Still Looking For a Safe ***** COMMENT ADDED ****

NYlakesider said:
Bear proof:D some of those things are Sasquatch proof! The real good ones are the duel locks. The last time I worked out of a box was back in 2001 , so possibly there have been some changes!
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Na all the bigger boxes still run the 2 recessed locks that you can barely get a key into. I used to solder a quarter to my tool box keys to make it easier to unlock them. I don't work the tools anymore either, but see lots of those kind of boxes on job sites. You could put a lot of guns the big chest type or even the bigger stand up ones. None are easy to break into. I have got into a few for various reasons, but it took a bit and I had access to all the tools a guy could want to do it. The tools in my brothers or my fitters box were worth some serious money. Lot of guys have several thousands of dollars worth of tools inside them
 
steelslaver said:
Na all the bigger boxes still run the 2 recessed locks that you can barely get a key into. I used to solder a quarter to my tool box keys to make it easier to unlock them. I don't work the tools anymore either, but see lots of those kind of boxes on job sites. You could put a lot of guns the big chest type or even the bigger stand up ones. None are easy to break into. I have got into a few for various reasons, but it took a bit and I had access to all the tools a guy could want to do it. The tools in my brothers or my fitters box were worth some serious money. Lot of guys have several thousands of dollars worth of tools inside them
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Me also. For reasons I have had to get into some boxes and like you I had everything I needed available.

As been stated before they are very good for buying time be it on the job site or in your house.
 
Still Looking For a Safe

As mentioned, there's some purchases I wouldn't feel comfortable "shopping for bargains". A gun safe is one. I have a friend who was selling his share of ownership in a LGS. Part of his stock was a portion of the safe inventory and I got a heck of a deal on this Liberty. Glad I did and would pay MSRP for another one.

The picture below was in my office, I had the LGS move it to my basement. Well worth the $100 they charged to move and place it for me!

8457138761820b1f854d657d3dd79663.jpg
 
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Keep in mind that a gun safe will not hold as many guns as each model advertises unless they are almost all pistols. For example, a "24 Gun Safe" will only hold a combination of maybe 15-18 long and short guns.
Also be aware that on most safes that the door is the only really strong part. A heavy thick door is mostly just good marketing.
I have seen a good safe that had a large hole cut in it with a no-heat cutting tool and a pair of channel lock pliers, and multiple guns removed. Sheriff's Dept. said it was an approximately 10 to 15 minute job.
I recommend attaching a few 1/8" to 1/4" steel plates to the inside walls as an extra precaution. Full coverage is nor necessary.
 
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I have two GOVT file cabinets,, one is a "2" high, the other is a "4" high.

The 2 high weighs 400 pounds, the 4 high weighs 800 pounds.
Last spring, i replaced the safe lock in the 4 high
the 2 high works perfectly.

Both are "legal size", I think that means the drawers are 14
inches wide.
Both are VERY deep, the drawers roll WAY out, they are deeper than a typical gun safe.

They are both rated 45 minute tamper resistant.
As far as getting into it with a grinder,, GOOD LUCK,,
These are both fabricated out of 1/4" thick steel, or thicker.

These would be great for handguns,, the 4 drawer high one would hold a TON of handguns.

I had plans for them when I had a previous business, now, they take up space.
 
I bought a small Browning safe several years ago. My only regret is I wish I would have bought a larger one. The one I bought has an electronic keypad which is great for someone with old eyes. I also like the finish on the metal exterior.
 
I will lay this out to be straight forward trying to give you the BEST advise I know how too.

#1) Every safe that is sold at a Costco, Tractor Supply, Bass Pro, Dick's etc. are almost always less secure, of lesser quality and thinner metal than one of their standard line that is similar and in their regular safe line up. This is because the big box stores will discount them, buy them in huge quantities, and demand a deep discounts from their vendors. Yes, you pay less, but you WILL get less!!!

#2) After the Fiasco with Liberty, I'd stay far away from their company and new products. There are many who already own them, but that is water under the bridge. They are a "non friendly" company to us!

#3) This one is the MOST important of all! DO NOT buy a "Gun Safe"!
Instead, go to a local safe dealer that carries used Jewelry safes. They are way stronger, thicker, heavier, have much better locks, better mechanisms, and many times also have inner drawers that lock as well for another layer of protection. They carry better fire ratings and higher burglar ratings. Buying a used Jewelry safe could not only save you some money (maybe not), but more importantly you will get a far superior safe! OK - Jewelry safes will not have the high gloss and fancy pin striped paint job and will not come with rifle stands built in - but who the hell cares! The rifle stands can easily be built and installed and it is my opinion that ANY safe should be inside a locked and alarmed closet or similar and not exposed in a garage, den or living room. Therefore the high gloss fancy paint job is a moot point and a waste of money. Put that money into a higher quality safe!

I wish someone had said these things to me 30 years ago!

Most people will more than likely be "trapped and lured" by the fancy looking "gun safes", but a really smart person will at least look into the used Jewelry safe option and actually talk with a professional safe guy who sells both types. Obviously, if you go into a store that only sells gun safes, he wants to sell you what he has and will probably try to negate all I have said. Your choice your money, but at least think about what I have posted.

ADDED: I'd also demand a conventional mechanical lock on whatever safe you buy and stay far away from the electronic digital version. Again, just another "Liberty case" waiting to happen!
 
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smoothshooter said:
Keep in mind that a gun safe will not hold as many guns as each model advertises unless they are almost all pistols. For example, a "24 Gun Safe" will only hold a combination of maybe 15-18 long and short guns.
Also be aware that on most safes that the door is the only really strong part. A heavy thick door is mostly just good marketing.
I have seen a good safe that had a large hole cut in it with a no-heat cutting tool and a pair of channel lock pliers, and multiple guns removed. Sheriff's Dept. said it was an approximately 10 to 15 minute job.
I recommend attaching a few 1/8" to 1/4" steel plates to the inside walls as an extra precaution. Full coverage is nor necessary.
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Ever take apart the insides and drill a big Browning safe for floor attachment? Went through several drill bits using oil. To me, there are only Browning safes. Of course, I like many items from Browning.
 
I really like what Chief38 posted just above me. Just offering this up as an FYI.....

If you don't need factory-installed fire-linings, or would be willing to line it yourself, consider a Zanotti. Fully assembled, there's no way I would've been able to handle this beast. Piece-by-piece, I needed the assistance of two folks for the door. One other guy to help me hold the weight, and one dainty little gal to align the hinge stems to the hinge holes, LOL. When she gave the go, we lowered the weight.:D

I think there is at least one other competitor out there now that offers the same 6-piece idea. There is another minor plus, IMHO. If you're having it shipped to your home, your neighbors are not going to readily grasp it's a safe.
 
KalamazooKid said:
.
8457138761820b1f854d657d3dd79663.jpg
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The only issue with the lock on this kind of safe are the batteries.
Note: The entire keypad assembly is designed to be easily removable in order to replace the batteries.
I have batteries die on me and I had to replace them before the lock would work (gee, an electronic lock needs batteries - who knew).
Another time, the battery leaked so badly and caused enough damage the 9 volt battery plug and wires that and I had to replace it completely. Not complicated, just time consuming.
I'm thinking that a safe with a mechanical lock might suit me better.
 
Pete, I have one, a Canon from TSC. I bought it really cheap, almost cost as much to deliver it into my home.
Nick in Time did the delivery, very professional.

Alarm system with back up cellular capability and cell phone control, security cameras with remote access, retired cops as neighbors, stored in a difficult area to work on, check.
My alarm monitor service calls within 30 seconds of the alarm tripping. We have found that out a few times by arming the alarm as instant instead of away. :eek:

Yes, electronic keypad.n:eek::D Works fine if I change the batteries often as I found out after Canon sent me 3 new keypads because I thought they failed. Canon service was great to me.
I buy fresh 5 year alkaline batteries, check the dates, and replace often due to its location.

Having said that, the best safes I've ever seen are built in Roxboro, NC by Greg Drake, Drakes safe. Minimum 1/4 inch steel and 3/8 in other places that are not 1/4. I think the bottom and back are 1/4 and the sides and top are 3/8.
They were too heavy for where my safe was going, or I was buying one. Prices used to be not much more than a Liberty, and way better, but with steel prices soaring………….


0-D52-C9-C6-FA6-D-4-BE2-8-F1-C-3-E2269-AD1679.jpg
 
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I also feel compelled to mention this (watch video):

Regardless of which brand, model, size or weight, ANY safe MUST be mounted into the floor from inside the safe. Every demonstration of brute force with large pry bars I have ever seen was done with the safe rocked onto its back. With the safe on the floor (door up) and a few big strong guys with pry bars, it's only a matter of minutes before a safe is pried opened. If you put the safe in a Central Station alarmed closet that has a locked solid wood door and reinforced locking bolt - all the better!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8ViUdd-2LM&t=28s[/ame]
 
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I am of the opinion that in most cases a home gun safe is much the same as a good fence, it makes good neighbors and keeps the honest people honest. There was a segment on the local news that showed a home broke into from a basement window while the couple were away on the weekend. The thieves had enough time to use a sawsall to penetrate both sides of a common household gun safe (you pick make and manufacture), they cut a rectangular hole in both sides that allowed them enough room to pull rifles out. In some cases it allowed them enough room to break the rifle or shotgun down and pull it out in pieces. Obviously these guys had nothing but time and left evidence of eating a meal and drinking a soft drink....still. As I have stated a good safe is only as good as the amount of time they have to get in because they will get in if given enough time. I've been told that the security safes I have that have 9 Volt electric key pads can be defeated easily by short circuit in the correct location. No safe is impenetrable, just makes it more difficult for them to get your stuff. I am not at all sad that all of my stuff was lost in a boating accident a few years ago.
 
I bought a Liberty Revere safe at Tractor Supply. I've been happy with it. I suffer from no delusions that thieves will never be able to get it open, given enough time. I view it as a storage cabinet that locks to keep grandkids and other nosy types out. I'll never spend $10,000 on a safe that's worth more than the guns I keep stored in it.
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DeplorabusUnum said:
I bought a Liberty Revere safe at Tractor Supply. I've been happy with it. I suffer from no delusions that thieves will never be able to get it open, given enough time. I view it as a storage cabinet that locks to keep grandkids and other nosy types out. I'll never spend $10,000 on a safe that's worth more than the guns I keep stored in it.
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What one spends on his safe obviously depends on what and how much he is storing in it, the size of his collection, what he can afford and last but not least what his comfort level and piece of mind level is. Other than just security there are of course other important things a higher priced safes can provide. Fire rating and a water proof seals to be more specific.

A younger person who intends on enlarging their collection should plan for the future and get the best they can afford. Remember, while most who purchase a gun safe are thinking about protecting their gun collection, many times other valuables get stored in there also along with important documents.

Where, how and central station alarmed closets are a huge factor in making a safe into a much better of a challenge to get into. A simple thing like bolting it down greatly extends your protection factor.
 
Were I infinitely wealthy I'd have a steel reinforced concrete walk in vault built to store my stuff. Since I'm not, I have settled for a cheap home gunsafe. Yes, it can be defeated by a determined thief, but so could the vault (that would just take longer.)

My current safe is starting to get a bit overcrowded, so I may have to look at adding another.
 
I have a Liberty Fatboy Jr, and wish I had bought the larger one now. Got it at Gander Mountain and had it delivered and put in the basement for around $300.00.
When we moved, I had the moving company do the job of taking it out of the basement and then putting it in my gun room at the new house. They also moved my metal lathe for me, taking it from the garage of the old house to the garage at our new home.
 
I am right now in the same boat looking for a new and larger safe and have spent hours researching them. Looking for a true safe, not a residential security container. Lots of good info here, guys. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHAyRO566sU[/ame]
I actually spoke with Curt today - quick to return your call, extremely responsive and knowledgeable, happy to take all the time you need to have your questions answered. He'll also discuss makes and models that he doesn't sell, too... Another thing I'm considering is buying a used industrial grade safe, then outfitting the interior for firearms and other items. Upsides are price, security, customizability. Downside is weight. Still in the hunt, but armed with some knowledge now.
 
Weird - didn't come thru in last post...
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHAyRO566sU[/ame]

If the link didn't come through, look up you tube video for CEsafes.com
 
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