SWS Brass Deflector is now available

I put some scotch tape on the last 3 slots on mine, did not bend it out and went from having stove pipes every 4-5 shots to none, even when rapidly firing using the 50 round drum, except once in a while on the last shot, when the bolt was being held open. Later on though, the tape wore out on the 2nd slot to the end, and ended up back with the stove pipe after a few shots.
 
Hmmm, maybe I'll fill mine with JB weld or epoxy until the new one is available. I also found the stoppages are reduced when the aft holes are covered.
 
Yeah, remember how I wasn't having the bounce-back issue? Well, that time has gone. I got 7 bounce-backs out of 100 rds last night. Looks like my luck in this has run out, lol.
 
Just a thought...if you wanted to keep the ribs the entire length, wonder how it would work if the slots were milled at an angle (back)??? That way the shell would have no "edge" to catch.
 
What is the purpose of the slots? Why have them anyway? I would think without them, it would be more like what the Major has made for himself... and works.
 
What is the purpose of the slots? Why have them anyway? I would think without them, it would be more like what the Major has made for himself... and works.

There are slots in my DIY version - the slots in the rail ladder. :)

FWIW, the slots are necessary in the forward portion so one can see into the open chamber.

I still think the problem is the deflector to lower angle ... it needs to be 45 degrees.
 
iZ8Ab0G.jpg

Looks promising!
 
Would a solid piece with a a quick slide open design work better? I also agree horizontal slots or angled holes might work too.
 
Home from the range ...

300 rounds with the 45 degree rail and ladder section - zero stovepipes. That pretty much settles the issue for me.

Just wondering...does your rail and ladder have any "give", or is it solid...I'm wondering if the rail and ladder has just enough "give" to keep the casings from bouncing back, and it 's not the angle???
 
Just wondering...does your rail and ladder have any "give", or is it solid...I'm wondering if the rail and ladder has just enough "give" to keep the casings from bouncing back, and it 's not the angle???

It's typical flexible polymer rail ladder. And yes it does give, but I'm willing to be the angle is more the reason. Of course I could be wrong ... I was wrong a couple times in 2009. :D
 
It's typical flexible polymer rail ladder. And yes it does give, but I'm willing to be the angle is more the reason. Of course I could be wrong ... I was wrong a couple times in 2009. :D
I'm suspecting so also, however, folks seem to have better luck when they add some tape, or foam to the last 3 sections, to create a little flexability to their deflector..I haven't had the bounce-back you have experienced yet, and I added a little neoprene to the last 3 slots, so I'll keep shooting, and hope we figure it out, cause I really like how this works...
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that I am working on a complete redesign for the brass deflector.

Here is one of the newer designs I have been working on. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will have handful of prototypes to send out for final eval.

iZ8Ab0G.jpg

I am interested in this design as well. If you need testers, count me in.
 
Got to the range today. My results were not too different than other reports.

I shot 125 rounds

25 cci mini mags- no fte or ftf- felt pretty good after this first mag
25 american eagle- not good- 5 fte
50 cci stingers- 4 fte
I then did something kinda odd. I rolled up some duct tape into the
size of a pencil with the sticky side out and stuck it at the 90
degree angle. I wanted to see if the odd shape, angle and yes some
cushioning would have any effect on the angle of ejection.

Since I was by myself I couldn't really see the angle of ejection but I shot

25 more of the American eagle and only had 1 fte. So there was some effect.

So I am wondering if the solution is a slightly altered shape, not
just an altered angle as others have tried.

This is a great concept, but the ftes are unacceptable in its stock mode.

I may try again with a slightly bigger role of duct tape to see what happens.

Sorry for the long post.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Would a solid piece with a a quick slide open design work better? I also agree horizontal slots or angled holes might work too.

In the original design I was planning on having the deflector shield on a quick release but all of the options I looked would make it way too expensive.

What is the purpose of the slots? Why have them anyway? I would think without them, it would be more like what the Major has made for himself... and works.

The slots are there to allow the user to check the chamber and for cosmetic purposes... but it looks like it did not work out very well.

Yeah, remember how I wasn't having the bounce-back issue? Well, that time has gone. I got 7 bounce-backs out of 100 rds last night. Looks like my luck in this has run out, lol.

This is what is really messing with me. I have the issues one in a long while and can not get it to repeat with any consistency even with swapping out to different brass deflectors.

Hmmm, maybe I'll fill mine with JB weld or epoxy until the new one is available. I also found the stoppages are reduced when the aft holes are covered.

That is one of the things I was thinking about testing out. If you decide to try this out let me know how it goes.
 
I can not let you pay for a new one. Everyone that is having problems will receive a new one, for free, once everything is sorted out, or a refund, their choice.

Thank you very much for the kind gesture. I feel that buying a "new and improved" one will help keep you in business, and making more things! :D
 
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