The hand and the Dremel

[Steve Dee]

If it hadn't worked perfecly, I woudn't post this. Ever had the hand come up short .030-.040"? Or the ratchet show wear? Yesterday, I tackled this problem with logic. I looked at the triangular rounded engaging nub on the hand and got out my calipers. Sure enough, .033" worn down short. Long story short, I etched a line running parallel to the actual front (facing the cylinder) edge roughly .035" in from the edge leading to a new pointed pawl. I got out the Dremel and very carefully ground the long forward face of the hand shaved to the etched line and created the pointed birds head on top. Still structurely sound and reinstalled it. Perfect engagement. Problem solved. No week long hunt for a model 3 .44 Russian hand (if found at all) You have nothing to lose. The hand was getting junked anyways. Your thoughts?

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Slowly goes the hand of the surgeon.

 

[mmaher94087]

I'm not sure that I follow this. I think I read that you took .035 off the cylinder edge face of the hand at the top where it engages the ratchet on the cylinder. Stepping back, I believe the cylinder does not lock in battery by .030-.040". Since the follow up (cylinder lock) is caused by the right side of the hand pushing the left side of the ratchet to turn and lock the cylinder, how does reducing the face of the hand help? I can't see that the cylinder will lock. What am I missing?

 

[Steve Dee]

The hand is able to "lean forward" until it contacts the rear of rhe recoil shield slot thus letting the point of the birds head slip into the slot of the ratchet. It works because only the hand thickness front to back is affected. It works and it locks. Thinner silhouette but just as long. It works.

 

[Steve Dee]

And btw, the top of the pawl was not shaved at all, just the bottom radius cut beneath the tip moved upward to create a point

 

[mmaher94087]

OK. I see what you did. Thanks.