Striker Spring vs. Trigger Spring?

[dmo70]

I'm new on the forum and a new gun owner as well.

I just bought the SW40VE a few weeks ago and I love it. I've already put about 400 rounds through it. I've been looking a lot online and I noticed that the "Trigger fix" videos on youtube say to replace the STRIKER spring with the one from Wolff Springs and shows them replacing the outer spring in the plastic sear housing from inside the frame. However I thought the striker spring was located in the enclosed portion in the rear of the slide. Ignorance?

Please advise a new and unwise gun owner.

 

[HBoswell]

You are correct. I have a 9VE with a DIY trigger job that I copied from Jeff's excellent videos. I did not and will not replace the striker spring which as you noted is located in the slide between the sear and the fireing pin. My fish scale indicated a trigger pull of 11.5# when I started and after polishing the sear cam and all metal parts in the housing(located inside the rear of the grip below the slide), removing the pigtail spring and replacing the outside cam spring with a lighter one, my trigger pull is now smooth as glass at 6#. I have not had any problems with it since the trigger job with the exception of two stove-pipes my nephew managed last Saturday. Once we fixed his limp-wristing grip, he went through 50+ more rounds without issue.
Came back to edit a bit. I should also have mentioned in you're tag line you say trigger spring vs striker spring. There is a trigger return spring on the top of the trigger assembly. I have seen where someone has a lighter spring to replace it but I felt the benefits were out weighed by the price.

 

[cbr6864]

there is a lot of debate on the sear springs, what ever you do leave them all in. if you read the patent info you will see each one is need as they apply force in different directions to give a constant trigger pull.

many people claim that removing the so called pigtail spring and outer coil will lighten the trigger. the problem is that you could remove all of the springs in the sear and still be left with a heavy trigger. as the weight you feel is the striker.

here is a simple test to show this to be true take the slide off and pull the trigger a few times notice the weight now put the slide on and rack it back now pull the trigger.

its a DAO the trigger will be heavy because you compress the striker spring as you pull the trigger

 

[Jamie]

I've done the same as HBoswell, followed the same video, have had the same results, (haven't actually measured the trigger pull #, but it is definitely lighter/smoother and have compared it back to back with another stock gun), I wouldn't replace the striker spring, there HAVE been more than a few instances of FTF from light firing pin hits, your results may vary.

 

[dmo70]

Ok thanks for the info I appreciate it! I think as far as the trigger goes I am just going to send it in to Smith&Wesson because lots of people say they will smooth everything out and lighten it up a bit for free. So that way it can be done by pros.

 

[christd]

SW40VE trigger pull

I sent my sw40ve to the Gander Mountain gunsmith in Washington, PA. He told me that if he replaced any springs it would void the warranty.
I wonder if the trigger pull would improve with dry firing?

 

[OKFC05]

Ok thanks for the info I appreciate it! I think as far as the trigger goes I am just going to send it in to Smith&Wesson because lots of people say they will smooth everything out and lighten it up a bit for free. So that way it can be done by pros.

Please advise a new and unwise gun owner.

If your trigger mechanism is rough and uneven, S&W wil smooth (or replace) it. They will NOT remove any springs or lighten the trigger.

Unless yours is defective, there is little that can be done, (except polishing the sear block) that will not compromise it for use in self defense.

CAUTION: Unless you want a range queen, don't remove any springs. DO NOT replace the striker spring as this frequently causes misfires.
Polishing the sear block involves detail stripping the sear block, and there is a trick to getting all the springs back in. If you lose or break any parts in it, S&W WILL NOT sell you new parts, and the gun will have to go back to the factory for a new sear assembly.

My adivce is to clean the plastic parts of the gun with CRC silicone spray and shoot it. The sllight residue of silicone powder is all the plastic parts need, and they will wear smoother.

I have used SIgmas for loaners and trainers for over a decade, and have tried all the reversible "improvements" I have seen.

I recently sold a polished and slick worn-in SIgma to a new IDPA shooter for a very good price, because he was struggling to shoot a very cheap (brand X) that was unreliable. He shot 3 matches with ZERO problems with the Sigma, won a ribbon for the first time ever, and classified SSP/MM. So obviously, he now had to "improve" the gun. You guessed it, he made a mess, and is mad because I won't fix it for him for free.

 

[60mg]

Are there any write-ups on the polishing of the parts or any S&W contact that was used in past?

 

[cbr6864]

Are there any write-ups on the polishing of the parts or any S&W contact that was used in past?

its really not that hard, off the top of my head field strip then punch pin retaining sear block. Lift out sear block and there will be 2 more pins I believe holding the springs in place remove those then inspect for any rough spots or left over machine marks. Take it slow remember to keep it square and go just a little at a time.

Unless you have over 500 rounds through it I wouldnt mess with it though.

There are a couple YT vids about it called something like "turning pigs ears into a silk purse"

 

[Kipling1275]

Hey guys I need some serious help with the trigger pull reduction. I have now seen 2.different ways to reduce the pull. I'm confused on which one to do or do I do both. The first one was the apex spring package replacing the striker spring and couple other parts. The other one I have seen is replacing the trigger sear spring. Both have claimed to reduce the pull and not effect reliability. The confusing part is they are in totally 2 different areas of my firearm. Can anyone help? I laugh because I feel if I do both I'm gonna have the smoothest loosest trigger pull, based on what they say! The video for replacing trigger sear spring is on YouTube under S&W sigma trigger sear spring mod sw40ve sw9ve smith & wesson swap fix. I see the other post here and I feel like its based on opinion.

 

[J Rich]

Here's the deal modding a firearm in anyway can cause issues. Keep in mind we are talking about deadly firearms not paintball guns here.

IMO the Apex kit is more than likely the safest way to lighten the trigger. As far as removing sear springs some people have trigger reset issues and some do not. Wolff striker springs have light strikes with some ammo. That means it don't go bang every time.

With any spring mod in the sigma you run the risk of the trigger not resetting or fail to fire. You will not have accidental discharge issues those are operator errors.

You have to think if this firearm is being used for self defence. What will you do if you are forced to use it and it don't go bang? Also if you can't put it back to "box stock" S&W won't honor the warranty.