S&W Victory -good deal?

[cmichini]

Howdy gents:
Local online forum has an ad for a S&W M&P .38 special for sale. I don't know much about them. I'm looking for a solid 38 to use as a range gun and to keep bedside, as the wife doesn't like the more complicated manual of arms autoloaders have. Plus I always want another S&W wheel gun.

Description:

S&W M&P 38 Special.
4" barrel, very good condition, pre-victory model, approx 1945 production date, diamond grips. Not Victory marked but is fitted with lanyard hole. ....... $400

There are a couple of pix that are a little dark but cosmetically looks okay. I'll start a conversation to get more condition details, etc. But what are people's reaction to the piece/price, and maybe key questions to ask other than the obvious.

All input appreciated.

 

[Targets Guy]

Not an expert on Victorys; some will be along soon I'm sure. If it is in good condition that is not a terrible price.

I'm a little concerned about the write up however. "pre-Victory model" approx 1945 doesn't ring quite right.

I am not aware of any pre-victory models being produced in 1945. Maybe 1945 is a typo.

Photo and serial number would go a long way in solving this mystery.

 

[diyj98]

I agree "pre Victory model" and "1945" don't seem to go together.

 

[Targets Guy]

Between 1899 and 1942 S&W produced 1,000,000 .38 Military & Police (K-frame) revolvers; s/n between 1 and 999,999.

The second million was made btw 1942 -1948. The fixed sighted Victory models consumed all production from 1942 (s/n V1) through the end of the war (8/27/45) and amounted to 811,119 units.

 

[cmichini]

I'll reach out and get serial number info and any markings.
Thanks!!!

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Here's a link to arm you with enough information to ask good questions.

http://www.coolgunsite.com/pistols/victory_model_smith_and_wesson.htm

Good luck,

Bob

 

[DWalt]

It is possible that the revolver in question is one of the SV-series Victories made only in 1945. The letter S is added to the V prefix to indicate that it was made with an improved hammer drop safety. Some number of SV-series revolvers made up from wartime components in S&W inventory were sold on the civilian market in the early months of 1946. Those had a commercial blued finish and checkered wood grips, not the smooth wood round-top grips of wartime production. They also had holes in the butt for a lanyard swivel, but most often those holes were plugged. Without more information it's not possible to say much about the revolver advertised. As always, you should know exactly what you are looking at before you even consider buying it. There are many essentially worthless Victories out there offered at ridiculous prices.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Here is what I would look for.


1. 4" or 5.5" barrel. Many folks don't measure muzzle to cylinder and give a short barrel length.
2. .38 S&W CTG vs. .38 S&W Special CTG on right side of barrel.
3. Finish condition whether blued or phosphated.
4. Timing, lockup, pushoff.


If a 5.5" barrel, it should say .38 S&W CTG on the barrel. It may have been reamed for .38 Special but cases will swell and crack. .38 S&W can still be shot but it is more expensive to buy. Value goes down significantly if this is the case. These British Service Revolvers were the primary pre-Victories since they were being made exclusively for the war effort and they consumed the factory production before 1942.



If 4" barrel, it should say .38 S&W Special CTG on the barrel. This configuration is not as prevalent in a pre-Victory as the BSRs. Should be in the 800K to 999K SN range. $400 is a decent price for one with very good finish condition. Here is my Victory in .38 Special and military grips. The gun you are looking at may have silver medallions, checkering and a diamond around the escutcheon.

 

[handejector]

1. 4" or 5.5" barrel. Many folks don't measure muzzle to cylinder and give a short barrel length.

If a 5.5" barrel, it should say .38 S&W CTG on the barrel.

There are no 5.5" barrels on the BSRs.
They were 4", 5", and 6".

 

[Absalom]

The seller obviously does not know what exactly he has and likely came up with the wartime year because of the lanyard swivel and the "pre-Victory" because there is no V. It could be any M&P with a swivel, although one of the guesses here is likely correct. We need the serial.

 

[ABPOS]

Without getting into the details on what kind of Victory it is, I would think that a K frame in good working order of any vintage is worth 400. So even if it doesn't turn out to be a genuine WWII Victory, I would still have no problem paying 4 bills for it. If it's a pre victory that would be a good deal and if it's not a victory and just an M&P it would be a good deal.

Or maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong. But I do believe that is the main question you are asking. You might have to stay with non plus P .38 for defense but that's doable.

 

[Absalom]

....
Or maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong. But I do believe that is the main question you are asking. You might have to stay with non plus P .38 for defense but that's doable.

You're right, that is what he is asking, but 400 for a used M&P is not a steal, and for a well-founded judgment call we do need to know what it is. For 400 you can find a nice all-original Victory or commercial M&P, so the OP is doing well to clarify just what that gun is beforehand.

 

[kwill1911]

The phrase "haircut over the phone" comes to mind.

 

[ABPOS]

You're right, that is what he is asking, but 400 for a used M&P is not a steal, and for a well-founded judgment call we do need to know what it is. For 400 you can find a nice all-original Victory or commercial M&P, so the OP is doing well to clarify just what that gun is beforehand.

Wow, they are really that cheap? I stand corrected. In my neck of the woods I'd be doing good to get a decent model 10 for 400. One is posted on Armslist right now from a semi local place to me, for 395. It does look like it's in decent shape though.

You say not a steal, but am I correct in saying that pretty much any K frame in working order wouldn't be a BAD deal at 400. I mean as long as it's not beat too bad. In nice shape. Locks up and all that. I'm meaning your standard Model 10 / M&P etc K frame. Nothing wonky. ???

 

[dockmurgw]

If it floats your boat, you can buy it without relying on your fellow citizen to support you, and your not keeping a balance sheet of purchase price vs. value...then I say buy it and be happy. ESPECIALLY if the wife likes it!

 

[cmichini]

If it floats your boat, you can buy it without relying on your fellow citizen to support you, and your not keeping a balance sheet of purchase price vs. value...then I say buy it and be happy. ESPECIALLY if the wife likes it!

Ha!. For the win. lol.
I'd be after it just for a shooter, but if it had other intrinsic features making it possibly easier to sell later (IF I ever went there), would be a bonus.

I'll see what the seller says in his reply. There's a show locally this weekend so maybe that itch will get scratched across a show table..

Thanks to all for the insight on possibilities, pitfalls, etc.
It's what makes this place truly special.

 

[Targets Guy]

I bought this one a year ago on Gunbroker. Surface rust that my trusty penny is attacking. Bore is clean, trigger is smooth, locks up nice and shoots better than me.

$300. Shipped 12/43.

 

[jmace57]

If I was not specifically looking for a historical revolver - one that the OP states is for the range and nightstand - I would not go for a Victory model. You can get a Model 10 for significantly less. You can find pretty nice Model 10s for $250-$300. The LE trade-ins show up periodically at Bud's and other places in that range.

 

[Targets Guy]

I just got a Model 10-10 LE trade in with holster, speed loaders with holsters for $345. I was the only bidder. Haven't shot it yet. Too cold in my shed to clean guns right now.

 

[Waveski]

What is the finish?
This here's one of them "we be speculating without enough information" kinda threads.

Is it a good deal? Is WHAT a good deal?
We don't know what what is.