Strain Screw Question - K Frame

[413Maxwedge]

The strain screw on my 66-1 K-frame was buggered up, so I bought a new one. The new one is slightly longer ( .6055 vs .5630) with a rounded tip and greatly increases the trigger pull. The original has a flat tip and the trigger is nice and smooth.

Question - When the gun was built in 1980 did the smiths "fit" these screws, or did someone perform an action job and shorten the original? I bought it as NOS.

 

[jkmo]

We fitted them in Armorers school when assembling new revolvers. Just a file stoke or two and measure the action

 

[SS336]

We have some real experts on her to help you. They will be along shortly.
If it were me since the screw is stainless a little file work and polishing might be easier than trying to find a new screw just like the original.
I have had the same problem, especially on older revolvers. The “replacement” parts just don’t fit sometimes. Good luck.

 

[Muley Gil]

Using the current strain screw, did you EVER have any light primer strikes, with any ammo?

If the answer is No, then shorten the new strain screw. However, I would do it a little bit at a time, trying the trigger pull along the way.

 

[rct269]

Speaking of shortening strain screws, that's the routine to be followed in the installation of the Miculek spring kit (which allows you to select any D.A. trigger pull you wish)-----with the caution to not go below 7 lbs. lest your gun won't go bang, and he advises the use of Federal ammo/primers at that level.

Miculek's mainspring has a decided forward bend to it, about 3/8 to 1/2" down from the stirrup hooks. I don't know the why of it----other than it works! The trigger pull determination involves backing out the strain screw a bit and measuring the pull. Once the desired level is achieved, you simply measure the distance you've backed it out from full tight, remove that amount from the front end, and tighten the screw.

His kit is the only one I've used, and I've found absolutely no need to try any other!!

Ralph Tremaine