Screw Loose

[R1yamaha]

After about 30 rounds through my new 629MG I noticed that the cylinder release lever was loose. Turned out the screw had backed out .
Can I put thread locker (not permanent) on this to retain it?
No hot loads, 240grs.

 

[sceva]

I use clear fingernail polish for a low strength thread locker.

 

[s&wchad]

They've said that about me for years...

Removable loctite is OK if it needs it.

 

[ISOM]

Loose screw

A drop our two of Loc Tite will do a fine job.

 

[Snapping Twig]

BLUE Loc Tite

 

[JoeyBones]

I have the same thing happening with my recently-acquired Model 940. After 50 rds. or so my last range session, the screw that retains the cylinder release was hand-loose.

I was planning on using blue Loc-Tite, but I am not 100% familiar w/ the internals of this gun.

My question is: Do I need to avoid or be careful in removing that screw completely, so as to avoid displacement or shifting of any other components? I.e., is that screw serving any other role aside from holding the cylinder release button in place? Is it holding some other piece in place within the frame, out of sight from an external point of view?

If so, I was thinking about perhaps backing it out -just- enough to see threads, and then applying the Loc-Tite, then letting it set for 15 min, before re-tightening the screw....

Any advice/explanation greatly appreciated...

Regards,

Bones

 

[bountyhunter]

After about 30 rounds through my new 629MG I noticed that the cylinder release lever was loose. Turned out the screw had backed out .
Can I put thread locker (not permanent) on this to retain it?
No hot loads, 240grs.

I always use blue loctite because of what you found out. That thing will back off.

 

[bountyhunter]

I have the same thing happening with my recently-acquired Model 940. After 50 rds. or so my last range session, the screw that retains the cylinder release was hand-loose.

I was planning on using blue Loc-Tite, but I am not 100% familiar w/ the internals of this gun.

My question is: Do I need to avoid or be careful in removing that screw completely, so as to avoid displacement or shifting of any other components? I.e., is that screw serving any other role aside from holding the cylinder release button in place? Is it holding some other piece in place within the frame, out of sight from an external point of view?

The hammer should hold the release from moving while you take the hollow cap screw on and off.

 

[JoeyBones]

The hammer should hold the release from moving while you take the hollow cap screw on and off.

Even on a Centennial ("hammerless") J-Frame?

Thanks a ton for the info!

Sorry if I am beating a dead horse - I just want to make sure I am understanding correctly...

Regards,

Bones

 

[Steve_NEPhila]

I would use Blue Loctite on the cylinder release latch without hesitation. Unscrew the cylinder release latch screw and remove it and the latch and examine it. This will help you get more familiar with the workings of your revolver.

Here is a link to the disassembly of a J frame (with lock removal) from YouTube:
YouTube - S&W Internal Lock Removal

At about the 2:45 point the cylinder release latch is removed showing what is underneath.

 

[R1yamaha]

Thanks for all the responses.
I appreciate it.

 

[5 Shot]

Could you use Blue Loctite on the ejection rod threads? I had mine almost come unscrewed on my Model 60. I Couldn't figure out why my cyclinder would not swing back up and lock into firing position. Then I noticed that the ejection rod was sticking out to far. Geeez...

 

[Steve_NEPhila]

Could you use Blue Loctite on the ejection rod threads? I had mine almost come unscrewed on my Model 60. I Couldn't figure out why my cyclinder would not swing back up and lock into firing position. Then I noticed that the ejection rod was sticking out to far. Geeez...

NO! Do not use Loctite of any kind on the ejector rod. How old is this model 60? You could send it back to Smith and Wesson to have it properly tightened.

 

[JoeyBones]

I would use Blue Loctite on the cylinder release latch without hesitation. Unscrew the cylinder release latch screw and remove it and the latch and examine it. This will help you get more familiar with the workings of your revolver.

Here is a link to the disassembly of a J frame (with lock removal) from YouTube:
YouTube - S&W Internal Lock Removal

At about the 2:45 point the cylinder release latch is removed showing what is underneath.

Good stuff Steve...

Thanks for the link!

Regards,

Bones

 

[H Richard]

Just be sure you use the correct size screwdriver bit on the cylinder release latch screw. It is a hollow bushing that screws over a stud, and can be easily damaged. A correctly fitting bit will avoid that damage.

 

[bountyhunter]

Even on a Centennial ("hammerless") J-Frame?

Thanks a ton for the info!

Sorry if I am beating a dead horse - I just want to make sure I am understanding correctly...

Regards,

Bones

I have never smithed one of those. I suspect there has to be an internal hammer which would hold the release in place.

 

[bountyhunter]

Could you use Blue Loctite on the ejection rod threads? I had mine almost come unscrewed on my Model 60. I Couldn't figure out why my cyclinder would not swing back up and lock into firing position. Then I noticed that the ejection rod was sticking out to far. Geeez...

Some people use a touch of blue loctite on the ejector rod threads, but not too much. Personally, I never use loctite on ejector rods. If they are cleaned and tightened properly, they don't loosen up. BTW: you absolutely must put spent brass in the tubes before twisting on the rod.