Strain screw stuck
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iPac
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Not sure.
Take a hair dryer and heat it up some then try again. Also, give some penetrant to it. Maybe tap on your screwdriver while inserted to break the friction.
If that doesn't work, you might have to jig it in a drill press, but that would be last resort.
Make sure you got good drivers.
Take a hair dryer and heat it up some then try again. Also, give some penetrant to it. Maybe tap on your screwdriver while inserted to break the friction.
If that doesn't work, you might have to jig it in a drill press, but that would be last resort.
Make sure you got good drivers.
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Don't know if they use Locktite - anything is possible. Try some Kroil and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, you can also try using a proper fitting screwdriver blade and use heat applied to the blade - not the gun. The heat will travel into the screw and hopefully loosen it up. Do NOT attempt with an ill-fitting screwdriver blade - you are sure to bung up the screw head. If you do not have the proper fitting blade - make one.
Well, Guess what, the strain screw is not stuck, one the highly regarded gunsmiths at the PC broke his screw driver tip off inside of the slot of the strain screw. Nice. Now any suggestions of getting this out. I about half the length of the slot with the tip exposed. I am not happy.
If it's stuck in the fully screwed position. Just let it be, unless you need to replace the main spring.
Try using a dental pick. If that's not strong enough, carefully try using a jewelers screwdriver or the tip of a cork screw.
It's also possible that you're looking at a malformed screwslot. If that's the case, order a replacement screw and modify a screwdriver tip to get the old one out.
It's also possible that you're looking at a malformed screwslot. If that's the case, order a replacement screw and modify a screwdriver tip to get the old one out.
When did they start putting strain screws on 637's? Also, how are they fitting eight shots into a J-frame?
RGVshooter
Member
I would try spraying a penetrating oil on it, let it soak overnight & if possible use a small pair of needle nose pliers unscrew it from the inside until you can grip enough on the outside & undo the rest by hand or the pliers.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Well, they have 8 shot .22 J frames, but no strain screw. I suspect it's really a 627, not 637. Maybe the OP can get a dental pick under the screwdriver bit and pry it out. Or, use a needle nose vise grip to turn the screw from the shank portion next to the mainspring. Once it's broke loose, it will easily unscrew the rest of the way. The factory doesn't use Loctite on strain screws.
Andy Lowry
Member
Probably the same gunsmith who let my 625PC ship with a .010 cone gap.
I like Toolguy's above idea of a dental pick. Heating the screw head might help by expanding it a tad. It would only take a tad.
I'd try a couple drops of Kroil, let it sit, and then use the tip of a smaller flat blade to try to flip it out. Gotta be careful, though, and I'd secure the frame, sans stocks, in a vise . . .
Ray1970
Member
So, in your previous post you mentioned that the screw was really tight but you didn't notice that there was something broken off n the screw head?
Strain screw stuck
One would think that if you were using the proper screwdriver when you tried that you wouldn't have been able to insert the screwdriver to attempt to loosen it.
Perhaps you can use a small chisel to carefully remove the broken screwdriver tip? Once that's out make sure the screwdriver you use fits the slot properly and give it another go.
Good luck.
Update, not a deformed screw head. I checked already with the loop. The is why I am kind of upset with SW PC people.
Tried the dental pick idea already and screw driver trick, but not budging. Now letting the screw soak with Kroil and I will give it another shot.
What about a heat gun?
Tried the dental pick idea already and screw driver trick, but not budging. Now letting the screw soak with Kroil and I will give it another shot.
What about a heat gun?
If the screw head expands more than the bit,heat should work
Heat gun is too general. Use a soldering iron instead. Make sure to clean the tip off when it gets to operating temp to remove any residual solder, then put it on the screw head.
BTW: Your duplicate threads have been merged into one.
BTW: Your duplicate threads have been merged into one.
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Kenneth07ex
Member
I'd try a small punch, with the frame set in a padded vise jaw. Maybe try heat from a solder gun, as suggested earlier.
I'd stick with the side of caution, and be prepared to return this thing to S&W, before any further damage occurs. My fear would be stripped threads. Driver tips don't usually break easily.
I'd stick with the side of caution, and be prepared to return this thing to S&W, before any further damage occurs. My fear would be stripped threads. Driver tips don't usually break easily.
Rpg
Member
If this was a broken screwdriver from the PC gunsmiths, why isn't this Smith's problem?
Once this ^^^ was discovered, why wasn't the next action a call to Smith for a mailing label and a warranty fix?
I'm of the strong opinion that end consumers ought not bail manufacturers out of their QC failings.
As long as we endusers fix stuff that shouldn't have left the mothership, Smith has no incentive to do QC.
Once this ^^^ was discovered, why wasn't the next action a call to Smith for a mailing label and a warranty fix?
I'm of the strong opinion that end consumers ought not bail manufacturers out of their QC failings.
As long as we endusers fix stuff that shouldn't have left the mothership, Smith has no incentive to do QC.
I'm with Rpg - the factory screwed it up so let them fix it. Unknown if assembly people are gigged for returns but they should be...
StakeOut
US Veteran
I might sacrifice the mainspring and cut it in half with a Dremel to relieve pressure on the screw.Then try to budge it.A factory mainspring is not expensive to replace.
S&W uses a red gasket type sealer on the screws.Only Bubba would use red locktite on revolvers screws.
I bought a used revolver that had JB Weld on all the screws that was a real challenge to remove the screw without damaging the gun.I'm not noted for my patience but I did prevail.
S&W uses a red gasket type sealer on the screws.Only Bubba would use red locktite on revolvers screws.
I bought a used revolver that had JB Weld on all the screws that was a real challenge to remove the screw without damaging the gun.I'm not noted for my patience but I did prevail.
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Something I read one time was to use a candle to apply the heat. The theory is that in addition to the heat, wax molecules carried by the flame penetrate the joint and help ease the removal.
In desperation I used this on an aluminum flange on a steel shaft. I'd been very generous with the blue Loc-Tite on the set screw because vibration would loosen it. Solved that problem, caused another. The candle worked like a charm.
BTW, I favor the return to the mother ship idea. The pressure from the mainspring isn't the issue. It's the torque of the screw head against the frame.
In desperation I used this on an aluminum flange on a steel shaft. I'd been very generous with the blue Loc-Tite on the set screw because vibration would loosen it. Solved that problem, caused another. The candle worked like a charm.
BTW, I favor the return to the mother ship idea. The pressure from the mainspring isn't the issue. It's the torque of the screw head against the frame.
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