Suggestions for cleaner/gun oil

[martybee]

The Hoppes #9 oil that comes in the kits that people have used for decades is nothing more than plain white mineral oil.

You are So... Right!

 

[CoMF]

So many choices, so many answers.

My personal choice is Break-Free CLP; it's readily available, and does an admirable job of lubricating and protecting. I've never had anything I've applied it to rust.

I even use it on squeaky door hinges, and the stuff just lasts and lasts.

 

[shawn mccarver]

I wonder exactly how Hoppes No. 9 will harm the M&P pistol frame? I understand it may be a problem with modern bluing on the revolvers, but on a polymer frame?

I personally find that hard to believe.

And, if it is true, then the M&P just became an "also ran" in any type of competition for a LE or military pistol.

I would certainly like to hear more on this.

 

[Tdaddy1979]

I was reluctant at first to buy into the hype of Froglube, Bute after using it. Everything you heard is true. An absolute miracle. Carbon wipes right off after use. And it has a pleasant minty smell.

 

[ricklee4570]

Wilsons Ultima Lube for lubricating. Slickest stuff I have ever used. He used to post his video of the ball bearing test, really good product!

 

[ricklee4570]

Well, ....... I use a lot of Break-Free CLP. To the best of my knowledge the Safariland brand does not contain any PTFE; or, at least, not the old, thick, viscous and heavy, white kind.

The former Armor brand did have some Teflon in it; but I don't think it was the same heavy, white (and mildly irritating) PTFE as the mil-spec formula (Mil-L-63460). Safariland seems to have done a very good job of revising the original San Bar Corp, and Armor Holdings' Break-Free formulas.

I, too, would recommend the new Safariland Break-Fee; and, unlike Ballistol, it doesn't get gummy or turn acidic after only 3 or 4 months on the gun. (Yes, I use Ballistol as well; but, only on guns that I intend to clean again within a month, or two.)

Another good CLP? For a carry gun that's going to be exposed to the weather, and might not get cleaned or wiped down as frequently as it should, I like FrogLube; but I'll warn you: FrogLube is an absolutely excellent protectant; but, by comparison, it's a very slow and labor-intensive cleaner.

I like FrogLube as an external protectant that can go for several months at a time without needing to be reapplied. It really does a good job of protecting metal from handling, and the weather; but it takes a little more time and effort to apply. If you're not careful with your application, excess FrogLube can buildup and become sticky - Especially in cold weather. However, I've never seen FL become acidic.

What's the drawback to using FrogLube? It doesn't get along well with petroleum-based lubricants. This is NOT necessarily a, 'big deal'; but, sooner or later, you'll probably put some oil on your EDC pistol; and that excellent FrogLube protection can, then, be easily wiped off!

For cleaning barrels - which I find myself always doing far too much of - I absolutely swear by Flitz Metal Polish. Nothing gets the crude out of a bore as well as Flitz does! Today, and after years and years of, 'field-testing' nearly every CLP on the market, the most commonly used gun maintenance products on my workbench include: Break-Free CLP, Flitz Metal Polish, FrogLube CLP, Ballistol, and Lucas Gun Oil.

At one time, or another I've tried them all; and everything's now come down to these several products. I expect that I'll, probably, stay with them, 'forever'.


NOTES: I'll offer you a few more tips.

(1) For pistol cleaning: LOSE THE JAG AND SLOTTED CLEANING ROD ENDS! You don't need them; and they'll only slow you down, and increase the amount of time and effort needed to clean a pistol.

(2) With the sole exception of field-expedient use, never use any sort of cable or flexible cleaning rod. Cleaning snakes? I own 'um; but I almost never use 'um. Instead, I prefer to throw the, 'gun crude' away rather than carry it around with me.

(3) I use a bronze brush head for all of the heavy-duty bore cleaning; and a Tynex brush for the lighter work. The 100% cotton patches get wrapped around the brush!

(4) Inside the gun I'll often use common ordinary Q-Tips, and/or a cotton patch wrapped over the end of a small, long shaft, (electronics) screwdriver.

(I've had retired - but still very serious - Drill Instructors, and/or Drill Sergeants finger a breech, then look down my gun barrel, and whistle!)

Why not use a flexible cleaning rod? I like the patchworm product. Basically a plastic flexible (think weed eater string). The patch is pulled through the barrel. Virtually no chance of harming anything. Easy to use and works well.

Also I have never had Ballistol "turn acidic". Actually the opposite, it neutralised acidic residues.

 

[walkin' trails]

I currently use Mpro7 solvent and Slip 2000 lube. I also like Militec lube. In the past, ive used products from Hoppes, Breakfree, G96, Remington, etc. the absolute best solvent I ever used was military rifle bore cleaner (RBC), but they have since claimed the stuff caused all sorts of health hazards (I've heard the same about Hoppes #9, but problems with polymer frames is new). Anyway, I now have to work a little harder to get carbon out of the bolt carrier. I've tried Frog Lube and Fireclean. While I had no problems, I haven't experienced any better results than I'm having right now. I gave the Fireclean to a friend who has a couple of suppressed ARs, but have heard if it worked as advertised.

 

[Ranger514]

I have a lot of cleaning chemicals on the shelf for use with firearms, but the two that get the most use on my handguns are M-Pro7 cleaning formula, along with BreakFree CLP on both my revolvers and semi autos. Rails get a dab of grease. I start with a wet patch, followed by a bronze brush to loosen up fouling and metal residue, and finish alternating wet/dry patches. Out of habit, I clean my guns after every trip to the firing range.

 

[Doc Mark]

Good Morning, All,

For what it's worth: I've used Hoppe's #9 solvent for more than 40 years, without a single problem. I learned, very early on, NOT to soak nickle-plated firearms in it, as it can etch, or "spider-web" the nickel. But, I've cleaned quite a few nickel-plated pistols, with no problems, whatsoever. Just don't soak them in Hoppe's. I continue to use Hoppe's to this very day, along with other, more modern cleaners and lubricants. I've been using M-Pro 7 recently, and like it very much. Seems like a great product, and it's earned my trust already. For gun grease, I still use, and swear by RIG Stainless Steel Plus P lube, as well as RIG Universal grease. Those two greases just work, pure and simple. No worries about evaporation, or hardening after a long period of time, either. All of my semi-automatic pistols are lubed with them, and I trust both far more than BreakFree, which to me, is not a great lube, compared to many others out there today.

Each to his/her own, however, and if something is working for you, keep using it. That's why I, for the most part, stick to the tried and true lubricants and protectants. Good luck, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

 

[MassiveOverkill]

Liquid Wrench with Cerflon, which is the same ingredient used in S&W's dry lube. I use it on my AR15, Shield 9mm, and wife's new BodyGuard 380. I'll never use wet lube again.

I'll take a spent shell (or snap cap) and insert it into my gun bores before spraying them so none of the lube gets in the chamber\bore.

On my AR15, my ejected shells practically land in a pile.

Cleanup and re-lube is breeze. The best part is you can use it anywhere where there are friction points and don't have to worry about over-lubing such as the firing pin. Repetitive lubings seem to have an additive effect. I use both the liquid bottle dropper as well as the spray.

 

[bob98366]

To add to the laundry list, I really like Gunzilla, which is a plant based CLP that works. For copper removal the same company makes Copperzilla, which has no ammonia and also works very well. Hard to find in gun stores, but Amazon carries them.