Some newbie questions about revolvers

[mdehoogh]

I have a few guns but they're all striker fired (glock, xd) or DAO (ruger LCP) so I've got some questions about DA/SA actions like that of a Model 60 or 637. I understand the basics as far as what the trigger is doing in each mode but I'm curious if it's possible to fire the gun by simply pulling the hammer back part way and releasing?

With my Glock, as long as the holster covers the trigger, there's no way for it to fire (other than some freak, mechanical malfunction, which could potentially happen with anything). If I get a S&W 60 and carry it in a leather IWB holster that's covering the trigger, is it just as secure as most other guns out there or is there a possibility that the hammer could get snagged on something and fall back on the primer? I guess another way of putting it would be, can the hammer act as a sort of trigger? Should it be covered by a holster as any other trigger should?

Also, the lock that everyone is referring to, is there any internal, mechanical downside to it or is it more of an aesthetic issue?

Thanks

 

[M2MikeGolf]

You will hear lots of information soon, from people a lot more versed on the "hammer" fall issue, but I will summarize by saying that you have nothing to worry about with hammer fall, it has more to do with trigger position than hammer. The issue you refer to was a problem with earlier revolvers, but was solved many decades ago; the 60 and 637 will offer you no concern. It may interest you to know that the Glock and striker fired pistols were designed to replicate the "safeness" of a revolver fully loaded.

 

[A10]

Welcome to the forum! You ask some great questions. Modern revolvers, even almost all single action revolvers nowadays, are designed not to fire if your thumb slips from the hammer as you are cocking the weapon. I certainly wouldn't worry about the issue with a Model 60. Several holster manufacturers make holsters that have tabs that snap over the top of the hammer to secure the weapon in the holster. This would most assurredly alleviate any concerns of hammers hanging up on clothing unintentionally, thought I have personally never heard of this being an issue, and I have been carrying and shooting revolvers for longer than I care to remember. The question about the S&W internal lock is up for debate. I think they are ugly and I don't like useless mechanical devices on my firearms. It seems to me that the concern for a malfunction that disables the weapon is a little overblown. I have both IL and no lock revolvers. I shoot some fairly heavy loads with the IL guns and haven't had an issue. To each their own.

 

[scooter123]

To clarify things a bit, since the late 40's S&W has installed a hammer blocking safety that is keyed to the position of the trigger. If the trigger is not pulled fully to the rear there is a small blade that is positioned between the frame and the hammer so that it cannot come far enough forward to hit the firing pins on the newer revolvers with frame mounted firing pins or allow the firing pin to contact the primer on those with hammer mounted firing pins.

 

[snubbiefan]

Ditto on what he said.

 

[Avery11]

Welcome to the forum! You ask some great questions. Modern revolvers, even almost all single action revolvers nowadays, are designed not to fire if your thumb slips from the hammer as you are cocking the weapon. I certainly wouldn't worry about the issue with a Model 60. Several holster manufacturers make holsters that have tabs that snap over the top of the hammer to secure the weapon in the holster. This would most assurredly alleviate any concerns of hammers hanging up on clothing unintentionally, thought I have personally never heard of this being an issue, and I have been carrying and shooting revolvers for longer than I care to remember. The question about the S&W internal lock is up for debate. I think they are ugly and I don't like useless mechanical devices on my firearms. It seems to me that the concern for a malfunction that disables the weapon is a little overblown. I have both IL and no lock revolvers. I shoot some fairly heavy loads with the IL guns and haven't had an issue. To each their own.

Like the old ladies say at the VFW on Sundays...BINGO! On everything he said.

BTW, we all only get one chance to make a first impression on this forum. Nice goin there with that question. You're a thinkin man for sure - safety first. Welcome. Now prepare to go so broke buying Smiths you won't be able to afford your carpal tunnel surgery from typing about them.

 

[mdehoogh]

Thanks for the help guys!

I'm thinking of going with an alloy framed model for easier pocket carry. Is there a black anodized version of the 637? I've seen the 642 and 638 have black versions (442 and 438) but the only black, DA/SA model j-frame (with the exposed hammer) I could find was the 360 which is priced quite a bit higher.

edited to add:
With a front sight like this, is it at all replaceable? I've seen some with a pin that appears to be removable but this looks like it's part of the frame/barrel and would basically have to be ground off in order to affix a new sight

 

[snubbiefan]

I think it depends on how wide the base of the sight is. If it's wide enough...a good smith could mill-out a channel and install a front sight blade, but you would need to install an adjustable rear to compensate for any small changes in line-of-sight.

IMHO...if you want one with fixed sights like this....get a fixed sight gun and leave it alone. If you want one with that front sight blade, or one of the other better front blades...like the fiber, or red (high-visibility) insert....go with a weapon that comes equipped with adjustable, or better sights. That will likely put you in a little larger revolver frame.

All of my snubs are fixed, but my longer barrel and larger framed guns have adjustable. One more option....if you want a snub-nose, the laser grip-sights seem to be coming down in price a bit. They simply bolt onto the side of the weapon at the top of the grip, or you can get the laser sight built into the grip.

It will likely cost you a lot more than you are willing to pay to modify the snub sights and probably more than a good set of grip-style laser sights would. Once you machine on a weapon....other folks may-or-may not like what you have done and it will become yours for life....like-it-or-not.

 

[scooter123]

Pocket revolvers such as these models are intended for "up close and personal" defense. As such I would suggest that you work on point shooting at 15 feet or install a laser grip. The plain truth is that the sight radius is so short that it's nearly useless for those of us who don't have the near perfect vision we once had.

 

[586nickel]

Thanks for the help guys!

I'm thinking of going with an alloy framed model for easier pocket carry. Is there a black anodized version of the 637? I've seen the 642 and 638 have black versions (442 and 438) but the only black, DA/SA model j-frame (with the exposed hammer) I could find was the 360 which is priced quite a bit higher.

edited to add:
With a front sight like this, is it at all replaceable? I've seen some with a pin that appears to be removable but this looks like it's part of the frame/barrel and would basically have to be ground off in order to affix a new sight

Welcome aboard! You'll find a bunch of great guys and info here, and soon your wallet will be cursing the day you found us.

I read you post above and thought of a recent post that may help you. Go to the link in post #5 of link below.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/193419-help-642-a.html

I have a 642 and love it and will likely be doing something with the front sight along the lines mentioned in that article.

 

[murphydog]

I'm thinking of going with an alloy framed model for easier pocket carry. Is there a black anodized version of the 637?

The original alloy framed gun of this size is called the model 37, which you can easily find used but has a polished blue finish. There is also a model 437 that seems to still be available, but with a stainless (silver) barrel and cylinder and blue frame.

 

[snubbiefan]

If you get a gun with good adjustable and highly visible sights, it's usually on the larger frames. I have other 'nuther brand revolvers in 2-inch snub (22 and 22 MAG) with adjustable sights and for that sight radius....they are pretty much worthless and actually get in the way if you plan to use it as a carry piece. You can zero them and shoot bullseyes pretty well, but I want my carry guns as "removable" as possible with fixed sights.

I practice just point-in-shoot.....didn't say I was real good at it...just said I practiced it (LOL).

 

[williamlayton]

Back to the first question.
Old Colts , S&W's, Remingtons had such a design that the safe method of carry was on an unloaded chamber.
Dropping the weapon on the hammer could potentially cas a discharge.
I don't know when Smith started their program--but all have some such simular protection. In this case it was done because the makers saw a concern and devloped a cure.
Blessings

 

[mdehoogh]

Thanks again for all your help guys! I've been reading a bunch of info here the past few days and I found a S&W 36 that seems to be in great condition at a pawn shop here and the guy said he'll let it go for $300. Good deal? I was looking for alloy originally but the steel frame isn't that heavy and it looks much nicer than the anodized aluminum frame anyways.

Is there anything to look for on the gun before buying it?

 

[BobR1]

The 36/60/437/637 have exposed hammers. Handy to cock, but could snag and hang up in a pocket.

You then have the 49/649/438/638 Bodyguard that has a shroud to mostly cover the hammer so it will not snag, but can still be cocked.

Then you have the 642 Internal hammer airweight model. I would have to look up the steel frame model numbers. I would not get a steel one anyway for a carry gun.

For pocket carry I would go with a 638 or 642. Both are airweights, and weigh in at 15 oz. NOTE: That is plenty light enough for a +P 38 recoil wise.

Next Sights. The 2.5" barrel version of the 637, 638, and I believe 642 have a pinned on front sight. If I were thinking about a front Tritium night sight, I would check into the 2.5 Inch pinned on sight models.

Next Sight option Green Sight Brite sight paint on the upper 50% of the front sight. This is what I have done on my 638. It helps a great deal on getting a sight picture, as well as finding the front sight in a hurry. I shoot BUG Matches with mine, which is on the clock, so I do get in a hurry shooting it. The Green Paint works fine. Costs about $12 with shipping. Shipping is higher than the paint.

I was at the range today when our local eye doctor and his son came out to do a little shooting with an LCR and a P22. After shooting both for a while, I let them both shoot my 638 and 64 with my 800 fps hand loads. They both shot both of my revolvers way more accurately than either of their semi-automatics. I let the boy shoot a round with my 617 also. He hit our Chicken silhouette 3 out of 5 shots at 25 yards with it. He was impressed after shooting all over an 8.5 X 11 piece of target paper at 15 feet with his P22.

 

[mdehoogh]

Went ahead and picked it up after talking it down to $250 Called S&W and they say it's not rated for+P which is kind of a downside, but it was too cheap (IMO) to pass up. I figure if I have the heavier steel model, it'd be nice to have the option for higher powered ammo. I'll keep an eye out though and maybe I can trade for an alloy or 357mag model

 

[JayBird686]

Next Sight option Green Sight Brite sight paint on the upper 50% of the front sight. This is what I have done on my 638. It helps a great deal on getting a sight picture, as well as finding the front sight in a hurry. I shoot BUG Matches with mine, which is on the clock, so I do get in a hurry shooting it. The Green Paint works fine. Costs about $12 with shipping. Shipping is higher than the paint.

I put a dab of white out on the front blade of my 442(Black) and it made the world of difference. Plus if I dont like it, it comes right off. I may try the Sight Bright though; looks a bit more classy! But at the end of the day, same concept.

From what I have read, Buffalo Bore makes a great SD round in standard pressures.

 

[yogiboobooranger]

Hey mdehoogh, good looking 36. I would have snatched it up in a heartbeat. Just so you know, +P ammo is sometimes over rated. Get a good semi jacketed hollow point load to carry in it, and I promise that if you shoot a bad guy with it, he will not know whether it was a +p Load or not. You could try Magtech 38 Special SJHP, 158 grains. This ammo shoots well and will not break the bank. Remember, Handguns are not death-rays, and no matter what you see on TV, most persons shot with a handgun do survive for a while after being shot,and your aim is to incapacitate them to such an extent that they will not continue their attack. Most hollow point ammunition will do that, +P or not, if you do your part. Shooting standard pressure ammo usually allows you faster second shot capabilities due to lesser recoil. Anyway, good looking gun and enjoy it.

 

[ChinaSeaSailor]

welcome aboard from Houston

 

[Badkarma 1]

Front sights and your m36

Welcome to the forum! First off if you just have to replace your front sight you might want to look into having a gunsmith mill off the exsiting blade and cut a dovetail notch into the base. Then you can have him/her install a different front sight blade. One proviso though, stick with a ramp style or some sort of shape that won't snag if you contemplating carry in a pocket or one of the soft IWB holsters!
Now that's one beautiful model 36!! As for what to put in it as far as defensive ammo goes, Federal is supposed to be re-releasing the 125gr. Nyclad hollow point load, it's not +P and is a soft lead bullet in a nylon coating that retards barrel leading. It was called the "Chief's Special" load as it is designed for these little blasters. With regards to +P in snubs; I have an old model 60 (the stainless brother to you 36) and shoot a limited amount of +P out of it yearly, it's still tight! My range session is usually a box of wadcutters followed by two speed loaders of my carry load (the +P version of the above) just to keep me familiar with the recoil, and blast of the hotter ammunition.
Just a thought here: Model 36s like yours are getting harder to find, and if I were you I'd keep it! They're well made and a lot more accurate than most give them credit for. And then buy a newer version for the hot stuff if you want. Hope this helps! Dale