Smith & Wesson Mod 14-3, Burned in Car Fire, Can it be saved?.

RealReglarGuy

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A friend gave me this pistols years ago, been in my drawer ever since.

Info on pistol:
38 S.&W. Special CTG.
8K85XXX (denotes made in 1975?)
Mod 14-3

I've been told it is a "K38 Masterpiece"
And I've been told it is not a "K38 Masterpiece."

Short story on this pistol: My friend's car caught on fire in the 1970s, the pistol was under the seat.

Next day he retrieved pistol, took it to "Gunsmith" (which does not mean much around here) who told him it wasn't worth fixing, so he disabled the pistol by removing the spring and other parts and then parkerized it to prevent rusting.

My friend put replacement handles on the pistol. And it has sat in my pal's drawer ever since, until giving it to me several years ago.

Saw it this morning and thought I'd ask you guys about it here.
What do you guys estimate it would cost to have it checked out by a REAL gunsmith?

I guess the short of it is this: Is it worth fooling with?
Do you think it could be repaired just to be a shooter farm carry pistol, for snakes and stuff?
Here's some pics:
 

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Maybe. Depends on how hot the fire got, and any corrosion developed. I know of several handguns that have been rescued from fire. Think of the trmp it takes to change the temper of the metal of the frame and cylinder. Could the temp of the fire have gotten that hot? Is it still operable? When you look at many years ago when S&W were first made and into the early 20th century they weren't heat treated. Many were shot with smokeless powder.

It can't hurt anything to do some experimenting. Replace the springs etc that have been removed, and see if it will operate properly. Then try a very mild target load. I would be hesitent to use any +P or maybe even full power 158 gr loads, but it may be a fun gun with mild loads.
 
Interesting project. Wondering why springs and other parts like rear sight guts were removed other than the gunsmith needed some parts… Also, that is a sorry looking parkerizing job. I would take it down, blast it and do a spray finish of creakote or similar product after installing all new parts and bring it back to life to see if it is worth the finish cost.
 
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My opinion is that it's an interesting paperweight.

You will have to spend far more than the cost of a nice M14 to make it shootable and look nice, and that's not even considering the damage likely done to the frame, barrel and cylinder by the heat of the fire.
 
Be sure to check the condition of the inside of the barrel. I saw a beautiful Model 19, 1961 manufacture a couple of weeks ago that was absolutely 95% easily with only minor blue wear at the muzzle. However the bore had a solid coating of rust that was so thick it probably measured .32 caliber or less. The man wanted $800, no negotiating, and I told him it was not worth that to me because of the condition of the barrel.
 
This question comes up more often than I would think over the years on various forums.

I'm not the best looking guy, but I like my eyes and fingers where they are, so I don't mess around with guns that may or may not have had their metallurgy altered by a fire. But it is also true that I may be overly cautious in some respects.
 
Let me ask you fellows this: I'm not a collector, just a casual shooter, tins cans, milk jugs, etc. I'm on a farm, always carry a S&W .22, so I was thinking about seeing if this .38 14-3 could be salvaged.

How much could a good 14-3 be bought for now days? A nice shooter, not a show piece. A .38 would be much better for snakes, since my .22 takes two maybe three shots to do the job.

Here's my .22
 

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Without knowing the details of the fire there is no way to measure the temper / strength of the steel. Was it just the engine or was the car fully involved? No reputable gunsmith or even the factory will certify the gun as safe to shoot.

Some projects are best walked away from.
 
Some 40 years ago I wanted a Weatherby mark 5 action for a custom rifle.

One day a gun shop just outside of Pittsburgh brought out a mark 5 barreled action that had been in a fire. A very large sporting gods store had burned down and a fireman salvaged it selling it to the shop.

I paid no more than $50.00 for it. Had the action rockwell tested in multiple locations. It passed and I used it for a 7mm wildcat.

It was still a risk and I would not take that chance again, its not worth it.
 
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Without knowing the details of the fire there is no way to measure the temper / strength of the steel. Was it just the engine or was the car fully involved? No reputable gunsmith or even the factory will certify the gun as safe to shoot.

Some projects are best walked away from.

All my friend could tell me was that it was under the front seat and his wooden handles got burned up.

I'm thinking just put it back in the drawer and try to find a decent 14-3 to carry out here. How much am I looking at to buy one? Low to high?
 
Buy a gallon of Metal Rescue at Home Depot or if you can't find that Evap-o-Rust. Find a plastic or other container with a top (prevent evaporation) and throw the gun in with the Metal Rescue and let it sit until every trace of rust is gone. During that time you can research your options. If nothing else it will be a good test. You could cold blue it or polish it up in the white. if nothing else it could be a dry-fire gun in front of the TV. If you decide it is unsafe to shoot, you should do something to prevent it from being fired down the road.
 
I'm thinking just put it back in the drawer and try to find a decent 14-3 to carry out here. How much am I looking at to buy one? Low to high?

In the current market, you should be able to find a nice shooter in the $600-800 range. Pristine collectors are a little higher. Catch a deal from a private seller and maybe a little less.

I paid $725 for a very nice 14-2 two years ago. I think prices may have peaked and are cooling a little bit.

As noted above, car fires burn hot. If it was hot enough to burn off the stocks, I wouldn't bother sinking any money into it.
 

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