Screw Renoval

[DWalt]

Nothing to do with an S&W, but maybe someone has an idea to help me. I have a Remington Model 81 rifle, and want to remove the buttstock. A screw runs through the stock from the lower to the upper tangs, and I cannot get it to budge. And of course there is no way to soak it in penetrating oil, heat it, etc. Is using an impact wrench with a flat screwdriver blade feasible? Or is there another method that might work?

 

[smitholdtimer]

DWalt

If the end opposite the screw head with the slot is visible and accessible you may try an electric soldering gun on that exact spot (the end of the screw) until it has been heated thoroughly. Use a correct fitting hollow ground screw driver in the slot so as to not disfigure the slot in the screw and you should be successful accomplishing the screw removal. A little CLP applied to the thread ends may expedite but this heating procedure could require repeating if initially unsuccessful, perseverance should triumph. Please keep us posted!

 

[Mike McLellan]

Can you maneuver the tube from a can of Kroil through the reciever end, getting it close to where the threads should be? 2 or 3 days soaked in Kroil might do the trick, and it shouldn't hurt anything else.

 

[shovelwrench]

Are you re-using the stock or replacing it?

You can sawzall right through the stock and screw if your replacing the stock, then heat/lube/visegrip away. Just check for screw availability.

 

[dant]

Kroil as best as you can get to the "spot", then MUST use the proper fitting screwdriver, with whatever "needs" ( blade or socket ) BIG screw driver, you should put a rubber ring around the shaft of the screwdriver so it does NOT "slip" off or out of the slot ( putting a hole through the sides of the stock).......the area where they all meet ( stock and receiver) should be in a well padded, sturdy vise, freeing up BOTH hands, and then you must use FORCE,or LEVERAGE, ( a'T' -handle or such,,,,,,,,,,,,) it will come off and out...........

 

[scooter123]

Step one is that you will want a screwdriver blade that fits that screw perfectly. Step two is to use a long enough screwdriver that you can solidly clamp a set of vice grips on the shaft of the screwdriver. Step three is to put the barrel down on some padding to protect the muzzle, press down firmly on the butt of the screwdriver with the palm of one hand and use the other hand on the vice grips to turn the screwdriver. Once you get that screw to move wiggle it back and forth in small increments as you slowly work it out. If the screw is rusted this back and forth motion will grind that rust into a fine enough powder that you can slowly work that screw out without any huge bindups. If you do feel the screw start to bind, stop trying to work it out and just wiggle the screw in and out until it's free enough to extract further.

I restored a motorcycle that has sat in a shed with a wet floor for over 11 years and by doing this managed to extract every single frozen screw without breaking one single screw or stripping one single hole. However, there were some screws on that bike that took me nearly 2 hours to get out. Point is, take your time and you'll likely get it free. BTW, on that motorcycle wherever it was possible all those PITA screws were replaced with Stainless Steel Studs and Nuts with lock washers.

 

[2152hq]

The screw turns into a blind lug on the bottom of the top tang/recoil spring housing, so there's no getting at the threaded end of it.

You can apply heat to the screw itself by using a long rod w/a screwdriver tip ground onto it and a propane torch.

Grind a screw driver tip on the end of a piece of round stock so the tip fits tightly into the existing screw slot. You are going to heat that round stock itself while it's in place allowing the heat to transfer to the screw.
Make it with a long enough shank to keep your torch work clear of the rifle itself and you'll have to hold it w/a pliers as the entire piece will get hot.
As the rod heats up,,the screw will heat up and the heat will travel to the opposite end where the threads are.
This is where the educated guess comes in,,,when you think it might be hot enough to have loosened the grip inside there,remove the hot-rod and quickly place a real screw driver in place and attempt to turn the screw out. It might creak and crack a bit and there may be some smoke as the screw fits tightly through the wood,,but with a couple careful attempts it should back out.
It's not threaded that deeply into the lug under the tang.

Someone may have even LocTite'd the screw in place at some point in the past to avoid it loosening. Only heat will break the bond if it is.

 

[jepp2]

As others have mentioned, soaking with Kroil is the best first step if possible.

I have had excellent luck using a screw impact driver link. You get the benefit of the impact driving the screw forward in the lug as it applies torque at the exact same instant. If you use this method, don't hit too hard to start with.

Another way, that isn't as good is to hit the end of an all metal screw driver several times. Again, gently. This doesn't apply torque at the same time, but often will cause the frozen threads to break free.

Just to clarify, I would never use this technique on a small fine thread screw. Those are best handled using a drill press to apply down force and turn the chuck by hand. But I envision your stock screw is decent size.

 

[cal50]

The hammer type impact driver with the correct bit would be my choice.
I fixed a few shotguns for local duck hunters that were wet and the stock bolt would not turn without the use of an impact driver.