SMITH & WESSON 3RD MODEL HAND EJECTOR 32 LONG

[KneverKnew]

Need help identifying the actual model, manufacture date, original configuration and worth of this pistol I just got at auction. It was listed by auction house as a SMITH & WESSON 3RD MODEL HAND EJECTOR 32 LONG.

5 screw.

Chrome finish. Is this original?

Serial is 265XXX. Bottom grip, bottom barrel, rear cylinder numbers match.

Barrel length is 4.25”

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[delcrossv]

Could it be Nickel? Chrome is never original for these.

 

[elm_creek_smith]

It should be a nickel finish. If it's factory plated it should have "N" on the frame under the grip, IIRC.

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[KneverKnew]

Could it be Nickel? Chrome is never original for these.

Yes. Probably Nickel.

Were these produced originally as nickel?

 

[Muley Gil]

Does the serial number under the barrel have a "B" prefix? If so, it shipped with a blue finish. No "B" indicates it left Springfield Mass with a nickel finish.

Nickel has a yellow tone to it. Chrome has a bluish tint. Is the ejector star blue or nickel/chrome?

 

[KneverKnew]

It should be a nickel finish. If it's factory plated it should have "N" on the frame under the grip, IIRC.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

I did not find an N but on left side of grip frame under grip panel near bottom grip pin is an S and another mark just below right next to pin I can’t make out.
On right side is an F. What do these marks indicate?

 

[elm_creek_smith]

Sorry. Not sure. Someone who knows more will be along shortly.

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[DWalt]

I am assuming it is an I-frame revolver, a .32 Hand Ejector, Third Model. In which case, the SN would date it to 1919. It could have left the factory nickel plated. If the hammer and trigger are also plated, that is indicative of a non-factory plating job. Pictures would help greatly in making a more exact ID and valuation estimate.

 

[KneverKnew]

Does the serial number under the barrel have a "B" prefix? If so, it shipped with a blue finish. No "B" indicates it left Springfield Mass with a nickel finish.

Nickel has a yellow tone to it. Chrome has a bluish tint. Is the ejector star blue or nickel/chrome?

Eject or star is blue

 

[Hondo44]

Yes, the factory offered the nickel finish, the hammer and trigger should not be plated, however. They were color case hardened.

I agree it was likely shipped late 1918, or 1919. If that's the case, it will not have the S&W logo on either side of the frame. But it will have gold medallions in the grips if they are walnut.

 

[KneverKnew]

Does the serial number under the barrel have a "B" prefix? If so, it shipped with a blue finish. No "B" indicates it left Springfield Mass with a nickel finish.

Nickel has a yellow tone to it. Chrome has a bluish tint. Is the ejector star blue or nickel/chrome?

This is very helpful. Thanks.

No B prefix under barrel. So I guess this is original nickel finish?

 

[KneverKnew]

I am assuming it is an I-frame revolver, a .32 Hand Ejector, Third Model. In which case, the SN would date it to 1919. It could have left the factory nickel plated. If the hammer and trigger are also plated, that is indicative of a non-factory plating job. Pictures would help greatly in making a more exact ID and valuation estimate.

Thank you. 1919! Wow! The hammer and trigger are original case hardened color. Not played. The nickel color looks more yellow to me in some of the thinning areas. Not bluish.
Working on pictures. My original picture hosting sight doesn’t work any more. Trying other options. Please keep an eye on this post.

 

[KneverKnew]

Yes, the factory offered the nickel finish, the hammer and trigger should not be plated, however. They were color case hardened.

I agree it was likely shipped late 1918, or 1919. If that's the case, it will not have the S&W logo on either side of the frame. But it will have gold medallions in the grips if they are walnut.

I was wondering about it not having the S&W logo on the sides of the frame. Thanks. The grips are the hard rubber type. Would these be original back then? They look pretty good around the logo which is crisp and legible. Even the checkering isn’t completely worn down. Only big problem with grips is there is a chuck missing from the
Bottom of each where the grip frame bottom pin fits. Again, working on getting pictures posted. Sure wished you could just upload them.

 

[lestert357]

Again, working on getting pictures posted. Sure wished you could just upload them.

If you are on a mobile device, or have access to one, download the Tapatalk app - posting pictures with Tapatalk is very easy.

 

[KneverKnew]

Finally got pictures posted in original post. Please let me know if these help with age, condition and value estimation. Let me know if you need a different picture. Thanks.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Nice old .32 HE. You can find replacement grips on eBay from time to time. You want I frame size. If you prefer grips made from other materials, get J frame boot or target grips that enclose the entire grip frame. Panel style grips that expose the grip frame will be about 1/8" too long. You could cut that off and reshape the bottom to fit the frame if you prefer those style of grips.

 

[KneverKnew]

Nice old .32 HE. You can find replacement grips on eBay from time to time. You want I frame size. If you prefer grips made from other materials, get J frame boot or target grips that enclose the entire grip frame. Panel style grips that expose the grip frame will be about 1/8" too long. You could cut that off and reshape the bottom to fit the frame if you prefer those style of grips.

The grips have a matching number inside so may just keep original.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

There used to be a member who repaired the hard rubber grips. Don't recall who he is, ATM. I'm not advocating throwing the originals away but I'm afraid they will continue to deteriorate if you shoot with them. I believe glowe has refurbished these before and might offer some tips?

 

[DWalt]

I don't think I would fool with getting the grips repaired. Try to find a pair of originals in better condition on eBay. Or buy a set of replica grips which are made of black plastic - not hard rubber, but look OK. You can keep the broken grips with the gun for historical reasons.

 

[KneverKnew]

I appreciate all the help and advice and determining what exactly this gun was. Any idea as to what it’s worth in current condition or if I can find a replacement set of original grips?Doesn’t necessarily mean I’m going to sell it because my boy he’s really enjoy shooting it. It’s quite a hoot.