Scratched the barel now what?
- Thread starter pershing
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Why did you feel the need to remove a perfectly good flash hider? And, how did you do it to end up with that result?
To answer your question, I am not sure what you mean by "apply the re-blueing stuff on it."
To answer your question, I am not sure what you mean by "apply the re-blueing stuff on it."
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Majorlk
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Just throw a barrel shroud on it and you'll never see the damage. 
Or re-blue.
Or re-blue.
Dirt Dart
Member
Get yourself some Brownell's Oxpho-Blue creme. You won't be able to match the finish, but the color will be pretty close. Or, like the Major said, cover it up with an extended shroud or flash hider.
Just as a heads up: if your going to attempt removing a flash hider, I would recommend you get yourself a good 3/4" thin machinist's crowfoot socket and a long 3/8 drive breaker bar. Or a good armorer's tool and a length of pipe for a breaker bar.
Also, some high temp polymide tape for the barrel is always a good precaution against slips. I always wrap my barrels to guard against the latter, and in case I have to heat the flash hider to get it off.
Just as a heads up: if your going to attempt removing a flash hider, I would recommend you get yourself a good 3/4" thin machinist's crowfoot socket and a long 3/8 drive breaker bar. Or a good armorer's tool and a length of pipe for a breaker bar.
Also, some high temp polymide tape for the barrel is always a good precaution against slips. I always wrap my barrels to guard against the latter, and in case I have to heat the flash hider to get it off.
BlueLizard
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Just throw a barrel shroud on it and you'll never see the damage.
S'what I'm planning to do!
roadkill45
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did it slip in your vise where you had it clamped? that's the only way i can see it way down there. i put my barrel in my vice as close as the hider as possible and use a standard whatever size box end wrench, heat the **** out of the hider with a propane torch...comes right off.
i read a lot here that people are having a hard time getting theses off. i wonder if they changed to a stronger locktite at the factory.
i read a lot here that people are having a hard time getting theses off. i wonder if they changed to a stronger locktite at the factory.
Majorlk
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That's a real possibility. Anything stronger than Blue can be a dog to get off; Heat is virtually always required.
Also, Loctite makes Loctite CleanUp Solvent to disolve the set up stuff.
It contains N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone. Comes in a 3 oz. bottle.
roadkill45
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on things like FH's i use a drop of clear fingernail polish, never had a problem....Glock front sites....Red/Black loctite!!
Bkreutz
US Veteran
Just shoot it, the appearance may bother you but nobody else is going to notice what your barrel looks like. (at least not at the range, other places IDK)
Gunslinger808
Member
Yeah, I had to heat mine to get it off, it was still a bugger!
As to the marks, just get some Birchwood Casey Super Blue, it goes on cold with a rag, and will at least make it more presentable.
Guys, I used vise jaws, 2x4's, heat and none of it worked. I had to use pliers with some padding to stop the slippage. I was under the impression the aluminum would not scratch the steel. But I got now a white band. I do have the barrel shroud. However it has holes and you can see the white. Will try some of the reblueing stuff or paint the area. Thanks for the input guys.
Smitty357
Member
Dont worry the inside of the barrel is already scratched. So it isnt going to hurt making the outside match.
If you want it to stay pretty. Do urself a favor and either sll it or never take it out of ur safe. There is no sense in worrying about a pretty weapon. If ur life ever depends on it, i doubt the intruder is going to say "hey whats that scratch on ur barrel from".
If you want it to stay pretty. Do urself a favor and either sll it or never take it out of ur safe. There is no sense in worrying about a pretty weapon. If ur life ever depends on it, i doubt the intruder is going to say "hey whats that scratch on ur barrel from".
Dirt Dart
Member
I've had similar problems in the past.
The best thing I have found that works every time are the SCG AR-15/M16 ACCU-GRIP BARREL VISE JAWS
(you can run a search on the Brownell's site). Chuck the barrel up in these with a little rosin, and presto. Although you still may need a torch.
I have a benelli shotgun that had scratches all over it from hunting. I picked up some high temp ceramic spray paint in flat black and painted the barrel then baked it on w/ a heat gun. Worked great and is really durable. Might be a cheap option.
Were you using aluminum vice jaws? I've just used some talc powder in the jaws I have and that helped get a better grip without causing any finish problems.
I also read somewhere (not sure if it was here or another forum) that the band you see when the barrel slipped in the jaws (if they were aluminum) might be some aluminum that transfered to the barrel. Use some fine steel wool around the marks and see if it comes off.
I also read somewhere (not sure if it was here or another forum) that the band you see when the barrel slipped in the jaws (if they were aluminum) might be some aluminum that transfered to the barrel. Use some fine steel wool around the marks and see if it comes off.
Majorlk
Member
No, you do not want to paint the barrel, it will not hold up to the heat. Duracoat is an option, though, but if all you are worried about is some scratches on the barrel, why go to the bother and expense?
Just put some bluing compound on it and get back to shooting. If scratches are going to bother you all that much, you need to just hang the rifle on the wall and look at it; Scratches and other wear is a fact of life for firearms that are actually used. I have a 4" Colt Python that's worth four times what my 15-22 is worth and the bluing is gone on either side of the muzzle from holster wear. Big deal.
Scratches and bumps and bruises are what they are made for.
Gatillo
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A Little Black Sharpie Goes A Long Way.
Brett248Vista
Member
If you used aluminum vice jaws then it's not scratched it just has aluminum rubbed into the machining marks on the barrel. Load up a rag with some CLP and run the rag around the barrel and it will come off.
Dont worry the inside of the barrel is already scratched. So it isnt going to hurt making the outside match.
If you want it to stay pretty. Do urself a favor and either sll it or never take it out of ur safe. There is no sense in worrying about a pretty weapon. If ur life ever depends on it, i doubt the intruder is going to say "hey whats that scratch on ur barrel from".
You going into battle with a .22LR?
Bush Pilot
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Hearsedriver
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Yes, it is just residue from the aluminum blocks. The finish should be fine. If a little CLP doesn't remove it, some Birchwood-Casey cold blue on a rag will take the residue of instantly.
Smitty357
Member
LMAO, geees i hope not. The rant wasnt intended towards the .22LR directly. Point was no matter what weapon u pull, the intruder isnt going to worry about the scratched barrel.
Besides most of the time they dont even hang out long enough to find out what caliber it is.
gordon21
Member
I took your picture and enlarged it 600% to take a better look. After careful examination with a spectral fluxometer, I am positive that you should buy another rifle. Although this one will still be safe to shoot, a new one will make you feel better.
I also agree that that it very well could be aluminum on the steel which will come off and leave you a perfectly good barrel. Have you ever eaten in a cheap diner and seen gray marks on your supposedly white china plate? That is STAINLESS steel from the tables in the dishwasher area. Stainless steel tables are often produced with a very rough finish to save cost. A china plate can be harder than the steel and actually wear the steel off. Since it is stainless, it doesn't rust. But those gray streaks can be removed with a little elbow grease.
When you see gray streaks on the plates and the bathroom looks a little rough, I can assure you that you don't want to see the kitchen and walk-in coolers. What's in the back is never cleaner than the front.
I also agree that that it very well could be aluminum on the steel which will come off and leave you a perfectly good barrel. Have you ever eaten in a cheap diner and seen gray marks on your supposedly white china plate? That is STAINLESS steel from the tables in the dishwasher area. Stainless steel tables are often produced with a very rough finish to save cost. A china plate can be harder than the steel and actually wear the steel off. Since it is stainless, it doesn't rust. But those gray streaks can be removed with a little elbow grease.
When you see gray streaks on the plates and the bathroom looks a little rough, I can assure you that you don't want to see the kitchen and walk-in coolers. What's in the back is never cleaner than the front.
RedNeck Jim
Member
I scratched my shovel yesterday planting sweet potatoes. Had to throw the danged thing away.
Point is, a tool is a tool. Tools get used and show wear. It is a badge of honor, in the tool world, to be used and to be worn. What tool wants to be a closet queen?
Point is, a tool is a tool. Tools get used and show wear. It is a badge of honor, in the tool world, to be used and to be worn. What tool wants to be a closet queen?
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