and don't on this subject. I suggest you read them.

If you want a two tone gun, finding a M5904 or a M6904 slide could be an options. Years ago I didn't like two tone guns...today I am obsessed with them...:rolleyes:

enjoy your project...:)

PS: forget the trigger job...you have MIM parts...your trigger must be nice and smooth...
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for the good info and advice!
Scratch bluing then!
It's a bummer tho, Here I thought I'd end up with a Pinto looking M5906, lol!
I'm still searching for ideas on what to do. I'm definitely not putting her back to her old looks, of that I'm positive, and paint is not an option.
I don't know, I might be stuck here for a while.
 
Keep us posted! In the end it's yours to do with as you please of course. I had suggested parts replacement to start with over refinishing/modification since it's simple, and can always be reversed if you want with no adverse affects on the gun. Plus, you'll always have the value of the parts you bought for it.

Refinishing and/or modification can get expensive, time consuming, and frustrating even for the experienced. But hey, if you love to tinker and have the equipment and know-how, you can learn a lot, hone your skills, and end up with something really unique you can be proud of! Unfortunately for every success story I'm sure there are at least as many stories of "tinkerers remorse".
 
Thanks everyone for the good info and advice!
Scratch bluing then!
It's a bummer tho, Here I thought I'd end up with a Pinto looking M5906, lol!
I'm still searching for ideas on what to do. I'm definitely not putting her back to her old looks, of that I'm positive, and paint is not an option.
I don't know, I might be stuck here for a while.

If you want to create a pinto look, check out having it CeraKoted, the possibilities are endless. Just do a Google search on "firearm cerakote services" and check out the galleries of the various sites.
 
Last edited:
If you want to create a pinto look, check out having it CeraKoted, the possibilities are endless. Just do a Google search on "firearm cerakote services" and check out the galleries of the various sites.

I don't think I'm going to go that way. I've tried CeraKote on an AR before and it was okay, but I felt like it's meant for a more rugged application, maybe it's just me.
Thanks for the suggestion tho!
 
Last edited:
Several years ago I had my CZ P-09 slide milled for an RDS ,
I wanted to change things up a little and have them cerakote titanium color on the slide.
After quite a bit of use over about a year, in and out of a Kydex holster at the range during self defense target practice and training, slide shows virtually no wear.
When I self defense target practice, I draw from a holster every two shots, so you can just imagine how many times this pistol has been in and out of the Kydex holster. I know I've gone through at least 2000 rounds oh, so that equates to 1000 times in and out of the holster.
If you want closer pictures of the slide I can do that.
 

Attachments

  • 2017-11-26 08.10.33.jpg
    2017-11-26 08.10.33.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 51
  • 20181219_145902.jpg
    20181219_145902.jpg
    49.2 KB · Views: 50
There are lots of coating treatments available. I am also looking at doing something with one of my many project S&W semi's that are low budget. 910, 457, and beat 5946TSW I just aquired. I am also leaning toward Cerakoting the 910 as the gunsmith that also performs this service is local. Experimenting so to speak. You have a lot of advice. Pick one and don't look back. 5906 pistols are a dime a dozen. If you really hate it you can sell it, redo it (maybe) or chalk it up to a project that taught you something. I am all for preserving guns in original condition but only if it's warranted. I would do that to a Minty pre model 39 or even a minty 39-2.
 
Last edited:
He certainly wont be ruining an extremely common and easily replaced 5906. S&W made a blue million of them, and wanting his to be different wont ruin a thing. If you want YOUR 5906 kept stock, you should keep YOUR pistol stock.
I admire the work people do, when they take their time and do a nice job it is always a treat to see what some will do with their guns.
I recommend melonite if you want it black. Always comes back looking mighty slick.

You're right, he won't. He also asked for opinions, so that's what he's going to get.
 
I wanted to mix it up a bit on a 645 I had, different blasting media can give quite a contrast. The attach post shows 220 white aluminum oxide at 60psi (if I remember correctly). If you turn the pressure up a bit, you might be able to get it darker.

645 before and after
That project turned out great.
 
Back
Top