The "Plug" for a S&W J-Frame

Just wondering about disconnecting the function of the lock by grinding off the nub on the inside of the "flag" to keep the nasty thing from malfunctioning. That way we can preserve the original look of the gun and maybe have some peace of mind. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
Just wondering about disconnecting the function of the lock by grinding off the nub on the inside of the "flag" to keep the nasty thing from malfunctioning. That way we can preserve the original look of the gun and maybe have some peace of mind. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Just searching to find how to buy three more plugs; have two installed and saw your question...

I've filed the studs off my flags and though that would suffice to prevent the IL failure. While shooting a porcupine with my 329pd it locked up - was forced to go to my 360pd, also with a filed off flag stud and finished the critter. The lock still caused the gun to freeze - installed the plug and took out all the **** S&W decided to clutter the hammer area with. Seems to be fine.

If it were not for the scandium offerings, I'd never buy a S&W revolver with the internal lock. Every time I see one I think of the Clintons.
 
davemercer hit the nail on the head . Read his post carefully and ninety % of us will find ourselves . We don't need guns ,we want them .
 
Do you have any photos of the 442 with a plug coated in Black Delrin? Thanks
 
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I found the stainless plugs much easier to instal for some reason. I actually lost one of the black ones, and installed the one I bought for my 617 in my 327. It looks fine because there already are silver pins showing through on the side of the gun. One more silver circle blends right in. My 340pd is the same way, The 442 is all black, but I would still order the stainless one for it.

I think the "plug" makes a lot of sense on any gun. But it makes more sense on the j frame centenials. The flag is completely hidden, and there is no way to tell if the gun is locked or not.

Has anybody done anything about the little hole that is left open on the side of the j frames? I did not want to leave it open so I cut a small circle from a black sticker and stuck it over the holes on both of my centenials. It actually doesn't look bad, and no dust or moisture can get in now.

These plugs are a great product, and the peace of mind is worth the price. Ed
 
I opted to cut the nub off the flag and leave it installed rather than to leave the small hole. Also I found that with the flag removed I could push in on the plug and it would move inwards slightly no longer sitting flush. With the flag installed it fills the gap between the hammer and the loop of the retaining clip; now when I push in on the plug it is solid and does not move.
 
I solved the problem by selling my lock model for a non lock model, lol
 
Is there a liability thing for removing the loc incase someone picks it up and shoots it. Like a child if another child is hurt with it because you removed the loc? We have lawyers here right?

It's like removing a safety on a gun right? Are we putting the gun in a unsafe mode by tampering with the loc.

I'm not sure but I would hate to put it all on the line that I worked hard for all my life.

I like the plug idea but is it legally ok to remove the loc.
 
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Is there a liability thing for removing the loc incase someone picks it up and shoots it. Like a child if another child is hurt with it because you removed the loc?

If that ever happens with my gun, the last thing I will be concerned about is my own fate. There is no excuse for leaving a firearm unattended / unsecured for a child (or anyone) to "pick it up and shoot it", lock or no lock, period.
 
The lock is considered a storage device, not a safety. You have the obligation to make sure accidents like that don't happen.
 
You can contact John as follows:

John Whitt
P.O.Box 1305
Scott Depot, WV 25560
[email protected]

I installed a Plug in my 642 and think it looks fine. In the future, if I bought a S&W with the lock, I might just disable the lock by removing the nub that actuates it, and just leave the external part of the lock in place. The whole lock thing looks flimsy when you take it apart and I'd rather not have the potential for the revolver to malfunction.
 
I opted to cut the nub off the flag and leave it installed rather than to leave the small hole. Also I found that with the flag removed I could push in on the plug and it would move inwards slightly no longer sitting flush. With the flag installed it fills the gap between the hammer and the loop of the retaining clip; now when I push in on the plug it is solid and does not move.

So you put the plug in AND left the flag? Can't the flag still pop up and cause the gun to lock up?
 
on mine, I tried to get that flag out and when I finally pulled it out, little spring was attached to it and now I cant get it back in. I was going to modify it and then reinstall it but that little spring is a nightmare.
Also even if you are going to pull out all of the guts and install the plug, you still have to figure out how to get the lock out. I was told it takes a special tool??
Or is it a press fit and you just use a punch to drive in out?
 
flag removal

it looks to me like if you take the flag and all the guts of the IL out, it leaves a space between the hammer and frame where the flag used to be and it looks like it will allow the hammer to have more side to side wobble that it would have with the flag in place
 
Is there one available that matches the black finish on the 340PD?

Thanks

I think there is one.
DSCN1147_zps5a362aa4.jpg
 
It looks like John has stopped producing plugs. Apparently has health issues. I have a couple of prototypes made and hope to begin marketing these soon. Should John Whitt be able to resume production, I'll cease doing so and stick to making sight pushers m
 
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